55 gallon - what basic equipment?

[martonic]

Hi - I am brand new and contemplating getting a 55 gallon (48 x 13 x 19 inches high) tank for my son! Of course I will go slow, change the water, change media as needed, do cycling and test the water a lot!

Now,to include both plants and fish (freshwater only), what range of equipment (approximately) is appropriate:

A) Heating: how many watts total? One heater, two, or more? One 100 Watt heater on each side plus a 25 Watt coil in the bottom? Or... ?

B) Lighting: is the "All Glass Aquarium: Standard Aquarium Spectrum" fluorescent lighting useful? Or is "Actinic" spectrum needed for plants. Or?

Also, about how many total watts of lighting is needed to support both live plants and small fish?

C) Filtration: Bio-Wheel or Canister? Fluval 405? Emperor 400? Something else?

Is it better to use one powerful filter, or two moderate filters?

What do you guys suggest?

D) Is a separate "quarantine" tank necessary when (slowly) stocking up?

E) Finally, how do you heat up the water for a water change?

Okay, those are my questions to start.

I would like to have an idea what I am getting into beforehand.

 

[theotheragentm]

A) Heating: how many watts total? One heater, two, or more? One 100 Watt heater on each side plus a 25 Watt coil in the bottom? Or... ?

Depending on where you are located, you might want a bit more wattage for the winter. I'm in Southern California and 200W keeps up my tank even with my cracked window. I think a pair of 150W would be sufficient.

B) Lighting: is the "All Glass Aquarium: Standard Aquarium Spectrum" fluorescent lighting useful? Or is "Actinic" spectrum needed for plants. Or?

Also, about how many total watts of lighting is needed to support both live plants and small fish?

Actinic does little for plants. I'll let someone else field the question. I know it will be based on what plants you want to grow. Fish, it doesn't matter so much.

C) Filtration: Bio-Wheel or Canister? Fluval 405? Emperor 400? Something else?

Is it better to use one powerful filter, or two moderate filters?

What do you guys suggest?

Rena XP3 or equally sized cannister filter from the other brands is a great option. It will depend on your fish as some don't like as much water movement, but most fish will be fine.

D) Is a separate "quarantine" tank necessary when (slowly) stocking up?

It is recommended as fish coming from stores often are not in the best of shape.

E) Finally, how do you heat up the water for a water change?

I just use a mix of hot and cold water and compare it with my hand.

 

[black hills tj]

A) Heating: how many watts total? One heater, two, or more? One 100 Watt heater on each side plus a 25 Watt coil in the bottom? Or... ?

I would go with 2 Visitherm stealth heaters. 150w each would be more than sufficient.

B) Lighting: is the "All Glass Aquarium: Standard Aquarium Spectrum" fluorescent lighting useful? Or is "Actinic" spectrum needed for plants. Or?

Also, about how many total watts of lighting is needed to support both live plants and small fish?

In general, fish could honestly care less about lighting. With regards to plants though...it depends on which plants you intend to grow and how intense you want to get into the plant side of the hobby. If you go high light fertilizer and co2 may be necesary.

C) Filtration: Bio-Wheel or Canister? Fluval 405? Emperor 400? Something else?

Is it better to use one powerful filter, or two moderate filters?

What do you guys suggest?


For your 55g tank...I would suggest the RenaFilstar XP3 Canister Filter. When I setup a 55, this will be the filter I use. They are on sale right now at petsmart for 100 I think with free shipping. Also, Petsmart price matches their online prices so take advantage of that when setting up your tank.

D) Is a separate "quarantine" tank necessary when (slowly) stocking up?

If its a new aquarium, I don't think a quarantine tank is necesary. Once it is decently established I would look into it though. I personally have 3 tanks setup and not one of them is a QT tank, and I honestly suffer minimal fish loss due to the introduction of disease from outside fish. Be smart about your choice of fish, but of course there are diseases that can't be seen from a quick check at the LFS.

E) Finally, how do you heat up the water for a water change?

For water changes on a 55 gallon tank, the python is priceless. It'll save you loads of time and energy. Hook it up to your faucet, mix the hot and cold to a temp near your tank, and hit the valve.

 

[papa_bear_21]

I use 2 filters on mine, a rena xp2 and an aqua clear HOB filter. They do a great job of keeping the tank clean, and we have some messy fish. The canister fister I use has the ability to direct the return flow, and allow for more or less current. Again, the number, type, and requirements of the fish you keep will change some of the variables. Are you thinking tropical community, or other fish?

 

[theotheragentm]

I second the Python. I forgot to mention. I use it too. It's a time saver and a spill saver.

 

[black hills tj]

I second the Python. I forgot to mention. I use it too. It's a time saver and a spill saver.

I can't imagine hauling 20 5-gallon buckets to do a 50% pwc on a tank. I even use my python on my little 10g tank. I have the 25 footer and it works great.

 

[martonic]

A) Heating: how many watts total? One heater, two, or more? One 100 Watt heater on each side plus a 25 Watt coil in the bottom? Or... ?

I would go with 2 Visitherm stealth heaters. 150w each would be more than sufficient.

Thanks so much for your help.
I like the deals at petsmart and they've got these but no 150's, just 100's and 200's. As a newbie I have to ask: is 2 x 200's okay for my 55 so long as I adjust the settings correctly?

B) Lighting: is the "All Glass Aquarium: Standard Aquarium Spectrum" fluorescent lighting useful? Or is "Actinic" spectrum needed for plants. Or?

Also, about how many total watts of lighting is needed to support both live plants and small fish?

In general, fish could honestly care less about lighting. With regards to plants though...it depends on which plants you intend to grow and how intense you want to get into the plant side of the hobby. If you go high light fertilizer and co2 may be necesary.

C) Filtration: Bio-Wheel or Canister? Fluval 405? Emperor 400? Something else?

Is it better to use one powerful filter, or two moderate filters?

What do you guys suggest?


For your 55g tank...I would suggest the RenaFilstar XP3 Canister Filter. When I setup a 55, this will be the filter I use. They are on sale right now at petsmart for 100 I think with free shipping. Also, Petsmart price matches their online prices so take advantage of that when setting up your tank.

Thanks for the tip! But that one is back-ordered. What about the 500/110 Aqua Clear Filter (supposedly up to 500 GPH)?

D) Is a separate "quarantine" tank necessary when (slowly) stocking up?

If its a new aquarium, I don't think a quarantine tank is necesary. Once it is decently established I would look into it though. I personally have 3 tanks setup and not one of them is a QT tank, and I honestly suffer minimal fish loss due to the introduction of disease from outside fish. Be smart about your choice of fish, but of course there are diseases that can't be seen from a quick check at the LFS.

E) Finally, how do you heat up the water for a water change?

For water changes on a 55 gallon tank, the python is priceless. It'll save you loads of time and energy. Hook it up to your faucet, mix the hot and cold to a temp near your tank, and hit the valve.

Using the procedure above, at what point do you add thiosulfate to neutralize the chorine? After putting the tapwater into the tank? Or ?

 

[Alshain]

Filter:
I would reccomend the XP2 for a 55 gallon, XP3 is a bit overkill.

Water Change:
I use a python and just adjust the hot/cold while holding a thermometer under it before putting it in the tank.

Lighting:
Depending on what kind of plants you want, get a CurrentUSA Sattelite or equivilent (they have cheaper but they don't look as good and are not as rugged). If you get the dual 65 Watt bulb fixture, then you can use dual-daylight bulbs for high light or 50/50 bulbs for medium. I would definitely recommend a CF system if you can afford it though.

Heater:
If your getting a canister filter then get a Hydor ETH 300 inline heater, no contest. It keeps the ugly equipment out of the tank and out of sight and does a perfect job. Installation is a breeze, you just cut the outgoing tubing from the filter and place it in sequence following the arrows, then hand tighten the provided screw bolts.

 

[black hills tj]

Thanks so much for your help.
I like the deals at petsmart and they've got these but no 150's, just 100's and 200's. As a newbie I have to ask: is 2 x 200's okay for my 55 so long as I adjust the settings correctly?

Thanks for the tip! But that one is back-ordered. What about the 500/110 Aqua Clear Filter (supposedly up to 500 GPH)?

Using the procedure above, at what point do you add thiosulfate to neutralize the chorine? After putting the tapwater into the tank? Or ?

A pair of 200w Visitherm Stealth's would be perfect, or go with the inline heater like the Hydor Alshain mentioned.

Do you have a local petsmart? Print off the internet page with the price for the Rena Filstar filters and take it to your local Petsmart. They'll pricematch it.

Also the Rena Filstar XP series is on sale at www.bigalsonline.com. The price is cheaper but shipping is not free.

Regarding a dechlorinator. Most of us here on AA use Prime. However, I add mine right after I finish filling the tank.

 

[theotheragentm]

The only reason I recommended the XP3 is because the price difference between the XP2 at the time I ordered was so small. It was a good return for the additional investment.

Check the following sites for a cannister filter.
marinedepot.com
bigalsonline.com
drsfostersmith.com

 

[JustOneMore20]

Rena XP3 isn't overkill for a 55g. Its perfect. Remember, you aren't going to get the full gph that its rated for. The XP2 would be fine along with another filter, but the XP3 has more media room.

2 200w heaters would be great.

I second Prime and third or fourth the Python.

I agree, lighting depends on what type of plants you want to keep. A 130w (2x65w bulbs) power compact fixture works nicely without carbon dioxide injection if you have alot of fast growing plants. If you want less light there are 110w fixtures and even less wattage fluorescent fixtures. If you plan to have a high light tank with co2 injection, a 260w fixture may be worth looking into.

 

[black hills tj]

I agree, lighting depends on what type of plants you want to keep. A 130w (2x65w bulbs) power compact fixture works nicely without carbon dioxide injection if you have alot of fast growing plants. If you want less light there are 110w fixtures and even less wattage fluorescent fixtures. If you plan to have a high light tank with co2 injection, a 260w fixture may be worth looking into.

4.75 watts per gallon...dear lord that's a lot of light. Anyone tried it yet? I bet you can get some ridiculous reds with that much light.

 

[martonic]

Rena XP3 isn't overkill for a 55g. Its perfect. Remember, you aren't going to get the full gph that its rated for. The XP2 would be fine along with another filter, but the XP3 has more media room.

Having found the XP3 at Big Al's I'm very tempted to go with it.

Any suggestions on what media to start with?

I am wondering about the following stocking goal:

Dwarf neon rainbow : 8
Congo tetra: 8
Cory cat: 6

Does that make sense in a 55g? Or is it a bad mix. Suggestions?

2 200w heaters would be great.

There is the Rena "Smartheater 300" which attaches to the XP3, but I am thinking to go with 2 x 200W submersibles because heaters seem to break down fairly often, and this would provide a backup system.

I second Prime and third or fourth the Python.

I agree, lighting depends on what type of plants you want to keep. A 130w (2x65w bulbs) power compact fixture works nicely without carbon dioxide injection if you have alot of fast growing plants. If you want less light there are 110w fixtures and even less wattage fluorescent fixtures. If you plan to have a high light tank with co2 injection, a 260w fixture may be worth looking into.

I found a 220W compact fluorescent fixture on eBay, so I am going with that. If it's too much I can remove one or two of the four 55W bulbs.

Thanks so much for all the help!

 

[black hills tj]

Sounds like you are right on track!

That stocking doesn't look too bad. Looks like you'll have separate strata covered pretty well, and those fish will all get along just fine. If you wanted, you could even bump the number of cories up to 10 pretty easily.

What kind of cories are you looking at?

 

[martonic]

Hi again - I'm looking at the "Flagtail Cory", maybe aim for 8 of those too - water temp 76 to 81 supposed to be okay for all three species, so can shoot for 77 to 80 region.

 

[JustOneMore20]

Your stocking looks fine. You could even add more cories if you wanted. Congo tetras get fairly large for a tetra....they'll be huge full grown, but should be fine in a 55.

220 watts is alot of light if you don't inject carbon dioxide, so you'll want to only run half of the lights (110w). Later on, if you want to get a co2 setup, then you'll already be set with the lighting.

Either heaters would work. Alot of people prefer to have 2 smaller heaters in larger tanks just in case one fails. I personally keep back ups at my house, so I only run one heater. The smart heater might be worth looking into though. Does it run inline with the XPs? I'll have to check on that... Inline heaters atleast get them out of the tank, so its less equipment to look at.

 

[rkilling1]

There is the Rena "Smartheater 300" which attaches to the XP3, but I am thinking to go with 2 x 200W submersibles because heaters seem to break down fairly often, and this would provide a backup system.

IMO, I would go with the Hydor. The "smarheater" goes on the suction side of the filter and would get clogged much faster then the Hydor that you put on the output side of the filter.

The Hydor is only a couple bucks more and has a great reputation.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produ...matchallpartial&Ntk=All&N=2004&Ntt=hydor&Np=1

Also, I do not and never plan on running two heaters on any of my tanks. That's just two times more likely for one of them to fail and cause problems.

They can stick on and heat the water up very fast. In this example, it doesn't matter if you have one or two, it could still happen.

With having only one, you run the chance of it not heating at all when it fails. In my house the temp stays at 72 degrees. That is NOT a huge temp difference. If you are running this tank outside, then I would have to recommend getting two of them, but if it is indoors I would stick to one.

55 gallons of water with a heater that failed will slowly loose it's temp. It's not like 5 or 10 minutes it's down by 10 degrees, so having a heater fail to heat is not a big concern IMO.

Again, the more equipment you put into the tank, the higher the chances of something going wrong.

 

[martonic]

Thank you very much for all the sensible advice. Hydor ETH 300 it is.

 

[theotheragentm]

For the Rena XP3 or any cannister filter, you can get some bioballs or rings for bio filtration. For spare baskets, I just cram it with polyester stuffing from Walmart or any craft store. It's a lot cheaper and does a decent job filtering additionally. I toss it after a month when I clean my filter.

 

[Alshain]

55 gallons of water with a heater that failed will slowly loose it's temp. It's not like 5 or 10 minutes it's down by 10 degrees, so having a heater fail to heat is not a big concern IMO.

It also depends heavily on where you live. I live it Texas so my heater really only turns on between November and February. Heaters will fail faster the more often they turn off and on, its just how electronics work in general.