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Old 04-19-2006, 10:17 PM   #31
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those are not wet dry filters they are just hang on back filters (HOB) a wet/dry goes under the tank and the tank has a over flow that takes water to the filter.

Firist you need to take the coral back, then IMO take out the UG filters, get more LR min of 1 lb per gallon and let the tank settle down for a while. Test water and post numbers and then look into new lighting if you want corals or anemonies. An anemonie is very delicate and needs a very matur tank.
take thing slow, going fast only costs more money.

Pictures would help also.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seaham358
those are not wet dry filters they are just hang on back filters (HOB) a wet/dry goes under the tank and the tank has a over flow that takes water to the filter.
Good catch seaham. I thought he was talking about a regular wet/dry. Are these biowheels then? That's the only HOB "wet/dry" I know of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by seaham358
Firist you need to take the coral back, then IMO take out the UG filters, get more LR min of 1 lb per gallon and let the tank settle down for a while. Test water and post numbers and then look into new lighting if you want corals or anemonies. An anemonie is very delicate and needs a very matur tank.
take thing slow, going fast only costs more money.

Pictures would help also.
*nod*
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Old 04-20-2006, 04:03 PM   #33
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Thanx!

well I visite one of the local pet store and I ask how much is the test kit, $11 for the kit but it can only test ammonia, nitrate and Ph.
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Old 04-20-2006, 04:36 PM   #34
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That's a start. Ammonia is the most critical for you right now. Nitrite would be next, and that usually comes in a seperate kit. If you can't afford the whole set right now, just pick up an ammonia kit, and add to your test kit collection as you can afford it. Make sure the kits you are getting work OK in saltwater.

If $11 is a stretch for you, you're probably not going to sucessfully keep corals, just to be realistic. I've been reseaching reef aquariums for almost two years now, but havn't actually started one due to the cost of doing it the way I think is right. Don't give up altoghter though, we can probably help you get a nice fish only system together on a reasonable budget.
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:16 PM   #35
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is that normal if buy a test kit it can only test ammonia, nitrate and Ph.
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:28 PM   #36
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What is the brand of the kit? Mine is the saltmater's kit, it has Ph, ammonia, nitrAte, nitrite...
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Old 04-20-2006, 06:56 PM   #37
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Ok! I’ll forget the reef setup for the moment and focus on fish only tank till I get good quality of water.

I’ll buy a test kit then re-setup my aquarium

Question is this ok if I put my power head filter on the tube of my UGF at the same time. How about the water flow do I need to have a strong water flow in side of the aquarium or I need to focus that flow directly to the filter
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:47 AM   #38
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We suggest you phase out the UGF. You can keep the powerheads for water flow, just disconnect them from the tubing and point them at a still area of the tank. I'm not sure what you mean by power head filter. If you have a sponge or an inlet screen for the powerhead, that's great, it will keep sick or stupid fish from getting caught in the powerhead.
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:21 PM   #39
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Hi! I like to know if it’s normal that my salinity of my water rise, I’ve notice because every 3 days I check the salinity of my water and I found out that the salinity level is up so every 3 days I add freshwater.

Is that normal?

1 of my problem is our temperature our temperature is 31C up to 35C I add ice on my than so I will lower down the temperature is there any way I can lower down the temperature. I’ve visit out LFS and inquire how much it will cost if I buy a chiller $440, is there any way that I can improvise a chiller like device.
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:57 AM   #40
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Completely normal. You probably notice the water level is going down at the same time? Water evaporates, but salt does not. Top off as frequently as necessary to keep the salinity from swinging. Also note that the hydrometer reading is affected by temperature, if your temperature is not constant, you need a chart to translate specific gravity to salinity correctly.

Improvised chillers:
A) A small refridgerator, a long length of flexible hose, and a pump can make a chiller. This is often not terrably efficient, but it works.
B) If you only need to cool a little bit, a peltier would do the trick. I think this is not good for your case.
C) Evaporative cooling. Use an open top or light diffuser grid instead of a full hood, and point a fan down on the water. You will have to top off with freshwater more often.
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