Brenden
Aquarium Advice Addict
NH3-0
NO2-0
NO3-<10
PO4-0
PH-8.1-8.3
Remove the undergravel filter.
I agree with seaham 100%
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NH3-0
NO2-0
NO3-<10
PO4-0
PH-8.1-8.3
Remove the undergravel filter.
I agree with seaham 100%
dskidmore
Aquarium Advice Addict
The major thing you are missing is good lighting. (Besides the test kits.)
The power heads, and skimmer are good.
The wet-dry could be converted into a sump, which is good.
A quarantine tank would be another good thing to have.
Yes, remove the undergravel filter, but do it slowly. Remove about 1/4 of the crushed coral each week, and when it's all gone you can pull out the plates. If you can, replace the crushed coral with argonite sand (Carib Sea sells the expensive kind, Wal-Mart has "white play sand" manufactured by "Old Castle" under the brandname "Kolorscape" that's the same stuff only cheaper. Don't be scared off by the warning on the white play sand that it shouldn't be used in aquariums.) If you're not going to replace with sand, you could just remove the uplift tubes. The plates won't hurt anything, it's the crushed coral and the circulation pattern that need to change.
seaham358 - Don't be so harsh. The first post on this thread was yesterday, we've already emphasized the importance of test kits. Not everyone has an express train to the LFS and an unlimited bank account. The foodstuffs are already on hand, so that's all we have until the test kits come.
The power heads, and skimmer are good.
The wet-dry could be converted into a sump, which is good.
A quarantine tank would be another good thing to have.
Yes, remove the undergravel filter, but do it slowly. Remove about 1/4 of the crushed coral each week, and when it's all gone you can pull out the plates. If you can, replace the crushed coral with argonite sand (Carib Sea sells the expensive kind, Wal-Mart has "white play sand" manufactured by "Old Castle" under the brandname "Kolorscape" that's the same stuff only cheaper. Don't be scared off by the warning on the white play sand that it shouldn't be used in aquariums.) If you're not going to replace with sand, you could just remove the uplift tubes. The plates won't hurt anything, it's the crushed coral and the circulation pattern that need to change.
seaham358 - Don't be so harsh. The first post on this thread was yesterday, we've already emphasized the importance of test kits. Not everyone has an express train to the LFS and an unlimited bank account. The foodstuffs are already on hand, so that's all we have until the test kits come.
seaham358
Aquarium Advice Addict
you say you have 2 wet and dry filter , hoe do you have 2 wet dry filters? Are these hang on back filters or are they under the tank?
dskidmore just driving home how important the test kits are.. Food is not a issue at this point and just trying to deal with the larger issue at hand... A elegance in a tank poor lighting and possible poor water quality. The reason things are dieing and not eating is probably due too poor water quality not the food. JMO..
dskidmore just driving home how important the test kits are.. Food is not a issue at this point and just trying to deal with the larger issue at hand... A elegance in a tank poor lighting and possible poor water quality. The reason things are dieing and not eating is probably due too poor water quality not the food. JMO..
dskidmore
Aquarium Advice Addict
I agree completely.seaham358 said:
seaham358
Aquarium Advice Addict
How do you acclimate the critters you put in the tank?
Thanx! Dskidmore… well this is my first time to try saltwater I know sometimes I’m tooo annoying because I ask too many question, because I like to learn.
I read some articles on the net but sometimes or most of the sime I cannot understand some information because I do not have any experience on it.
Well thanx! for all the info…
I read some articles on the net but sometimes or most of the sime I cannot understand some information because I do not have any experience on it.
Well thanx! for all the info…
seaham358
Aquarium Advice Addict
Not annoying at all?? we all asked questions ar first that is how we learn.. We are looking to get as much info as possible to help you out. This why we ask questions and want answers so we can help you out.
Brenden
Aquarium Advice Addict
No such thing as too many questions. We are just trying to get info from you to help us, so we can help you.
Yup! I have 2 wet and dry filter hang on back filters…
But I see one problem because I have 3 power head running at opposite direction and the current is too strong do I need to turn off one of the power head or just leave it be.
But I see one problem because I have 3 power head running at opposite direction and the current is too strong do I need to turn off one of the power head or just leave it be.
seaham358
Aquarium Advice Addict
those are not wet dry filters they are just hang on back filters (HOB) a wet/dry goes under the tank and the tank has a over flow that takes water to the filter.
Firist you need to take the coral back, then IMO take out the UG filters, get more LR min of 1 lb per gallon and let the tank settle down for a while. Test water and post numbers and then look into new lighting if you want corals or anemonies. An anemonie is very delicate and needs a very matur tank.
take thing slow, going fast only costs more money.
Pictures would help also.
Firist you need to take the coral back, then IMO take out the UG filters, get more LR min of 1 lb per gallon and let the tank settle down for a while. Test water and post numbers and then look into new lighting if you want corals or anemonies. An anemonie is very delicate and needs a very matur tank.
take thing slow, going fast only costs more money.
Pictures would help also.
dskidmore
Aquarium Advice Addict
Good catch seaham. I thought he was talking about a regular wet/dry. Are these biowheels then? That's the only HOB "wet/dry" I know of.seaham358 said:
*nod*seaham358 said:
dskidmore
Aquarium Advice Addict
That's a start. Ammonia is the most critical for you right now. Nitrite would be next, and that usually comes in a seperate kit. If you can't afford the whole set right now, just pick up an ammonia kit, and add to your test kit collection as you can afford it. Make sure the kits you are getting work OK in saltwater.
If $11 is a stretch for you, you're probably not going to sucessfully keep corals, just to be realistic. I've been reseaching reef aquariums for almost two years now, but havn't actually started one due to the cost of doing it the way I think is right. Don't give up altoghter though, we can probably help you get a nice fish only system together on a reasonable budget.
If $11 is a stretch for you, you're probably not going to sucessfully keep corals, just to be realistic. I've been reseaching reef aquariums for almost two years now, but havn't actually started one due to the cost of doing it the way I think is right. Don't give up altoghter though, we can probably help you get a nice fish only system together on a reasonable budget.
roka64
Aquarium Advice Addict
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 13,858
What is the brand of the kit? Mine is the saltmater's kit, it has Ph, ammonia, nitrAte, nitrite...
Ok! I’ll forget the reef setup for the moment and focus on fish only tank till I get good quality of water.
I’ll buy a test kit then re-setup my aquarium
Question is this ok if I put my power head filter on the tube of my UGF at the same time. How about the water flow do I need to have a strong water flow in side of the aquarium or I need to focus that flow directly to the filter
I’ll buy a test kit then re-setup my aquarium
Question is this ok if I put my power head filter on the tube of my UGF at the same time. How about the water flow do I need to have a strong water flow in side of the aquarium or I need to focus that flow directly to the filter
dskidmore
Aquarium Advice Addict
We suggest you phase out the UGF. You can keep the powerheads for water flow, just disconnect them from the tubing and point them at a still area of the tank. I'm not sure what you mean by power head filter. If you have a sponge or an inlet screen for the powerhead, that's great, it will keep sick or stupid fish from getting caught in the powerhead.
Hi! I like to know if it’s normal that my salinity of my water rise, I’ve notice because every 3 days I check the salinity of my water and I found out that the salinity level is up so every 3 days I add freshwater.
Is that normal?
1 of my problem is our temperature our temperature is 31C up to 35C I add ice on my than so I will lower down the temperature is there any way I can lower down the temperature. I’ve visit out LFS and inquire how much it will cost if I buy a chiller $440, is there any way that I can improvise a chiller like device.
Is that normal?
1 of my problem is our temperature our temperature is 31C up to 35C I add ice on my than so I will lower down the temperature is there any way I can lower down the temperature. I’ve visit out LFS and inquire how much it will cost if I buy a chiller $440, is there any way that I can improvise a chiller like device.
dskidmore
Aquarium Advice Addict
Completely normal. You probably notice the water level is going down at the same time? Water evaporates, but salt does not. Top off as frequently as necessary to keep the salinity from swinging. Also note that the hydrometer reading is affected by temperature, if your temperature is not constant, you need a chart to translate specific gravity to salinity correctly.
Improvised chillers:
A) A small refridgerator, a long length of flexible hose, and a pump can make a chiller. This is often not terrably efficient, but it works.
B) If you only need to cool a little bit, a peltier would do the trick. I think this is not good for your case.
C) Evaporative cooling. Use an open top or light diffuser grid instead of a full hood, and point a fan down on the water. You will have to top off with freshwater more often.
Improvised chillers:
A) A small refridgerator, a long length of flexible hose, and a pump can make a chiller. This is often not terrably efficient, but it works.
B) If you only need to cool a little bit, a peltier would do the trick. I think this is not good for your case.
C) Evaporative cooling. Use an open top or light diffuser grid instead of a full hood, and point a fan down on the water. You will have to top off with freshwater more often.
