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Old 08-09-2005, 11:17 AM   #1
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can't seem to raise my ph.

I did a water change on Thursday and since then my ph has been 7.8. I have use the B-ionic calcium buffer system and it is not doing the trick. Can someone tell me why. I have done three treaments so far and it just will not come up to the 8 mark. Thanx
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Old 08-09-2005, 11:49 AM   #2
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what is your alkalinity at?
you cannot just add a calcium buffer without knowing alkalinity. the two have to stay balanced.
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Old 08-09-2005, 11:58 AM   #3
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well the alkalinity is higher than 300.I have two test that i am using to get the results. One is the qiuck dip and the other is just the one that measures the ph only and that one is the fast test. On the buffer system that i have . It says number 1 is the alkalinity and number 2 is the calcium.
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Old 08-09-2005, 12:15 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by flytiehunt
well the alkalinity is higher than 300.
Ouch, stop using any additives for pH and alkalinity. Your levels are already far too high. I would suggest a series of good sized water changes to get that down to a safer level. Be sure the new SW is mixed/aerated for a day first. Target 125-150 ppm.

If your alk is that high and your pH is low, your problem is aeration/trapped CO2. You need to look at the way the tank is set up and ways to improve gas exchange. pH is most commonly depressed by improper aeration.

How old is the tank, what is your bioload like and what time of day are you testing the pH?

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Old 08-09-2005, 12:37 PM   #5
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let me ask you this. I have on each side of the 55 gal. I have a 900 jet and a 12oo power head. Is that right for aeration. How should i position them.
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Old 08-09-2005, 03:09 PM   #6
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do you have alot of surface movement? moving water around below the surface does just that...moves water around. It has to break the surface ie: rippling, rolling etc for good gas exchange to be taking place. At least that is my understanding.
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Old 08-09-2005, 03:16 PM   #7
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yikes! Listen to Steve-s!
right now your alkalinity is almost 17 dKh. 11dKh is the upper end of acceptable.

If you plan to use additives like calcium and alkalinity, you MUST use high quality liquid test kits. dip strips can just be damaged too easily, and with the significant investment in live rock, corals, inverts and fish, you cannot afford to skimp on testing.

I'd say that's not enough circulation either. I have two MJ 1200's for my 40gallon breeder tank, which is a full foot shorter in length. This seems to be a perfect amount of circulation for me. I'd put another 1200 on there. Put them directly across from each other, and have them angle'd slightly up so they agitate the water's surface, and the current is semi-erratic.
I'd put the 900 in the back corner of the tank, angle'd up a little steeper for even more surface agitation, which will give better gas exchange. Lack of good gas exchange can cause CO2 buildup in the water, creating carbonic acid, which pushes your pH down a little.
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Old 08-09-2005, 04:30 PM   #8
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Also be sure there are open area's for the tank to breathe (large sump/uncovered tank top). Simpley having the appropriate amount of flow is only part of the solution. Also be sure the room the tank is in is getting good ventilation.

Until you get the alk down though, you will continue to have a pH problem.

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Old 08-09-2005, 04:30 PM   #9
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Also a glass top can trap the CO2. Do you have a glass top? Removing a portion of it and replacing it with eggcrate can give you an immediate rise in PH.
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Old 08-09-2005, 09:55 PM   #10
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That`s what I was going to ask, about the glass top.
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