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Old 08-21-2012, 10:00 PM   #11
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I agree that a good CUC alone won't be able to get all of that under control, you'll have to remove as much as you can yourself, but then add a good sized cUC to prevent it from happening again.
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #12
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+1 on the lettuce nudibranch. But you asked about the filter. If the bio wheel is running slow, something maybe impeding it. Check it out and make sure. You could change to a hob filter that is rated double your tank size and use a chemi pure instead of the cartridges. That would give you more carbon surface area. The canisters are notorious trate factories, so IMO I would,skip it. All suggestions are good, snails, crabs, scrubbing and whatnot. Also, you really,only need to feed every 2-3 days. Cut down on the feeding and get the hair algae under control. Nuke the aptasia, it's pretty easy with either the lemon juice, or aptasia x. Don't give up, you'll thank yourself in a few months. The frogspawn is a beauty!!! Aside from the hair algae, you have a nice looking setup.

Head up,high, and kick hair algaes butt!!!!

Good luck!!!!
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:17 PM   #13
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I would go for the protein skimmer before I getting rid of the bio wheel. If you can do both, that's even better! Are you using tap water?
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:23 PM   #14
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Def scrub excess algae off & get good CUC in place. I'm a big protein skimmer proponent, personally I run two on my tank and therefore I recommend getting a good one going. I would ditch the biowheel and if you possibly can add a sump with a Refugium. Using a Refugium wil allow the macroalgae in there to use some of the nutrients causing your algae outbreak up. Also try a media reactor with gfo. Of course all that preceeded by cutting down feedings & doing PWC.
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:27 AM   #15
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Your frogspawn is gorgeous and so is your clown! Don't give up on it. It may seem like you'll never get it under control but I believe you will. I've seen people ask about your source water. RODI (reverse osmosis/distilled) is recommended because it doesnt have all the stuff in it that tap water has in it. So if you aren't already using RODI water I recommend giving it a try.

You'll kick that algae's butt! We are all rooting for you!
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:24 AM   #16
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Like everyone has said, hang in there.. Suck up the junk from the sandbed when you do your water changes. The biowheel is probably slow because it may be getting dirty.

A clean up crew will help, also cut way down on feeding. Two fish dont need much food. The excess nutrients feed the algae. As for the GFO it needs to have flow through it, not just around it. It will work out bud.
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:21 PM   #17
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This hobby can be very discouraging when you have problems like this and you dont get or have the information that you need. Hang in there, we are here to help.

First off the purple thing your seeing is and Aiptasia, it is a pest anemone and there are many ways to kill them here is a link to help you out with that.

Reefkeeping Magazine - Reefkeeping 101

It appears your being over run with hair algae. First lets get some test results, lets have em. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, ph. Likely you will get a low or 0 reading for nitrates and phosphates, this is becuase the algae is binding these nutrients making them unavailable to testing. Nitrates and phosphates are what your really fighting, not the algae itself as much.

First you need to determine where your excess nitrates and phosphates are coming from. You stated over feeding, that would be one source. Are you using tap? How often do you clean and change filter pads? The biowheel should be taken off as its only trapping organics and constantly producing nitrates.

Chemi-pure is not a GFO in the any real sense, you would be best served by spending about 40 bucks on a reactor and running actual Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO) in the reactor. Also step up your water changes and pick as much algae as you can to removed the nutrients. Getting that protein skimmer working would help remove some organics before they begin breaking down.

Adding creatures to eat the algae is ok, however, the algae problem will not go away if you resort to just this. The nutrients these animals consume are excreted and taken up again by algae. Removing these nutrients is the only solution to the problem.

Here are a few links and articles dealing with nuisance algae etc.

Green Hair Algae by Stephen Hopple - Reefkeeping.com

Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schism
This hobby can be very discouraging when you have problems like this and you dont get or have the information that you need. Hang in there, we are here to help.

First off the purple thing your seeing is and Aiptasia, it is a pest anemone and there are many ways to kill them here is a link to help you out with that.

Reefkeeping Magazine - Reefkeeping 101

It appears your being over run with hair algae. First lets get some test results, lets have em. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, ph. Likely you will get a low or 0 reading for nitrates and phosphates, this is becuase the algae is binding these nutrients making them unavailable to testing. Nitrates and phosphates are what your really fighting, not the algae itself as much.

First you need to determine where your excess nitrates and phosphates are coming from. You stated over feeding, that would be one source. Are you using tap? How often do you clean and change filter pads? The biowheel should be taken off as its only trapping organics and constantly producing nitrates.

Chemi-pure is not a GFO in the any real sense, you would be best served by spending about 40 bucks on a reactor and running actual Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO) in the reactor. Also step up your water changes and pick as much algae as you can to removed the nutrients. Getting that protein skimmer working would help remove some organics before they begin breaking down.

Adding creatures to eat the algae is ok, however, the algae problem will not go away if you resort to just this. The nutrients these animals consume are excreted and taken up again by algae. Removing these nutrients is the only solution to the problem.

Here are a few links and articles dealing with nuisance algae etc.

Green Hair Algae by Stephen Hopple - Reefkeeping.com

Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
+1

I agree because, well I agree

In all seriousness great advice as always, much better put than I.
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:13 PM   #19
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Seems like most of the advice has been given out. I had a hair algae outbreak just like yours in my 55 reef. Killed off 500 bucks worth of coral. I was quite upset. I kept going with my water changes. Scrubbing as much as I could off and manually removing it prior to water changes. I added a lawnmower blenny who went to town on the stuff. Helped me out since I work many turnover shifts and couldn't increase water changes and scrubbing.

I didn't notice if you are running ro/di, that would help if you aren't. Def reduce feedings. Two or 3 times a week is more than enough. That will reduce the nutrients being put into the water column. I believe Schism stated about GFO. I run GFO and Purigen on my reef system in a BRS dual reactor. It helped, might be something to look into. Keep at it and things will get better, trust me.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:27 PM   #20
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+1 on the reactor with rowaphos. +1 on chemi pure elite. I had the same problem. I bought a phosban reactor and problem solved. I put enough bags of chemi pure elite, I run my sump with my rowa phos and miracle mudd. No problems and I have not done a water change in 1 month now. All levels are good. I also have a swc150 protein skimmer.
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