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Old 03-04-2004, 11:05 PM   #1
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Ready to Cycle?

I have the following equiptment and was wondering if I'm ready to cycle??

I have:

55 gl tank
2 maxi jet 1200's
2 150w heaters
Sand, Not livesand I'm guessing because it's in a bag from the LFS
pH tester
Nitrite/Nitrate tester

Once I get the ok on these, I guess I have to goto the LFS and get ro/di water. I've been reading this is better than tap water and just adding seasalt, is this true?
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Old 03-05-2004, 01:47 AM   #2
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What will you be using for your main filtration source, just the sand or adding LR later?

You will also need an ammonia test and something to read the salinity. Refractometer would be best but there are many hydrometers available as well. Do the heaters have a digital read out? If not you will also need a thermometer of some type. 2x MJ 1200's would be at the base scale for a SW tank but will be fine to start the tank. Once you add animals you may need to add more flow but that will depend on the type of tank you want.

Quote:
I've been reading this is better than tap water and just adding seasalt, is this true?
Definately better. It will mean alot less algae issues as the tank cycles and matures.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 03-05-2004, 02:04 AM   #3
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OK, so before I start the cycling, I'll pick up a Refractometer and a digital thermometer......... thanks. :P Whats the average price for ro/di? whats ro/di stand for anyways???
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Old 03-05-2004, 02:06 AM   #4
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what type of filtration are you gonna use?
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:51 AM   #5
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I think the price of RO/DI varies from area to area. Where I live some places sell RO for about 0.30/gal while other places sell it for 0.50,if you have a selection of LFS around town you may want to call around, since if you are buying water that size tank it $$$ will add up quickly (considering you have a new tank you will have to change your water more frequently). You may want to invest in a RO/DI unit, it may cost you a lot up front, but will save you money in the long run.

As for what RO/DI stands for Reverse Osmosis and Deionization. If you want to find out what it is just do a search on the topic. This one is from the articles section.
How Reverse Osmosis Systems Work
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Old 03-05-2004, 02:20 PM   #6
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I'm thinking Liverock is the better filteration, but seeing as of hows it's so expensive, I'm thinking maybe I'll get 20lbs of Liverock and still go with a Penguin Filter........ Hows that sound?
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Old 03-05-2004, 02:25 PM   #7
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Go with 40 lbs of lr, then get some base rock and let the lr spread to it.
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Old 03-05-2004, 05:53 PM   #8
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Actually I would still suggest the 20 lbs of LR but as justmy2cents suggested, get some base rock as well. 30 lbs of dry Hawaiian Island rock is quite cheap...

Cheers
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Old 03-07-2004, 08:48 PM   #9
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Cool, thanks for the liverock info.... So cycle when I get the rocks and not any sooner............. so I'm thinking 40lbs of Liverock and 30 of dry base rock, how's that sound?
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinotrex
Cool, thanks for the liverock info.... So cycle when I get the rocks and not any sooner............. so I'm thinking 40lbs of Liverock and 30 of dry base rock, how's that sound?
Sounds great. While your waiting on the rock, you should get the tank up and running with water and make sure the equipment is working correctly. You can either add sand now or after the rock arrives. Just be sure you submerge the rock an inch or so into the sand for stability. If there will be the possibility of "digging" animals added, I would place the base rock on the or as close to the bottom as possible.

Just remember rock will displace water so make sure you remove about a third when the rock is added.

Cheers
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