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Old 06-14-2005, 11:08 PM   #11
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Yea but remember cupramine treatment will require lots of water changes as the biofilter is zapped just like Ich. You will be fighting an ammonia battle. Hypo is much easier IMO, as you can use liverock or another biofilter and not have the constant water change / ammonia burden. It is also not stressful to the fish because of this and the lack of copper. I borrowed a refractometer from a nice member here, perhaps you can borrow one. Or you could always buy and resell on ebay and get most your money back - meaning in the end it's cheaper than cupramine!

Also, if you are going to wait and treat when you get back in 10 or so days - if you keep the temp in the 80s you may want to lower it some slowly to the low 70s. This may slow down the parasite a wee bit and help give the fish an edge. Just lower it slowly, no more than about 2 degrees per day. Ich moves fastest at around 86F. You can then raise the temp to 85F when tank's empty to speed its life cycle.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
They do make those "reef safe" meds look very tempting. If anyone ever succeeds in making one that actually works they'll probably make a killing on it. I know I'd pay a high price for it.
The problem is how do you effectively kill one tiny bad invert, ICH, while not killing the other good - your biofilter, liverock, corals???

I
Quote:
Today if I didn't know to look for them I probably wouldn't even realize he has ich - only a few spots.
Thats a good sign, he should be fine till you get back and treat. Yes, I would start the QT as I said, it will only make it easier for you when you return. Plus if you order (or borrow) a refractometer, it should be there when you return. You will be ready to go. Put several hunks of extra liverock in if you can, that will eliminate a big cycle and you probably won't be able to measure ammonia with fish in there. Worked great for me. The only time liverock has to come out is when using meds, it will absorb meds which is not good. You can also use a power filter or skimmer, does not affect hypo at all.

PS - don't dip him, with few spots it's not warranted, he will be fine for 10 days, keep the water quality high (a few water changes would be a good idea as it would both reduce the parasites in the water and improve the water quality), keep the temp med to low (~70's), and feed vitamins & garlic - this combined will give the fish an edge so you can vacation worry-free.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:36 PM   #13
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I have treated with both and for ich, I prefer hypo. Much of your biofilter will survive, but keep a close eye on PH. It will take a dive and you will have to buffer.
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Old 06-25-2005, 09:41 PM   #14
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Well, we're back. Had a great time but unfortunately the tank had a few mishaps in my absence. I'm going to make a new post in the "General Discussion" forum but for anyone who was following this thread I no longer have to QT my fish. They were taken out by something other than ich.
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Old 06-25-2005, 11:17 PM   #15
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Awww, I'm so sorry. If it took everything out that fast, then it was probably velvet. Been there, done that.
You best move now would be to leave the tank fishless for a full 8 weeks and then start over QTing all your new fish as you get them.
Here is an article about marine velvet. I would bet that was the culprit.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showqu...q=2&fldAuto=46
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