Can't kick this Ammonia

[robocop]

I'm OT my Flame Angel and no matter how much I change the water and all I always get a small trace of ammonia. All other parameters are fine.
I'm using Hypo to treat for Ich. Been at it for over 2wks. Ich is gone...have 4wks left. Any Idea why this Amonia keeps sticking around? I change the water daily. I even did a 50% change. I tested my RO/DO filter and got no trace of Amonnia. Not sure what to do. I've added Stresszyme and some Ammonia remover. Still get the small trace. The fish acts fine (still eat, and behaves normal)thought I think the white marks around his head are getting larger and has started on the other side...not sure if it was from the Amonnia. I treated for hole in the head with Jungle Parasite Clear Tank Buddies last week. That didn't help any. Again not sure what to do.

10gal Tank
1 Flame Angel
Bio-Filter
(I even added a Protien skimmer to help)
(Added a chunk of LR to help)
(small amont of sand)

 

[steve-s]

I've added Stresszyme and some Ammonia remover. Still get the small trace.

The ammonia product is most likely the issue. Once added, ammonia removers can cause the test kit to report a false positive. They do not actually remove the ammonia in the water but rather bind it making it less harmful.

Try a small experiment by adding some of the ammonia remover to the appropriate amount of RO/DI water and see what result you get.

What test kit are you using?

Cheers
Steve

 

[robocop]

I can't think of the name of it off hand...I'm out of town right now but I'll check when I get back....it tested it on one of my other tanks and the reading was different so the test kit is working.

 

[MattP725]

Lots of "ammonia removing" products do two things... neutralize ammonia (not remove it) and screw up test kits. With a 10g you are always gonna have hard times keeping things straight. I am a bit concerned about the well being of the fish since they alright have had HITO and possibly ammonia burns or maybe even another parasite. How old is the tank? I would do a 30% water change. Be careful to properly test salinity, temp, PH etc of any new water before adding it because a slight mishap will have devistating effects on the small tank. You didn't post how high the ammonia actually was or how long the tank has been running.

 

[robocop]

I used existing tank water from my main tank which has been set up for over a year. I have a refractometer so my salinity is always well tested. I test them before and after adding water. I actually have a electronic PH tester wich the PH is and has been stable. Temp is kept at 79. The test kit I have does not have a number measurment just color. The color is kinda confusing because I can barly tell if it 0 or the color above 0. I'm guessing that it could be the ammonia removers screwing up the test results because as you can see above that I have all sorts of things to try to off set it. I've done water changes like crazy. I'm averaging 40% changes each time. Is there any way to remove the ammonia removers so it does not screw up the test results? If not how do I tell if I have a ammonia problem or not. Do you think the white areas around the head are ammonia burns? How can you tell the differance from that and Hole in the head. I was never sure what it was. It looks as if someone rubbed the color off of the fishes head in small areas. Not sure if that helps

 

[steve-s]

The only way to remove the ammonia binder is through water changes and in time it will dissapate. There is nothing you can add. The one thing you can do is see if your LFS has a Seachem product called an ammonia alert badge. It will generally read correctly past these additives as well as when using Cupramine.

As far as what the fish may have, it's too hard to tell by that description but a pic would definately help if you can post one.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MattP725]

The only problem with the alert badge is that it isn't very specific. In my tank when the ammonia was at a fatal level it was at alarm (toxic is the highest) and when it was a bit less it was at alert and finally when it was still there but not super high it was at safe. It is kinda misleading I think because there is no level that is safe. It is nice to have to alert you of a spike you didn't notice but definately not something to do in place of testing. Also you said you couldn't tell if the test was 0 or just above because of the colors... you should be able to tell clearly when it is at 0. More than likely you are above.

 

[melosu58]

Try using Carbon or resin like Chemi-pure. These do an excellent job of removing Ammonia. I`m not a fan of these Chemicals that remove Ammonia. Good Luck

 

[MattP725]

There is no chemical that removes ammonia... the only thing that will help is water changes and the addition of nitrifying bacteria. Is this a new tank? If so add some media from the established one to help with the cycling process. Why do you have fish in the tank with ammonia problems instead of the established tank?

 

[robocop]

MattP725.....please read all the above message to get a background on what's going on. I've answered all the questions you are asking above.

 

[MattP725]

OK I got the one question but still not sure how long it has been running. I assume a short while since it was a QT tank. What kind of filtration are you running on the main tank... if it is a biological of some kind you can add it temporarily to the QT to get the bacteria introduced. If you have any type of sponge media you can add it to the filtration method of the QT or somewhere with high water flow like a powerhead or sump.

 

[robocop]

I'm using Hypo to cure. The salinity from my main tank would not match. I guess I could delute it. Not sure if that would have the same effect. Using Bio filtration on the main tank. I actually have a bio filter on the QT....not sure if the low salinity is killing it.

 

[steve-s]

In the beginning, lowered salinity may slow the growth of bacteria but they will quickly adapt. Hyposalinity does not kill off the biofilter.

Cheers
Steve

 

[robocop]

That's good to here....thanks. Is it ok to take out and lower the salinity of the main tanks water to do a water change?

 

[robocop]

That's good to here....thanks. Is it ok to take out and lower the salinity of the main tanks water to do a water change?

 

[steve-s]

Is it ok to take out and lower the salinity of the main tanks water to do a water change?

No, using the water from the main is acceptable for the initial fill of the QT but nothing else for two main reasons.

The main tank could possibley still contain the virus/parasite you are treating for thereby transfering the problem with it. The other is the main will have a certain degree of DOC which will hamper water quality in the QT adding to your problems.

It's best to do your water changes with well aged (24hrs) and aerated freshly mixed SW. It avoids alot of issues and at the same time helps buffer water that is otherwise supressed by the hyposalinity process. When performing hyposalinity it is quite important to monitor the alk/pH as it has a tendancey to drop.

Be absolutely sure you are not combining hypo with a copper treatment, one or the other not both. Combined as one treatment would be too stressful on the fish and cause death.

Cheers
Steve