Why are my fish dying!

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aarongalvan

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jul 18, 2009
Messages
68
Location
New Orleans (Westbank)
Okay...
My 55g tank that has been up and running for about 5 months now with no problems has been giving me problems.

I've had one dalmation molly die, two adult white mollies and 5 1 mo. Old fry, and my other white molly is not looking good.

I don't understand.... I do weekly water changes!!!! My water is in perfect condition... I keep the tank about 76 degrees, i don't over feed!

Please help.

The only thing i've don't different is add a few pieces of live plant (anacharis), and have used fritz instead of prime for dechlor on water changes.
 
A few basic questions:

What type of filtration system do you use?
How often do you clean it & what do you do/what media do you change?
What are your current water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)?
What are your tap water parameters?

I have a planted 55 w/ livebearers. I noticed when I used Amquel/Novaqua that my fish didn't like it, they would freak out for a while. I read some others had issues as well. I switched to Prime. Slime coat should occur naturally, if it doesn't, you need to isolate and treat, otherwise it's extra gunk in your tank water that you don't need.
 
I'm @ work now, so I can't give the parameters. I will post them tonight. I think thats the problem... FRITZ.

I'm going back to prime. I never had this issue until I switched to FRITZ.
When I do a water change I do a gravel vac and it's normally a 35 - 40% water change. I have a Whisper HOB EX70 on my 55g and a small powerhead, and a bubblewand at the back on the bottom of the tank. Once a month I take out 1 of the filter media cartridges and swish it around in some tank water. I remove as much junk as possible. I don't ever strip it in Tap Water....

Thats pretty much what I do.
 
I use prime , I've lost 2 silver mollies and the fry seem to come and go none last to long,so i'm curios to what people say,still have some fry and i moved my bottom feeders to the tank to help clean up.
 
I have an EX20 on my 10g fry tank. It gets to the point where the water doesn't even flow through it anymore. I have to take it off the tank, take apart and clean off the impeller. If you've never done this, that could be your problem. You need to do this at least once a month and periodically check to make sure the water is flowing through it at a decent volume. Also, you need to clean out the area where the filter media cartridges sit. Mulm can build up here and it needs to be removed.

What I do is take out some tank water, or some freshly dechlorinated water, and put all the filter media in it. Then I remove the filter from the tank and put it in my slop sink in the laundry room. Using an old toothbrush, I clean out the inside of the filter with hot water, as hot as my hands can tolerate.

As for the impeller assembly, it comes off of the filter housing, and comes right apart if you work it at the seam. grab the impeller itself and pull it out. At this point you may want to have a drain plug in, in case the little rubber knobs on the ends of the shaft pop off. You don't want to lose them. If they stick in the holes, that's fine, just don't lose them. Take the toothbrush and gently scrub the impeller and magnet under running water. Then I use the toothbrush to get inside the impeller assembly and scrub out anything I can get to (gunk builds up in there) and run it under high-pressure warm/hot water to get all the gunk out. A point that you need to get into is the hole where the magnet goes for the impeller, just stick the toothbrush in at an angle so the bristles get in there, and twist around a few times.

Put it all back together, set on tank, plug in and insert all your media.

FYI on the bio-filters, you can rinse those in tank water every time you do a water change. The bacteria sticks to the surface very well, I just dip a couple times to get any chunks off, which there never are.

I don't use the carbon filters on mine, but you are supposed to replace those every couple weeks or so. I use a bag of Seachem Purigen instead.

I also have a sponge on the intake, for my fry, so mine gets gunkier on the inside, but this level of cleaning in general will ensure good water flow over the bio-media and keep the filter free of gunk, which can cause problems. At least is causes problems in UGF and canister filters. Any filtration system needs a good cleaning every now and then, it depends on the bio-load of the tank, capacity of filter, plant life, frequency of feeding, etc.

I would test the water to make sure you don't have a Nitrate problem (may be due to filter gunk buildup) and then clean the filter no matter what, just so you know how to do it, and can see how gunky it got in 5 months, so you have an idea of how often you need to clean it.

Hope this helps!
 
I use prime , I've lost 2 silver mollies and the fry seem to come and go none last to long,so i'm curios to what people say,still have some fry and i moved my bottom feeders to the tank to help clean up.
I have swordtails, mollies, guppies, and platies. I have given away over 400 fry. I have had none died from anything other than stupidity (getting stuck to filter intake, etc). So I must be doing something right!
 
Thanks... I will do that tonight. As of right now I am down to ONE dalmation molly and one black molly. I also have a couple of B.A. Tetras and a couple of Hi Fin Tetras.

I did a water test a few minutes ago, and found that my pH level is down quite a bit... 6.0

I know that livebearing fish require nuetral to slightly alkaline. How do I raise my pH level.

Please respond quickly...

I don't want to lose anymore fish.
 
Hmmm....6.0 is very low. At that level, the bacteria slow conversion of ammonia, actually I think I read somewhere that it stops below 6.0. This could be another problem. You might want to test your KH (carbonate hardness), this is a measure of how well your water holds it's pH level. If it is very low, then you may need to add a buffer to increase KH, then watch the pH level over the course of a couple weeks and see if that made a difference. The key here is to know where the problem lies, then change one thing and watch what changing that one thing does over a length of time. Don't go buying pH up that'll mess things up.

First thing I would do is a full water test of your tap water and tank water. Then, for good measure, take a few gallons of tap water and let them sit in a bucket for 24 hrs with an airstone or power head or something to agitate the surface of the water, as it would in your tank, then test the water and see what's happening. Then test at 48, 72, until you get a picture of what's going on.

Overfeeding can also cause a serious drop in pH. Fish can go for up to 3 days without food. But like I said, change ONE THING and watch the difference, so if you do a PWC and clean your filter and cut back on feedings, then do your water tests on the tap water as described above, and do daily tests on the tank water (also do one RIGHT before your PWC), you can watch what happens to your tap / tank water as a result of WCs and feeding.

Try the simple solution first...
 
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