What do I have here???

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WTHreleased

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jul 21, 2020
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4
Can anyone tell me what I have here and maybe guide me to a resource to learn more?

Got this for free today on Cragslist. I believe it is a reef/saltwater setup. I found the canisters online, but don't really understand what it is talking about. I have only done freshwater.

Canisters are Build Reef Supply:

BRS 6 Stage Deluxe Reverse Osmosis/Deionization System - 75 GPD

BRS Dual Deionization Canisters
 

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The small aquarium part is a sump filtration unit. The other is a water filter, specially a reverse osmosis/deionization unit. The cans are filter units. The 2 pcs work independent of each other, and you don't have to use either one (or use 1 or both) The ro/di unit is expensive to buy. You got a good deal. Free is always good, haha!
 
The BRS brand (Bulk Reef Supply) ro/di system you got is still offered for sale on their website. It retails for $289.99. Go to Bulk reef supply and you can read about it
 
Thank you, I did find the stuff online, I just don't know if it is something that could or should be used for freshwater. I figured out the sump, by the tank has bottom holes drilled and I can't find much for that setup. And inside the tank is a chamber that I am not sure what should go inside.
Hpxp9SdshXn8BLyb9
 
Aaahhh... I had read/watched a lot, but all the overflows were off the back or side of the aquarium. So mine is just inside the aquarium and drains through the bottom. Not sure if I like it as it takes up a significant amount of my tanks volume. Wondering if I can run two pipes up, one for the intake and the other outtake and remove the large structure?

Thank you so much, that was really helpful.

I should have finished the video before replying. He goes on to explain the stand pipe and the overflow panels. Great stuff.
 
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You could run it with the pipework exposed, you would just have to make sure your outflow pipe was set at the height you want the water level to be at. With an overflow box the water line is set by the holes in the box and the outflow pipe is a bit below that. Personally i would prefer to have them hidden and protected by the overflow box, but thats up to you. The box might take up a little room, but putting equipment like heaters in the sump saves you tank space.

You could just omit the sump and get some glass cut and silicone seal over the drilled holes and use the tank with a traditional filter.
 
You could run it with the pipework exposed, you would just have to make sure your outflow pipe was set at the height you want the water level to be at. With an overflow box the water line is set by the holes in the box and the outflow pipe is a bit below that. Personally i would prefer to have them hidden and protected by the overflow box, but thats up to you. The box might take up a little room, but putting equipment like heaters in the sump saves you tank space.

You could just omit the sump and get some glass cut and silicone seal over the drilled holes and use the tank with a traditional filter.
I bought a 125g once that was drilled in the back, didn't want a sump so I got glass cut and siliconed well and installed pieces over the holes. Used a waterproof glass approved epoxy to put the glass on, then sealed well around the edges and back with silicone. Had it for over a year with no issues. I personally would want thicker glass than I used if the holes had been at the bottom, for a 125g that is. A smaller tank would have substantially less hydraulic pressure on the glass at the bottom
 
Aaahhh... I had read/watched a lot, but all the overflows were off the back or side of the aquarium. So mine is just inside the aquarium and drains through the bottom. Not sure if I like it as it takes up a significant amount of my tanks volume. Wondering if I can run two pipes up, one for the intake and the other outtake and remove the large structure?

Thank you so much, that was really helpful.

I should have finished the video before replying. He goes on to explain the stand pipe and the overflow panels. Great stuff.
You can remove the overflow box with a razor blade. You can also plumb a canister to the box, just drill some holes lower in the box to avoid accidently running your canister dry if the water level drops. I'm like Aiken, I like the hidden pipes etc that the box allows. If you run a regular canister on the box, you can also put your heater inside it if there's room. I'm currently setting up a 150g like that
 
Not something ive ever done personally, but I assume that as you trust silicone to put the tank together it should be ok to seal a piece of glass over the drilled holes?
I bought a 125g once that was drilled in the back, didn't want a sump so I got glass cut and siliconed well and installed pieces over the holes. Used a waterproof glass approved epoxy to put the glass on, then sealed well around the edges and back with silicone. Had it for over a year with no issues. I personally would want thicker glass than I used if the holes had been at the bottom, for a 125g that is. A smaller tank would have substantially less hydraulic pressure on the glass at the bottom
 
Thank you, I did find the stuff online, I just don't know if it is something that could or should be used for freshwater. I figured out the sump, by the tank has bottom holes drilled and I can't find much for that setup. And inside the tank is a chamber that I am not sure what should go inside.
Hpxp9SdshXn8BLyb9
Ppl that keep freshwater fish they want to breed like discus, require ro/di water that's very low in ph and soft. For regular freshwater fish keeping its not necessary, more of a convenience to remove chemicals from the tap water. If your not gonna use it or the sump, you could sell them separately on CL and get you a little spending money to finish out your setup
 
Not something ive ever done personally, but I assume that as you trust silicone to put the tank together it should be ok to seal a piece of glass over the drilled holes?
Yeah, it's working great, but like I said, these drilled holes were on the back, near the top, so not much water pressure on them. I liberally used e6000 glue to attach the glass, then let that cure for 72 hours before sealing it.
 
The small aquarium part is a sump filtration unit. The other is a water filter, specially a reverse osmosis/deionization unit. The cans are filter units. The 2 pcs work independent of each other, and you don't have to use either one (or use 1 or both) The ro/di unit is expensive to buy. You got a good deal. Free is always good, haha!

You're being kind, Charley. The OP made a killing on this deal! The idea of getting this hardware without having to match/source it a piece at a time is huge. Points for Craigslist. (y)
 
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