Glad you guys don't mind dumb questions

[anna8297]

Okay here goes with another string of questions for you guys to answer. Try not to laugh too hard at me as you read them.

1. The salt spray that is accumulating on the top of my tank... is giong to be a problem with the lights, because it is spraying up right on them? Does that salt need to be replaced in the water? Should I just scrape it back into the tank? Isn't it taking nutrients out of the water?

2. I have 10 pounds of LR in my 10 gal tank, along with my clown and regal tang. If I move the LR into the new tank, but not the fish, is it going to cause problems in the 10 when I remove the LR? I have two Penguin HOB filters on the 10.

3. We have done some more research into the fish that we wanted to keep. So far we know that we want to add our perc and regal tang from our existing tank. We also want to add another perc, one Naso tang and one Yellow tang. The info I read on the Yellow said that you should keep at least 3 of these to keep them from picking on other fish, but that would take up quite a bit of our bioload. Is there any other way around having them be bullies? If we want to add another perc, should we do that at the same time we add our existing clown? That would mean putting in three new fish at the same time, because we don't want to the Tang to be all alone in the 10. She and the clown have become good buddies. I guess my questions boils down to, whats the suggested order for adding these fish?

TIA for all your help! You guys are great.

 

[Phyl]

I wouldn't scrape it back into the tank. Straight salt isn't good for your tank inhabitants (espeically corals, FWIW). Your fish will not like you if that hits them as you put it back!

I've never noticed salt creep causing a drop in my salinity (certainly not as fast as evap causes it to raise). Each time you do a water change check your SG (preferably with a refractometer, those hydrometers are all but worthless). Make minor adjustments through the water change process. Don't do anything fast. Fish don't like fast changes in *anything*.

If you take your bio-filter (read: live rock) out of the 10g you're going to see an ammo spike while the existing system tries to compensate. It may be able to, it may not. Move it slowly to minimize the impact (if that's possible).

What size tank are you moving to? 3 tangs in one tank is a lot of tang (but not if you're moving to a big tank). It doesn't matter if you put the two tangs in together or not. The primary concern is getting one that is "significantly" smaller than the one that you have now so that you have the best possible chance at pairing.

After your new tank is well cycled I'd add the two fish that you have (2w post Ammo & Trite = 0). Once that's done I'd add the new clown to the 10g tank (now your QT tank) and let it sit in there for 4 weeks. This will give you a chance to watch your new clown and make sure it is eating and not sick (or ich riddled) and give your main a chance to adjust to the new bioload being added to it.

Good luck and remember to take it slowly!

 

[Morticus]

1. The salt spray that is accumulating on the top of my tank... is giong to be a problem with the lights, because it is spraying up right on them? Does that salt need to be replaced in the water? Should I just scrape it back into the tank? Isn't it taking nutrients out of the water?

Is the spray directly hitting the lights? I was thinking that you needed to have something (glass/acrylic) in between the lights and water. In the Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner he said that you should scrape the salt back into the water, just make sure it doesn't hit any corals/anemones directly. HTH. (Please correct me if I'm wrong about this.)

 

[anna8297]

If I buy a new clown and an anemone together, will the anemone survive in the 10 (QT) for a couple of weeks without the high wattage lighting until I can get it into the new tank, or should I put it straight in?

 

[NewInTown]

I used to scrape it back but the fish try eating it now. I will scrape some back in
every now and then but any large amount gets removed.

 

[Phyl]

The anemone requires pristine water conditions with little variance. That isn't exactly something that a new tank can afford. The experts recommend a system that has been stable for 6mo-a year before adding an anemone. You could go ahead and add some corals once the tank is well cycled (after a month or three). That will provide the "wow" factor of an anemone without risking the animals life (as well as your other tank inhabitants-- one dead anemone can destroy a tankful if not yanked in time). Clowns don't need an anemone, they do just fine without them.

 

[Hara]

Just my comments as I am feeling philosophical this morning....no such thing as a stupid question!

hmm, I take that back, I have heard one stupid question. While standing in a LFS, I was observing the owner doing a hard sell on a couple that were interested in a large saltwater tank. He got to the part where he was explaining "Live rock", what it was used for and the general cost. (7.00) per pound. Well, by this time, the dollars were mounting up and the lady said to the store owner, "If we buy some of the smaller pieces of the rock, how fast will they grow and how big will they get?"

It was all I could do to keep from bursting as I headed for the door. I did not wait to hear the answer.

 

[ashobson]

on my tanks

I have 2 tanks set up one 54 fish only one 29 with easy care corals. On both my tanks I have glass tops I keep the water right up to the top just before it flows out the top of the tank . I never get any of the white crusty stuff I did before when I had the water level down a bit. I have a oke top with light tubs mounted rirght to it and wouldn,t want any salt on them salt tends to corrode electric stuff pretty fast I would get a glass top in between the water and light as soon as you can before you fry that light .

 

[phishead]

On both my tanks I have glass tops I keep the water right up to the top just before it flows out the top of the tank .

The glass tops work for lessening evaporation and you will not get as much salt creep because the water is not falling far or splashing. But, the glass top does decrease the exchange rate of oxygen wich is very important to marine creatures. You are much better off running the water level lower.

I use the the glass top, because I am worried about things falling in. I also use an overflow and a large sump (20 long) filled about 3/4 of the way and no top. That gives it more surface area.

salt tends to corrode electric stuff pretty fast I would get a glass top in between the water and light as soon as you can before you fry that light .

Very Correct on this one. definitely do not want to buy new lights, or fish glass out of your tank!

 

[ashobson]

what

The water should be getting plenty of o2 from the skimmer and sump by keeping the water up you get less splash this keeps the white crusty stuff down I never have any white crusty stuff have had the 29 gal going for 15 years I bought the 54 gal used set up with one large fish made agistments my way and now the levels are great the fish are swimming and eating growing just fine I don"t see anyone out of air in there

 

[phishead]

Easy, use a period once in a while.

I did explain that if you were using a sump it would be ok to run the glass as you and I do. You are absolutely correct also, but Anna452384167 did not no that you were running a sump with a skimmer and if she ran the water level that high with a glass top, she may run into o2 problems.