New water for new tank?

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miesenjr

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
49
Location
wayne, PA
I have run my new salt water tank for 4 days with tap water to check for leaks, all has been sorted out. I was planning on emptying the fresh water (from the tap, has A tds of 110ppm) and re filling with RO/DI water. A LFS said that i dont have too because I am not putting any coral in,and i can just add the salt to the water in the tank. The tank is a180 gallons with a 40 gal sump. It will take 4 or 5 days for my ro/DI unit to produce that much water. What do you think?
 
Depends on what you want to start with. If you're happy with the tap water, add the salt and move to Ro/DI during your water changes. If you want to start with pure water, drain and refill. Honestly 110 doesn't seem 'that' bad but it's a personal choice.
 
Why not just start off right ,and use RO/DI ?
As mentioned it will give you algea issues . And will take a bit of time to remove it all as this will be in your LR , sand and every where ... It is just easier to use RO/DI from the start and eliminate the fuel from the algea from the beginning .. and a TDS of 110 is too high for a tank ... so you are almost 99% that you will have algea issues in it ;)
 
thanks,
I figured this to be the case. I have the 50 gal per day RO/DI unit. I might as well start off with the best water conditions I can. I just know it is going to take days to fill! Im going to get 30' of hose and put it in the tank with my auto shut off.
 
why not buy some and fill some with your system it will make it easier on your filters and help you to speed along say 50/50 or 60/40 etc
 
I have 60 gal worth of 5 gal buckets in my truck now. when I finnigh work today I am going to speed this up by oging to the LFS. The tank was only up 2" overnight. I will go crazy watching the slow progress. what do you pay for 5 gallons of R/O water?
 
'and a TDS of 110 is too high for a tank'

Average TDS in a US metropolitan area us 300-400 ppm. That reading does not mean the concentration is all nitrate/phosphate or silicates. Testing is the only way to determine that.

Although I don't, lots of people use tap water and have minimal if any algae issues. I venture a guess that some use RO/DI and still fight algae issues as well.

As I said, I would consider a TDS of 110 a great number for municipal tap water, not knowing what the levels of nitrate/phosphates and silicates are
 
No point in starting with pristine water in a new tank. The tank is going to crash anyway, that's the point of cycling. Add your water treatment stuff if you have not already and some salt.
 
I have 60 gal worth of 5 gal buckets in my truck now. when I finnigh work today I am going to speed this up by oging to the LFS. The tank was only up 2" overnight. I will go crazy watching the slow progress. what do you pay for 5 gallons of R/O water?


One of the shops around here charges a buck a gallon for R/O salt water. Your experience may vary.
 
As mentioned it will give you algea issues

There is no guarantee that tap is going to have algae issues. I have seen just as many R/O tanks with algae issues as tap tanks. ****, 12 years ago everyone used tap water and things worked great. Back then I ran 150 gallon FOWLR tank with nothing more than 2 power heads, an under gravel filter, and an over the back filter. A lot has changed and evolved over the years but that does not mean old school is bad, just different.

just my $.02
 
I found ro water fo $.50 a gal. and bought 80 gal. to expidite the fill time. like you in the past I used tap water, from a well and always had the algae in the begenning, but it always worked itself out. and i have had the same results with ro/di water as well. I expect the same this time around, I just like the idea of knowing no other harmful metals or chemicals are in the water to start.
 
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