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Old 07-14-2014, 09:05 PM   #11
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Well, baked baking soda which gives you soda ash. Still more complicated than that, but it raises pH.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:25 PM   #12
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If you plan to have fish only with live rocks for a start, you need not have to worry about those stuff mentioned for now. You will learn as you go along when you are ready for corals.
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:29 PM   #13
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I've already got some kenya tree coral.

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Old 07-15-2014, 11:08 PM   #14
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Looks like you need a lot of research to do. I'm sure you are aware that it is not a cheap hobby.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:12 PM   #15
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That would be why I'm here

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Old 07-15-2014, 11:36 PM   #16
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You're lucky you came to the right place lol. But should have been done earlier before you had corals.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:42 PM   #17
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Definitely! So essentially what I've learned is that the pH number doesn't have to be exact, as long as you keep it consistent and most fish will adjust, however there are certain exceptions where some fish are highly sensitive to pH, and obviously you can't have your ph highly toxic in one direction or the other. My freshwater pH is at 7.8 and everyone in the tank has been living with it that way for about a year or more. My water is alkaline here so in theory I should never have much of a problem with my marine fish. Please correct me if I'm wrong! I welcome constructive criticism.

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Old 07-16-2014, 12:07 AM   #18
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In saltwater everything has to be done slowly and avoid sudden changes of parameter. That is why acclimating is critical when adding or moving fish and corals in the tank. The pH has to be not below 8.0 during the day since it normally drops to about 2 points at night as algae consume oxygen when light is out. Try to maintain Alkalinity to 9 if possible to have a stable pH and provide good balance to Magnesium and Calcium. The 3 are the most important trace elements for corals. You can raise pH by water surface agitation with power head.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:15 AM   #19
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I'll have to invest in a more complete test kit that measures alkalinity as well as pH. I already have a power head that agitates the surface and moves water, obviously. I can't stand air stones so this was my solution.

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Old 07-18-2014, 03:57 PM   #20
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Ro / Di and pH

The chemistry can be a bit complex, but your statements about stability are right on. The final PH number isn't as important as stability. Buffering can help stabilize PH. BRS has some nice videos about this topic. But at the point you are at , water exchanges should be all you need to do. Adding alk/cal/Mg is something you do when your coral bioload exceeds what water exchanges replaces.


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