First corals...

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Okie...

So, the only way in which the corals could cause harm to my tank or fish, would be if my fish nibbled the corals (which corals are poisonous? I'll stay away from these if you can tell me which ones they are), or if the corals basically killed eachother and created an ammonia spike. Will I get plenty of notice that my coral is dying, so that I can act and try and save it? Or at the very worst, take it out and put it out of its misery so it doesn't create an ammonia spike in my tank?

And, re. fouling the water by not feeding correctly, would the phytoplankton on a weekly basis not cause any water quality issues and be adequate for the corals?

How exactly do I "run carbon"?

And, I have my standard white light (2 x 39w 36" T5 tubes) on for 12 hours a day, 2pm - 2am. If I decided to get the same amount of lighting again but in Actinic, when would you suggest turning off the white and turning on the Actinic? Or would you put them both on at the same time, effectively doubling the lighting? Or a mixture of both? If I did this would I be able to keep the vast majority of corals?

The only thing I'd be worried about is my tank temperature. When I upgraded my lighting to the T5, my temp has become quite a bit higher (between 27.3°C and 28.2°C each day; it was at 25.5 - 26.5 before). It's stable, but the lighting does affect it quite a lot. I guess adding an extra 2 Actinic T5 tubes would make it even warmer still, and could push it over the limit (I don't want it to get over 28.7°C)...

Also, as you know, my flow isn't as good as it could be (I have 2 x Maxijet 600lph in my 35g tank), although I did have more initially but decided it was too much (these are now being used on my QT and waterchange tanks) - the fish and plants were getting turbulently blown around and the higher power powerheads were quite a bit louder. It seems fine now - just the right flow. My filter also constantly blows out water quite violently. Do you think I'd have enough flow to keep the majority of corals, or would I definitely need to add a couple more maxijet 600s? I dont want to really if I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance guys!
 
MarkW19 said:
Okie...

So, the only way in which the corals could cause harm to my tank or fish, would be if my fish nibbled the corals (which corals are poisonous? I'll stay away from these if you can tell me which ones they are), or if the corals basically killed eachother and created an ammonia spike. Will I get plenty of notice that my coral is dying, so that I can act and try and save it? Or at the very worst, take it out and put it out of its misery so it doesn't create an ammonia spike in my tank?
The fish being poisoned as a result of the corals is extremely rare. The only reason I mentioned it was it was a possibility although small. I would put that out of your mind for now.

Coral necrosis is quite easy to spot and as long as you inspect your tank regularly you should have plenty of notice. Most corals are usually salvagable in some way.

And, re. fouling the water by not feeding correctly, would the phytoplankton on a weekly basis not cause any water quality issues and be adequate for the corals?
As long as you don't overdo it, yes weekly feedings would be just fine.

How exactly do I "run carbon"?
Add it to a media basket in your canister filter or something similar. Use a filter sock if necessary.


And, I have my standard white light (2 x 39w 36" T5 tubes) on for 12 hours a day, 2pm - 2am. If I decided to get the same amount of lighting again but in Actinic, when would you suggest turning off the white and turning on the Actinic? Or would you put them both on at the same time, effectively doubling the lighting? Or a mixture of both? If I did this would I be able to keep the vast majority of corals?
You must work late ... LOL :wink:

A dawn/dusk effect is usually best. Having the actinics be your longest photoperiod. Sub the time the whites are on for the actinics and just run the whites from 3:00 pm to 1:00 am.

The only thing I'd be worried about is my tank temperature. When I upgraded my lighting to the T5, my temp has become quite a bit higher (between 27.3°C and 28.2°C each day; it was at 25.5 - 26.5 before). It's stable, but the lighting does affect it quite a lot. I guess adding an extra 2 Actinic T5 tubes would make it even warmer still, and could push it over the limit (I don't want it to get over 28.7°C)...
The heat issue is easily dealt with if you have fans pulling air out from the light hood. If not be sure the tank has no glass (or solid) lid to trap heat and possible get a floor fan that will keep stale warm air from accumulating. The best temp range would be just shy of 27°.

Also, as you know, my flow isn't as good as it could be (I have 2 x Maxijet 600lph in my 35g tank), although I did have more initially but decided it was too much (these are now being used on my QT and waterchange tanks) - the fish and plants were getting turbulently blown around and the higher power powerheads were quite a bit louder. It seems fine now - just the right flow. My filter also constantly blows out water quite violently. Do you think I'd have enough flow to keep the majority of corals, or would I definitely need to add a couple more maxijet 600s? I dont want to really if I can avoid it.
2x MJ 600's plus your filter is just fine for that size tank as long as you stick with soft and LPS corals. They do not do as well in higher flow settings. If your lighting ever permits the addition of SPS's, then you'll need more.

Cheers
Steve
 
I've just finished reading that Eric Borneman book, excellent read & it really does cover all angles of coral keeping....

In regards to temps the "average" temp of all reefs is 81f (27.2C) & the book says that most corals start to bleach after a 5f temp swing. It also states a more natural temp to keep your reef at is between 80-84f, so if you acclimatise your new corals corectly & you keep your temps around the 27-28 mark you should have no problems.

Cheers Shelton.
 
Cheers guys: Shelton, looks like I'll be ok with the temps then!

Steve: How often would I have to replace the carbon in the filter, and is it totally neccessary (would it help a lot)?

And re. lights, what about actinics from 2pm - 6pm, then whites from 6pm - 11pm, and finally actinics from 11pm - 2am. All lights off from 2am - 2pm? This way I won't have them both on at the same time (so it won't add to my heat issue). Would you suggest anything better?
 
Can't help with the lights as I just have 4xT5 aquablue+ (60/40mix intube) but I have my lights on from 8am until 7.30pm, then the moonlights are on until midnight, total darkness for 4 hours & then the moonlights come back on until 8am again...

I run an Ehiem Ecco2334 on my tank & I have a large prefilter in the bottom, rowaphos middle & GAC top with polyfilter in above it, I change it all once every 3 weeks & use 6 heaped table spoons of GAC in there & 250ml of rowa...

Cheers Shelton.
 
MarkW19 said:
Steve: How often would I have to replace the carbon in the filter, and is it totally neccessary (would it help a lot)?
I just change mine every few months. It really depends on the the carbon used, conditions of the tank and other means of export employed. There is no "pat" answer, to many considerations. You can only use a small amount weekly run for a day or two, leave it in 24/7 or not use it at all. If you have soft corals and the like, personally I would recommend it's use although it's not an absolutely necessary item. The greatest benefit to carbon is it removes problems you cannot see or detect before they can affect the health of the tank.

And re. lights, what about actinics from 2pm - 6pm, then whites from 6pm - 11pm, and finally actinics from 11pm - 2am. All lights off from 2am - 2pm? This way I won't have them both on at the same time (so it won't add to my heat issue). Would you suggest anything better?
You'll have better success with coral health if you can adapt the tank using both lights overlapping times. The greater intensity of light (corals depending) will offer better growth, more vibrant colors and less health issues. Personally I'd solve the heat issue as apposed to the light shceme you've proposed. If you're going to stick with just running the whites and actinic seperately, then I wouldn't add the additional light. There would be no benefit to the tank.

Cheers
Steve
 
So the carbon will really only affect and help the health of the corals? Will it help water quality and fish health in general?

And, re. lights, I will sort out the heat issue and overlap the actinics and whites as you suggest. What timeframes for both of the lights would you suggest during the day? My main viewing time is from 6pm - 11pm, so if I could have the "best" and most pleasing light then, what else would you suggest before and after these times?

And, are there any fans you can get that fix in the hood to blow hot air out??

Cheers,

Mark
 
MarkW19 said:
And, are there any fans you can get that fix in the hood to blow hot air out??

Cheers,

Mark

I have 2 x 120mm computer fans hooked to a 12v dc supply (but running at 9v to lower the noise). Most people suggest they blow in & across the water to add evap/cooling & they last longer than way too!

I used to have them on a timer so they were on all the time during my main lighting period, now I have an IKS it only turns them on when the temp rises to a point set by me, so they are on even less :)

Cheers Shelton.
 
Cheers Shelton, I'd rather not have it blowing across the water though (dont want to be bothered about top-off :p)...

Do you think it'd be effective just blowing across the lights and inside in the lid (there's a hole I've made at the right hand side of the lid, so perhaps if I fix the fan on the left somewhere? Do you think this arrangement would still create more evaporation though, although it's not directly blowing onto the water?
 
MarkW19 said:
So the carbon will really only affect and help the health of the corals? Will it help water quality and fish health in general?
Both, carbon is one of those "general purpose" products.

And, re. lights, I will sort out the heat issue and overlap the actinics and whites as you suggest. What timeframes for both of the lights would you suggest during the day? My main viewing time is from 6pm - 11pm, so if I could have the "best" and most pleasing light then, what else would you suggest before and after these times?
If your not really viewing the tank after 11 pm there's no real reason to have them on much later than that. I would opt for a 12ish hr period for the actinic and a 10 hr period for the daylights.

Cheers
Steve
 
MarkW19 said:
Cheers Shelton, I'd rather not have it blowing across the water though (dont want to be bothered about top-off :p)...

Do you think it'd be effective just blowing across the lights and inside in the lid (there's a hole I've made at the right hand side of the lid, so perhaps if I fix the fan on the left somewhere? Do you think this arrangement would still create more evaporation though, although it's not directly blowing onto the water?
Actually the fan would be much more efficient pulling air out from the lights rather than in. The heat will then be removed rather than forced through the hood over the water area.

Cheers
Steve
 
MarkW19 said:
Cheers Shelton, I'd rather not have it blowing across the water though (dont want to be bothered about top-off :p)...

Do you think it'd be effective just blowing across the lights and inside in the lid (there's a hole I've made at the right hand side of the lid, so perhaps if I fix the fan on the left somewhere? Do you think this arrangement would still create more evaporation though, although it's not directly blowing onto the water?

Well mine don't actually blow onto the water directly, they are mounted on the back & there are varios places air can escape including 2 air vents I now have cut in the top.

The evap created is the cooling effect so it depends on whether you need to cool your tank? I have a 30gal & I suppose I add between 1-2 ltrs topup per day?

But my temps are now stable between 80f & 81.5f.....

Cheers Shelton.
 
Wow 8O . Reading this topic is like reading a page of talmud. Good discussion guys.
thumb.gif
 
steve-s said:
Actually the fan would be much more efficient pulling air out from the lights rather than in. The heat will then be removed rather than forced through the hood over the water area.

Cheers
Steve

The fans wear out a damn sight quicker & you have to watch what is behind the fans as its damp salty air being thrown out....

I'm sure I read somewhere that someone tried the fans both ways & found he got lower temps with them blowing air in though?

Cheers Shelton.
 
Shultz said:
The fans wear out a darn sight quicker & you have to watch what is behind the fans as its damp salty air being thrown out....
That really depends on the overall setup of the hood. If the fans are at the end of the hood and pulling air along the horizontal length, it does not add or detract from the tanks temp but simpley removes the hot air from the hood (it creates a venturi of sorts) before it has a chance to heat the water. This also requires an acrylic shield enclosing the lights preventing evap from being sucked into the mechanics. If there was no shield enclosing the lights, then you'd be correct about the damp air affecting the longevity of the fans. Another option is having a fan at each end with intake holes in the middle top of the hood or vice versa. This only works with non MH set ups though.

With an MH set up I would definately not suggest having the fans blow across the bulbs as it will affect the colors the lights give off. I know we are not talking about MH but though it should be mentioned.

I'm sure I read somewhere that someone tried the fans both ways & found he got lower temps with them blowing air in though?
Could be you have. I have mounted the fan on my hood both ways and have found that air being pulled out cools the hood more efficiently. If the method you use works for you, there's no reason to alter that. I am just offering an alternative.

Cheers
Steve
 
Of course! thats the idea, no one person is totally right or wrong, hopefully those reading will go try thsese things for themselves & find out which works best for them :)

Cheers Shelton.
 
So leaving the actinics on for 1 hour alone either side of the 10 hours? Then both actinic/whites on for 10 hours (a total of 12 hours)?

I do stay up until 2am on a lot of days so I'm thinking...

2pm - 3pm just actinics, 3pm - 1am actinics and whites, 1am - 2am just actinics.

That OK?
 
MarkW19 said:
So leaving the actinics on for 1 hour alone either side of the 10 hours? Then both actinic/whites on for 10 hours (a total of 12 hours)?
Correct.

I do stay up until 2am on a lot of days so I'm thinking...

2pm - 3pm just actinics, 3pm - 1am actinics and whites, 1am - 2am just actinics.

That OK?
The later times make no difference to corals really but the extened late hours can sometimes make an stressful impact on fish over time. Keep in mind that as dawn comes so does ambient light and fish will become active even if corals do not. If possible, I would suggest some moonlights added into the mix which would still allow for "subdued" late night viewing.

Cheers
Steve
 
So I'd need actinics, whites, AND moonlights? ;)

2pm - 3pm just actinics, 3pm - 11.30pm actinics/whites, just moonlights from 11.30pm - 1am, just actinics from 1am - 2am. Is this a good arrangement?

Otherwise, if I don't get the moonlights, just shift the whole thing back to between 12pm and 12am?

Can you get T5 moonlight tubes? Or tubes that are the same size as T5 tubes? And do I need a particular wattage (should I get 2 moonlight tubes) for the corals etc., or will the coral lighting mainly be done with the actinics and actinics/whites, therefore the moonlights are just for my late-night viewing pleasure? ;)

On a side-note, do T5 actinic tubes get as hot as the white ones?
 
I thought actinics were moonlights? On the Arcadia site "Marine Blue Actinic T5 re-creates moonlight ambience" ...

So, what if I have 3 hours of actinics on their own at the end of the lighting period instead of 1, and forget the moonlights?
 
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