Does leaving tank hood open cause ammonia to get to .25?

[shynepo3]

I'm asking cause my two tanks alwYs read between 0-0.25. The nitrates read 10-20ppm. They are both cycled, but for the love of god, the reading is never at 0. My tap water has a bit of amm. And sometimes I feed a bit sloppy. Ever since summer began, the tanks temp would get hot , 84, so I started leaving the hod open.

Does anyone get slight ammonia readings in their tanks? Only 1betta in each tank, 5 and 10 gal. The female seems to excrete a lot more waste in the 5 gal.

 

[Flossie]

I'm asking cause my two tanks alwYs read between 0-0.25. The nitrates read 10-20ppm. They are both cycled, but for the love of god, the reading is never at 0. My tap water has a bit of amm. And sometimes I feed a bit sloppy. Ever since summer began, the tanks temp would get hot , 84, so I started leaving the hod open.

Does anyone get slight ammonia readings in their tanks? Only 1betta in each tank, 5 and 10 gal. The female seems to excrete a lot more waste in the 5 gal.

Sometimes the ammo looks like .25 on the card but if u have ammonia readings in your tap as i do..... U need to use an ammonia neutralizer like the product by aqueon or a product called prime. Hope I helped some

 

[jetajockey]

no, leaving the hood open isnt going to cause an ammonia spike, however a temperature spike can cause a minicycle. I suggest increasing aeration if possible.

 

[shynepo3]

no, leaving the hood open isnt going to cause an ammonia spike, however a temperature spike can cause a minicycle. I suggest increasing aeration if possible.

u mean a bubble wand?

it's a betta tank..so i don't have much movement, except for the filter..it's not that busy either, marina s10 and s15

 

[jcolon]

I'm asking cause my two tanks alwYs read between 0-0.25. The nitrates read 10-20ppm. They are both cycled, but for the love of god, the reading is never at 0.

As jetajockey said, leaving your hood open doesn't increase ammo and some extra aeration's always a good thing ... if possible.

In all honestly ... I see nothing wrong with your numbers ... they read like the numbers in my tank. If your fish look happy, aren't gulping for air at the surface, eating ok, color's good, gill look normal and not breathing rapidly .. then your good. If your using the API test master kit, the 0-0.25 color range is hard to read at times.

 

[shynepo3]

i just read your ammonia link jetajockey, and i'm not too worried anymore..lol

 

[shynepo3]

As jetajockey said, leaving your hood open doesn't increase ammo and some extra aeration's always a good thing ... if possible.

In all honestly ... I see nothing wrong with your numbers ... they read like the numbers in my tank. If your fish look happy, aren't gulping for air at the surface, eating ok, color's good, gill look normal and not breathing rapidly .. then your good. If your using the API test master kit, the 0-0.25 color range is hard to read at times.

yeah..i think i'm just being paranoid...i keep posting things here in this forum when i see something off, lol...but reading that whole ammonia chart jetajockey did has put me at ease...cause the readings are definiteily not over 0.25...

fish are acting fine too. thanks

 

[jetajockey]

I would still make an effort to rectify the problem that caused the raised ammonia level. Higher temperature water has a lower level of dissolved oxygen in it, so a increase in temperature can hurt the bacteria colony and in turn show elevated ammonia levels.

If you don't have an air pump running on the tank I suggest getting one. It doesn't have to be a bubble wand but it needs to be something to agitate the water.

Using the chart is all well and good, but you have to keep a close eye on your #s because you may be safe today and not tomorrow, unless you can figure out the cause of your issue.