Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > Saltwater and Reef > Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 10-03-2004, 09:45 PM   #21
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 1,744
Okie...

So, the only way in which the corals could cause harm to my tank or fish, would be if my fish nibbled the corals (which corals are poisonous? I'll stay away from these if you can tell me which ones they are), or if the corals basically killed eachother and created an ammonia spike. Will I get plenty of notice that my coral is dying, so that I can act and try and save it? Or at the very worst, take it out and put it out of its misery so it doesn't create an ammonia spike in my tank?

And, re. fouling the water by not feeding correctly, would the phytoplankton on a weekly basis not cause any water quality issues and be adequate for the corals?

How exactly do I "run carbon"?

And, I have my standard white light (2 x 39w 36" T5 tubes) on for 12 hours a day, 2pm - 2am. If I decided to get the same amount of lighting again but in Actinic, when would you suggest turning off the white and turning on the Actinic? Or would you put them both on at the same time, effectively doubling the lighting? Or a mixture of both? If I did this would I be able to keep the vast majority of corals?

The only thing I'd be worried about is my tank temperature. When I upgraded my lighting to the T5, my temp has become quite a bit higher (between 27.3°C and 28.2°C each day; it was at 25.5 - 26.5 before). It's stable, but the lighting does affect it quite a lot. I guess adding an extra 2 Actinic T5 tubes would make it even warmer still, and could push it over the limit (I don't want it to get over 28.7°C)...

Also, as you know, my flow isn't as good as it could be (I have 2 x Maxijet 600lph in my 35g tank), although I did have more initially but decided it was too much (these are now being used on my QT and waterchange tanks) - the fish and plants were getting turbulently blown around and the higher power powerheads were quite a bit louder. It seems fine now - just the right flow. My filter also constantly blows out water quite violently. Do you think I'd have enough flow to keep the majority of corals, or would I definitely need to add a couple more maxijet 600s? I dont want to really if I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance guys!
__________________

__________________
MarkW19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2004, 11:43 PM   #22
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW19
Okie...

So, the only way in which the corals could cause harm to my tank or fish, would be if my fish nibbled the corals (which corals are poisonous? I'll stay away from these if you can tell me which ones they are), or if the corals basically killed eachother and created an ammonia spike. Will I get plenty of notice that my coral is dying, so that I can act and try and save it? Or at the very worst, take it out and put it out of its misery so it doesn't create an ammonia spike in my tank?
The fish being poisoned as a result of the corals is extremely rare. The only reason I mentioned it was it was a possibility although small. I would put that out of your mind for now.

Coral necrosis is quite easy to spot and as long as you inspect your tank regularly you should have plenty of notice. Most corals are usually salvagable in some way.

Quote:
And, re. fouling the water by not feeding correctly, would the phytoplankton on a weekly basis not cause any water quality issues and be adequate for the corals?
As long as you don't overdo it, yes weekly feedings would be just fine.

Quote:
How exactly do I "run carbon"?
Add it to a media basket in your canister filter or something similar. Use a filter sock if necessary.


Quote:
And, I have my standard white light (2 x 39w 36" T5 tubes) on for 12 hours a day, 2pm - 2am. If I decided to get the same amount of lighting again but in Actinic, when would you suggest turning off the white and turning on the Actinic? Or would you put them both on at the same time, effectively doubling the lighting? Or a mixture of both? If I did this would I be able to keep the vast majority of corals?
You must work late ... LOL

A dawn/dusk effect is usually best. Having the actinics be your longest photoperiod. Sub the time the whites are on for the actinics and just run the whites from 3:00 pm to 1:00 am.

Quote:
The only thing I'd be worried about is my tank temperature. When I upgraded my lighting to the T5, my temp has become quite a bit higher (between 27.3°C and 28.2°C each day; it was at 25.5 - 26.5 before). It's stable, but the lighting does affect it quite a lot. I guess adding an extra 2 Actinic T5 tubes would make it even warmer still, and could push it over the limit (I don't want it to get over 28.7°C)...
The heat issue is easily dealt with if you have fans pulling air out from the light hood. If not be sure the tank has no glass (or solid) lid to trap heat and possible get a floor fan that will keep stale warm air from accumulating. The best temp range would be just shy of 27°.

Quote:
Also, as you know, my flow isn't as good as it could be (I have 2 x Maxijet 600lph in my 35g tank), although I did have more initially but decided it was too much (these are now being used on my QT and waterchange tanks) - the fish and plants were getting turbulently blown around and the higher power powerheads were quite a bit louder. It seems fine now - just the right flow. My filter also constantly blows out water quite violently. Do you think I'd have enough flow to keep the majority of corals, or would I definitely need to add a couple more maxijet 600s? I dont want to really if I can avoid it.
2x MJ 600's plus your filter is just fine for that size tank as long as you stick with soft and LPS corals. They do not do as well in higher flow settings. If your lighting ever permits the addition of SPS's, then you'll need more.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2004, 03:48 AM   #23
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Suffolk, UK
Posts: 272
I've just finished reading that Eric Borneman book, excellent read & it really does cover all angles of coral keeping....

In regards to temps the "average" temp of all reefs is 81f (27.2C) & the book says that most corals start to bleach after a 5f temp swing. It also states a more natural temp to keep your reef at is between 80-84f, so if you acclimatise your new corals corectly & you keep your temps around the 27-28 mark you should have no problems.

Cheers Shelton.
__________________
30gal tank, 20kgs Fiji + 4kgs Madagascan LR, bare bottom, 2 x Maxijets 900, AquaC Remora skimmer, 10W D&D UV using a spraybar on surface for return,Maxijet 600 + spraybar behind LR, Ecco 2234 running RowaPhos/GAC, 150w visitherm.
Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

IKS with temp & PH probes, controlling lights,heat & cooling fans.


Percula Clown; Banggai Cardinal; Firefish; Mandarin
2 Cleaner Shrimps; 3 Peppermint Shrimps; 1 Blood Shrimp
1 Large Feather Duster; 1 Hard Tube Coco Worm; Yellow Cucumber.
6 Red Legged Hermits; 1 Green Emerald Crab; 16 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermits; 3 Zebra Hermits; 3 Popsock Hermits
22 Turbo/Astrae Snails; 20 IO Snails
Shultz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2004, 03:14 PM   #24
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 1,744
Cheers guys: Shelton, looks like I'll be ok with the temps then!

Steve: How often would I have to replace the carbon in the filter, and is it totally neccessary (would it help a lot)?

And re. lights, what about actinics from 2pm - 6pm, then whites from 6pm - 11pm, and finally actinics from 11pm - 2am. All lights off from 2am - 2pm? This way I won't have them both on at the same time (so it won't add to my heat issue). Would you suggest anything better?
__________________
MarkW19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2004, 03:28 PM   #25
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Suffolk, UK
Posts: 272
Can't help with the lights as I just have 4xT5 aquablue+ (60/40mix intube) but I have my lights on from 8am until 7.30pm, then the moonlights are on until midnight, total darkness for 4 hours & then the moonlights come back on until 8am again...

I run an Ehiem Ecco2334 on my tank & I have a large prefilter in the bottom, rowaphos middle & GAC top with polyfilter in above it, I change it all once every 3 weeks & use 6 heaped table spoons of GAC in there & 250ml of rowa...

Cheers Shelton.
__________________
30gal tank, 20kgs Fiji + 4kgs Madagascan LR, bare bottom, 2 x Maxijets 900, AquaC Remora skimmer, 10W D&D UV using a spraybar on surface for return,Maxijet 600 + spraybar behind LR, Ecco 2234 running RowaPhos/GAC, 150w visitherm.
Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

IKS with temp & PH probes, controlling lights,heat & cooling fans.


Percula Clown; Banggai Cardinal; Firefish; Mandarin
2 Cleaner Shrimps; 3 Peppermint Shrimps; 1 Blood Shrimp
1 Large Feather Duster; 1 Hard Tube Coco Worm; Yellow Cucumber.
6 Red Legged Hermits; 1 Green Emerald Crab; 16 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermits; 3 Zebra Hermits; 3 Popsock Hermits
22 Turbo/Astrae Snails; 20 IO Snails
Shultz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2004, 10:08 PM   #26
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW19
Steve: How often would I have to replace the carbon in the filter, and is it totally neccessary (would it help a lot)?
I just change mine every few months. It really depends on the the carbon used, conditions of the tank and other means of export employed. There is no "pat" answer, to many considerations. You can only use a small amount weekly run for a day or two, leave it in 24/7 or not use it at all. If you have soft corals and the like, personally I would recommend it's use although it's not an absolutely necessary item. The greatest benefit to carbon is it removes problems you cannot see or detect before they can affect the health of the tank.

Quote:
And re. lights, what about actinics from 2pm - 6pm, then whites from 6pm - 11pm, and finally actinics from 11pm - 2am. All lights off from 2am - 2pm? This way I won't have them both on at the same time (so it won't add to my heat issue). Would you suggest anything better?
You'll have better success with coral health if you can adapt the tank using both lights overlapping times. The greater intensity of light (corals depending) will offer better growth, more vibrant colors and less health issues. Personally I'd solve the heat issue as apposed to the light shceme you've proposed. If you're going to stick with just running the whites and actinic seperately, then I wouldn't add the additional light. There would be no benefit to the tank.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 03:03 PM   #27
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 1,744
So the carbon will really only affect and help the health of the corals? Will it help water quality and fish health in general?

And, re. lights, I will sort out the heat issue and overlap the actinics and whites as you suggest. What timeframes for both of the lights would you suggest during the day? My main viewing time is from 6pm - 11pm, so if I could have the "best" and most pleasing light then, what else would you suggest before and after these times?

And, are there any fans you can get that fix in the hood to blow hot air out??

Cheers,

Mark
__________________
MarkW19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 03:36 PM   #28
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Suffolk, UK
Posts: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW19

And, are there any fans you can get that fix in the hood to blow hot air out??

Cheers,

Mark
I have 2 x 120mm computer fans hooked to a 12v dc supply (but running at 9v to lower the noise). Most people suggest they blow in & across the water to add evap/cooling & they last longer than way too!

I used to have them on a timer so they were on all the time during my main lighting period, now I have an IKS it only turns them on when the temp rises to a point set by me, so they are on even less

Cheers Shelton.
__________________
30gal tank, 20kgs Fiji + 4kgs Madagascan LR, bare bottom, 2 x Maxijets 900, AquaC Remora skimmer, 10W D&D UV using a spraybar on surface for return,Maxijet 600 + spraybar behind LR, Ecco 2234 running RowaPhos/GAC, 150w visitherm.
Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

IKS with temp & PH probes, controlling lights,heat & cooling fans.


Percula Clown; Banggai Cardinal; Firefish; Mandarin
2 Cleaner Shrimps; 3 Peppermint Shrimps; 1 Blood Shrimp
1 Large Feather Duster; 1 Hard Tube Coco Worm; Yellow Cucumber.
6 Red Legged Hermits; 1 Green Emerald Crab; 16 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermits; 3 Zebra Hermits; 3 Popsock Hermits
22 Turbo/Astrae Snails; 20 IO Snails
Shultz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 06:33 PM   #29
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 1,744
Cheers Shelton, I'd rather not have it blowing across the water though (dont want to be bothered about top-off :P)...

Do you think it'd be effective just blowing across the lights and inside in the lid (there's a hole I've made at the right hand side of the lid, so perhaps if I fix the fan on the left somewhere? Do you think this arrangement would still create more evaporation though, although it's not directly blowing onto the water?
__________________
MarkW19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 01:13 AM   #30
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW19
So the carbon will really only affect and help the health of the corals? Will it help water quality and fish health in general?
Both, carbon is one of those "general purpose" products.

Quote:
And, re. lights, I will sort out the heat issue and overlap the actinics and whites as you suggest. What timeframes for both of the lights would you suggest during the day? My main viewing time is from 6pm - 11pm, so if I could have the "best" and most pleasing light then, what else would you suggest before and after these times?
If your not really viewing the tank after 11 pm there's no real reason to have them on much later than that. I would opt for a 12ish hr period for the actinic and a 10 hr period for the daylights.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
coral, corals, first coral

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What else do i need to get my first corals? hemmer Saltwater Reef Aquaria 5 04-29-2009 06:26 PM
New Corals OniTweak New Acquisitions 6 12-31-2008 07:34 AM
Corals stinging other corals?? xxnonamexx Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral 4 10-13-2005 12:19 PM
Ok, soft corals, hard corals, What's the difference? Obmanta Saltwater Reef Aquaria 2 10-10-2005 06:12 AM
Getting into Corals maxamillion Saltwater Reef Aquaria 6 05-04-2005 05:15 PM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.