To Nano or not to Nano.. That is the question!

[ruffn82]

I have kept freshwater aquariums all my life and I am looking to jump into saltwater. After months of research, I need to ask some straight up questions that pertain to my specific situation.

I am in college and the next four years will be full of moves and very unpredictable in terms of living space. Also, as a college student, my time and cash are both limited.

I believe (please tell me if I am wrong!) that by getting a 4-8gal nano tank with hardy fish and hardy soft corals, I will be able to make easy moves each school year/summer and reduce my weekly water changes from multiple trips with a 5gal bucket to very simple, small changes and top offs. Depending on where I move, trips with a 5gal bucket could become pretty ridiculous. Also, moving a huge tank and stand each time I move living situations is not something I want to worry about.

My biggest concerns, I believe, would be temperature, vacation and actual moves. My current house temp fluctuates between 68-78 on a daily basis. How badly will this effect things in a nano? Also, how stressful/damaging to the live stock will it be to move the tank every 6 months for the next few years? Is an automatic feeder and having my tanks lights on a timer, enough to keep a nano alive for two weeks in my absence?

My LFS has a 4gal Aqueon Evolve AIO that is flourishing with a small anemone and a clown. It seems to be the cheapest tank that will support soft corals. I was thinking about doing the 8gal version of that tank with:

-Polyps
-A mushroom or two
-One more soft coral
-True Perc
-Randal's Goby
-Hopefully a bubble anemone one day!

Lastly now that you know what I intend to keep, if I am diligent about water levels in the first month or so and I cycle correctly, will water levels continue to be a burden condemning me to constant testing in such a small tank or will things stabilize.

I've seen many of these questions answered, but not with all the added factors added together. Please tell me if you think this is a possibility or if there is a different route I should take.

All advice, constructive criticism etc. is welcomed!

Thanks!!

 

[chris1610]

I have kept freshwater aquariums all my life and I am looking to jump into saltwater. After months of research, I need to ask some straight up questions that pertain to my specific situation.

I am in college and the next four years will be full of moves and very unpredictable in terms of living space. Also, as a college student, my time and cash are both limited.

I believe (please tell me if I am wrong!) that by getting a 4-8gal nano tank with hardy fish and hardy soft corals, I will be able to make easy moves each school year/summer and reduce my weekly water changes from multiple trips with a 5gal bucket to very simple, small changes and top offs. Depending on where I move, trips with a 5gal bucket could become pretty ridiculous. Also, moving a huge tank and stand each time I move living situations is not something I want to worry about.

My biggest concerns, I believe, would be temperature, vacation and actual moves. My current house temp fluctuates between 68-78 on a daily basis. How badly will this effect things in a nano? Also, how stressful/damaging to the live stock will it be to move the tank every 6 months for the next few years? Is an automatic feeder and having my tanks lights on a timer, enough to keep a nano alive for two weeks in my absence?

My LFS has a 4gal Aqueon Evolve AIO that is flourishing with a small anemone and a clown. It seems to be the cheapest tank that will support soft corals. I was thinking about doing the 8gal version of that tank with:

-Polyps
-A mushroom or two
-One more soft coral
-True Perc
-Randal's Goby
-Hopefully a bubble anemone one day!

Lastly now that you know what I intend to keep, if I am diligent about water levels in the first month or so and I cycle correctly, will water levels continue to be a burden condemning me to constant testing in such a small tank or will things stabilize.

I've seen many of these questions answered, but not with all the added factors added together. Please tell me if you think this is a possibility or if there is a different route I should take.

All advice, constructive criticism etc. is welcomed!

Thanks!!

Hi and welcome to the marine world my friend!

a nano tank is always very easy to move. They appear to be easier to take care of. The truth is, well It isn't. Small marine tanks need to be topped off a lot more frequently than their large counterparts. Small volume of water = More battles with water parameters getting out of hand.

With large marine tanks, the only hard part is moving and they cost more. The water parameters are easier to take care of and you can have a much broader selection of fish, and inverts.

With a vacation of 2weeks the nano tank will most likely evaporate about a quarter or more of it's volume, unless you purchase an ato system (auto top off). The feeding should be fine. Although if you don't have a protein skimmer than you might have some nitrates. This is fine for the fish, but not good AT ALL for the corals.

If you don't have enough money for the protein skimmer, then at least add in a little submersible pump. Or the much better alternative of a DIY sump. Very easy and you only need a small size sump for a nano tank.

Your stock seems good for the 8gal. If after reading this you chose to up-size your tank, then here are some popular non-nano tank sizes with some stocking Ideas for you; Assuming you'd like a reef.

30gal:
3x blue/green chromis
2x firefish(purple or regular
and maybe a dwarf angel if you feel lucky. Hahaha
4x turbo snails
1x long spined urchin
1x emerald crab
Not familiar with many corals so you can decide on that one.

55gal:
5x blue/green chromis
1xfairy or carpenters wrasse
2x clarkii or percula clowns
3x citron gobies
similiar clean up crew with larger numbers, and your choice of coral

75gal:
5x blue green chromis
1 flasher wrasse
a pair of clowns (not tomato or maroon)
1x foxface

Hope I helped, let me know on your thoughts and decisions, and good luck!

 

[ruffn82]

Awesome response, thank you! I'm curious, though, what kinds of battle might I face with the water peramiters? With a tank that size, how often should I be checking levels and is there anything I can do to stabilize things a bit?

 

[chris1610]

Awesome response, thank you! I'm curious, though, what kinds of battle might I face with the water peramiters? With a tank that size, how often should I be checking levels and is there anything I can do to stabilize things a bit?

Think of it this way. Nitrates are produced by waste, correct? If you have a small amount of water and there is waste there is a higher nitrate:water ratio.
If you have a large amount of water the nitrates are less concentrated. You can fight these nitrates by having a large amount of live rock, filtration and a protein skimmer. Note that these things are not cheap. You actually will definitely need a protein skimmer if you don't want to do large amounts of pwc's all the time. Protein skimmers cost a LOT, even for a small tank. You should check these parameters around every 72hrs while cycling(depending on point of cycle you are at) and maybe once every 5-7days once it is established with good filtration.

For a larger tank, the less constant maintenance you will need to do and more time to enjoy it. Then again it is not as versatile as the nano tank. All comes down to how you go about moving your tank and maintaining it.

IMO if I were at college I would get a small tank but not a nano tank. To be honest for you situation a 30gal looks perfect for you. It is easy to move just like the nano tanks, but has the stability of a larger tank. Still cheap and efficient, while having much more stocking possibilities than a nano tank.

Let me know all the possible details of your tank, like filtration, size, stock, etc. I'll give you some constructive criticism, advice, help, anything you need, let me know. Thanks bro.

 

[chris1610]

Forgot to mention the temp will be fine as long as you have an aqua one heater or something along those lines.

 

[Audiew]

Awesome response, thank you! I'm curious, though, what kinds of battle might I face with the water peramiters? With a tank that size, how often should I be checking levels and is there anything I can do to stabilize things a bit?

To give you another idea of stocking lists. This is what I have in my biocube 29 hqi and I am also in college so I know what you mean about the constant moves.

1-firefish
2- banggai cardinals
1 blue watchman goby
1 maroon clown
Several types of zoa's
Hairy mushrooms
Purple war coral
Green star polyps
Yellow polyps
Frogspawn
2 clams
1 emerald crab
Several types of snails
1 sand sifting star

 

[ruffn82]

Thanks Chris, I will keep all of that in mind as I move closer to the decision date!

To give you another idea of stocking lists. This is what I have in my biocube 29 hqi and I am also in college so I know what you mean about the constant moves.

1-firefish
2- banggai cardinals
1 blue watchman goby
1 maroon clown
Several types of zoa's
Hairy mushrooms
Purple war coral
Green star polyps
Yellow polyps
Frogspawn
2 clams
1 emerald crab
Several types of snails
1 sand sifting star

That seems really well stocked! Looking at your list, it makes me wonder if it would be possible to add another fish to my current list for the 8gal?

I did read a post somewhere that talked about how, in the same tank I mentioned, he was able to keep a goby, clown and I think the last one was a chromi. His reasoning was that they occupied different levels of the water column. The clown and chromi shared some space, but the clown stuck to either it's host coral or anemone. I was weary of adding a third fish to the 8gal, but is it possible if I use this other guys logic?

Even if the fish could stand each other socially, would the bioload just be too unmanageable in such a small tank?

 

[ruffn82]

Also, I am now thinking about the Fluval Edge 12gal! Any thoughts?

 

[Audiew]

Also, I am now thinking about the Fluval Edge 12gal! Any thoughts?

I'm really not familiar with that tank but I would say if your thinking 12 might as well go with a 14 biocube. Just my opinion, I love my biocube. With what you were talking about with stocking to different parts of the water column, it is a good idea to do that but the total stocking list needs to be thought of as the bioload that your tank can handle. Not only that but with a 14 you will be able to have more options towards your stock. Just my thinking. If there is anything else feel free to ask. Here are a few shots of my tank just to give you am idea.

 

[chris1610]

+1 to the biocube 14gal. Much better for sustaining corals, inverts etc. Fir a 14gal stock it to what you think you can handle (bio-load wise).

IMO, I would stock the 14gal with:

2x true percs
3x clown gobies
And one volitans lion when you don't want your fish anymore hahaha

 

[Nu-Nu the eel]

I have kept freshwater aquariums all my life and I am looking to jump into saltwater. After months of research, I need to ask some straight up questions that pertain to my specific situation.

I am in college and the next four years will be full of moves and very unpredictable in terms of living space. Also, as a college student, my time and cash are both limited.

I believe (please tell me if I am wrong!) that by getting a 4-8gal nano tank with hardy fish and hardy soft corals, I will be able to make easy moves each school year/summer and reduce my weekly water changes from multiple trips with a 5gal bucket to very simple, small changes and top offs. Depending on where I move, trips with a 5gal bucket could become pretty ridiculous. Also, moving a huge tank and stand each time I move living situations is not something I want to worry about.

My biggest concerns, I believe, would be temperature, vacation and actual moves. My current house temp fluctuates between 68-78 on a daily basis. How badly will this effect things in a nano? Also, how stressful/damaging to the live stock will it be to move the tank every 6 months for the next few years? Is an automatic feeder and having my tanks lights on a timer, enough to keep a nano alive for two weeks in my absence?

My LFS has a 4gal Aqueon Evolve AIO that is flourishing with a small anemone and a clown. It seems to be the cheapest tank that will support soft corals. I was thinking about doing the 8gal version of that tank with:

-Polyps
-A mushroom or two
-One more soft coral
-True Perc
-Randal's Goby
-Hopefully a bubble anemone one day!

Lastly now that you know what I intend to keep, if I am diligent about water levels in the first month or so and I cycle correctly, will water levels continue to be a burden condemning me to constant testing in such a small tank or will things stabilize.

I've seen many of these questions answered, but not with all the added factors added together. Please tell me if you think this is a possibility or if there is a different route I should take.

All advice, constructive criticism etc. is welcomed!

Thanks!!

Im sorry that you were given false hope but those fish wont do well in an 8 gallon. You will need around 20 gallons (give or take a few) for the perc and goby. They get bigger then you think.

 

[Nu-Nu the eel]

+1 to the biocube 14gal. Much better for sustaining corals, inverts etc. Fir a 14gal stock it to what you think you can handle (bio-load wise).

IMO, I would stock the 14gal with:

2x true percs
3x clown gobies
And one volitans lion when you don't want your fish anymore hahaha

And i hope you were joking about the lion, either way though a pair of percs will need at least a 20

 

[ruffn82]

Any suggestions then? Recently, I have been looking at a Yellow Head Jawfish and some Wrasse. Haven't found much on Wrasse other than the 6-Line, are they a viable option or no? (Flasher, Fairy, Pygmy)

 

[chris1610]

And i hope you were joking about the lion, either way though a pair of percs will need at least a 20

Lol, obviously I was joking about the volitans.

But, the perc's do not necessarily need a 20gal as long as you keep a good filtration system and pwc schedule, you should be fine. IMO the 14gal biocube has the footprint for a pair of clowns, you just have to keep a good maintenance schedule. Then again every is entitled to there own opinion.

And ruffn, you won't be able to keep any type of wrasse in anything less than 29gals. IMO I really suggest you get a 30gal. There is so much more options using this size tank; Although as previously stated, you are entitled to your own opinion.

Have you decided the tank size you'll be using?

 

[ruffn82]

I know that 20/30gal isn't that much in the scheme of things, especially to all of you, but I really can't be hefting around anything that takes more than one person to carry. Also, it would be more expensive to fill that space with rock/sand/coral. In my opinion, it makes the most sense for monetary reasons and practicality, to get the smallest tank I can settle for.

Originally, I fell in love with the Aqueon Evolve 4gal that is set up at my LFS with a small clown and anemone. I convinced myself to get the 8gal because it still fits on my desk, but now that I am thinking about the 12gal and everyone is suggesting 14->20->30 gal tanks, I wonder where it will stop haha. I currently have a 30gal and it is way too much for my space, which is what I am trying to get away from.

I considered the Bio Cube, but it is more than twice the cost of the Evolve 8 so I am currently thinking about settling for the 8 with the stocking I listed before and a "good wc schedule"

Paycheck comes next week so I'll have a definite answer then!

 

[Beengirl]

As far as your water parameters, the one that wasn't mentioned is specific gravity. When your water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind and your salinity increase. Lose too much water to evaporation, and your salinity can go high enough to kill your fish. Because of that, leaving your tank for 2 weeks during school breaks would not be a good idea, even if there is an auto feeder. Getting a smaller one that you could take home with you during breaks might be better in your situation.

 

[Audiew]

I know that 20/30gal isn't that much in the scheme of things, especially to all of you, but I really can't be hefting around anything that takes more than one person to carry. Also, it would be more expensive to fill that space with rock/sand/coral. In my opinion, it makes the most sense for monetary reasons and practicality, to get the smallest tank I can settle for.

Originally, I fell in love with the Aqueon Evolve 4gal that is set up at my LFS with a small clown and anemone. I convinced myself to get the 8gal because it still fits on my desk, but now that I am thinking about the 12gal and everyone is suggesting 14->20->30 gal tanks, I wonder where it will stop haha. I currently have a 30gal and it is way too much for my space, which is what I am trying to get away from.

I considered the Bio Cube, but it is more than twice the cost of the Evolve 8 so I am currently thinking about settling for the 8 with the stocking I listed before and a "good wc schedule"

Paycheck comes next week so I'll have a definite answer then!

Well if your budget only allows for an 8 gallon then get the 8!

 

[ruffn82]

As far as your water parameters, the one that wasn't mentioned is specific gravity. When your water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind and your salinity increase. Lose too much water to evaporation, and your salinity can go high enough to kill your fish. Because of that, leaving your tank for 2 weeks during school breaks would not be a good idea, even if there is an auto feeder. Getting a smaller one that you could take home with you during breaks might be better in your situation.

Is it possible to heavily reduce evaporation by putting on a lid and using some low profile tape to cover holes?

 

[Beengirl]

A lid will slow evaporation, but not stop it.