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Old 10-06-2004, 01:16 AM   #31
steve-s
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Originally Posted by MarkW19
Cheers Shelton, I'd rather not have it blowing across the water though (dont want to be bothered about top-off :P)...

Do you think it'd be effective just blowing across the lights and inside in the lid (there's a hole I've made at the right hand side of the lid, so perhaps if I fix the fan on the left somewhere? Do you think this arrangement would still create more evaporation though, although it's not directly blowing onto the water?
Actually the fan would be much more efficient pulling air out from the lights rather than in. The heat will then be removed rather than forced through the hood over the water area.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-06-2004, 03:17 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW19
Cheers Shelton, I'd rather not have it blowing across the water though (dont want to be bothered about top-off :P)...

Do you think it'd be effective just blowing across the lights and inside in the lid (there's a hole I've made at the right hand side of the lid, so perhaps if I fix the fan on the left somewhere? Do you think this arrangement would still create more evaporation though, although it's not directly blowing onto the water?
Well mine don't actually blow onto the water directly, they are mounted on the back & there are varios places air can escape including 2 air vents I now have cut in the top.

The evap created is the cooling effect so it depends on whether you need to cool your tank? I have a 30gal & I suppose I add between 1-2 ltrs topup per day?

But my temps are now stable between 80f & 81.5f.....

Cheers Shelton.
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30gal tank, 20kgs Fiji + 4kgs Madagascan LR, bare bottom, 2 x Maxijets 900, AquaC Remora skimmer, 10W D&D UV using a spraybar on surface for return,Maxijet 600 + spraybar behind LR, Ecco 2234 running RowaPhos/GAC, 150w visitherm.
Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

IKS with temp & PH probes, controlling lights,heat & cooling fans.


Percula Clown; Banggai Cardinal; Firefish; Mandarin
2 Cleaner Shrimps; 3 Peppermint Shrimps; 1 Blood Shrimp
1 Large Feather Duster; 1 Hard Tube Coco Worm; Yellow Cucumber.
6 Red Legged Hermits; 1 Green Emerald Crab; 16 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermits; 3 Zebra Hermits; 3 Popsock Hermits
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Old 10-06-2004, 09:49 AM   #33
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Wow 8O . Reading this topic is like reading a page of talmud. Good discussion guys.
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Old 10-06-2004, 09:55 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by steve-s
Actually the fan would be much more efficient pulling air out from the lights rather than in. The heat will then be removed rather than forced through the hood over the water area.

Cheers
Steve
The fans wear out a **** sight quicker & you have to watch what is behind the fans as its damp salty air being thrown out....

I'm sure I read somewhere that someone tried the fans both ways & found he got lower temps with them blowing air in though?

Cheers Shelton.
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30gal tank, 20kgs Fiji + 4kgs Madagascan LR, bare bottom, 2 x Maxijets 900, AquaC Remora skimmer, 10W D&D UV using a spraybar on surface for return,Maxijet 600 + spraybar behind LR, Ecco 2234 running RowaPhos/GAC, 150w visitherm.
Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

IKS with temp & PH probes, controlling lights,heat & cooling fans.


Percula Clown; Banggai Cardinal; Firefish; Mandarin
2 Cleaner Shrimps; 3 Peppermint Shrimps; 1 Blood Shrimp
1 Large Feather Duster; 1 Hard Tube Coco Worm; Yellow Cucumber.
6 Red Legged Hermits; 1 Green Emerald Crab; 16 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermits; 3 Zebra Hermits; 3 Popsock Hermits
22 Turbo/Astrae Snails; 20 IO Snails
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Old 10-06-2004, 12:07 PM   #35
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The fans wear out a darn sight quicker & you have to watch what is behind the fans as its damp salty air being thrown out....
That really depends on the overall setup of the hood. If the fans are at the end of the hood and pulling air along the horizontal length, it does not add or detract from the tanks temp but simpley removes the hot air from the hood (it creates a venturi of sorts) before it has a chance to heat the water. This also requires an acrylic shield enclosing the lights preventing evap from being sucked into the mechanics. If there was no shield enclosing the lights, then you'd be correct about the damp air affecting the longevity of the fans. Another option is having a fan at each end with intake holes in the middle top of the hood or vice versa. This only works with non MH set ups though.

With an MH set up I would definately not suggest having the fans blow across the bulbs as it will affect the colors the lights give off. I know we are not talking about MH but though it should be mentioned.

Quote:
I'm sure I read somewhere that someone tried the fans both ways & found he got lower temps with them blowing air in though?
Could be you have. I have mounted the fan on my hood both ways and have found that air being pulled out cools the hood more efficiently. If the method you use works for you, there's no reason to alter that. I am just offering an alternative.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-06-2004, 12:11 PM   #36
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Of course! thats the idea, no one person is totally right or wrong, hopefully those reading will go try thsese things for themselves & find out which works best for them

Cheers Shelton.
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30gal tank, 20kgs Fiji + 4kgs Madagascan LR, bare bottom, 2 x Maxijets 900, AquaC Remora skimmer, 10W D&D UV using a spraybar on surface for return,Maxijet 600 + spraybar behind LR, Ecco 2234 running RowaPhos/GAC, 150w visitherm.
Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

IKS with temp & PH probes, controlling lights,heat & cooling fans.


Percula Clown; Banggai Cardinal; Firefish; Mandarin
2 Cleaner Shrimps; 3 Peppermint Shrimps; 1 Blood Shrimp
1 Large Feather Duster; 1 Hard Tube Coco Worm; Yellow Cucumber.
6 Red Legged Hermits; 1 Green Emerald Crab; 16 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermits; 3 Zebra Hermits; 3 Popsock Hermits
22 Turbo/Astrae Snails; 20 IO Snails
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Old 10-06-2004, 03:17 PM   #37
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So leaving the actinics on for 1 hour alone either side of the 10 hours? Then both actinic/whites on for 10 hours (a total of 12 hours)?

I do stay up until 2am on a lot of days so I'm thinking...

2pm - 3pm just actinics, 3pm - 1am actinics and whites, 1am - 2am just actinics.

That OK?
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Old 10-06-2004, 04:32 PM   #38
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So leaving the actinics on for 1 hour alone either side of the 10 hours? Then both actinic/whites on for 10 hours (a total of 12 hours)?
Correct.

Quote:
I do stay up until 2am on a lot of days so I'm thinking...

2pm - 3pm just actinics, 3pm - 1am actinics and whites, 1am - 2am just actinics.

That OK?
The later times make no difference to corals really but the extened late hours can sometimes make an stressful impact on fish over time. Keep in mind that as dawn comes so does ambient light and fish will become active even if corals do not. If possible, I would suggest some moonlights added into the mix which would still allow for "subdued" late night viewing.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-06-2004, 05:45 PM   #39
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So I'd need actinics, whites, AND moonlights?

2pm - 3pm just actinics, 3pm - 11.30pm actinics/whites, just moonlights from 11.30pm - 1am, just actinics from 1am - 2am. Is this a good arrangement?

Otherwise, if I don't get the moonlights, just shift the whole thing back to between 12pm and 12am?

Can you get T5 moonlight tubes? Or tubes that are the same size as T5 tubes? And do I need a particular wattage (should I get 2 moonlight tubes) for the corals etc., or will the coral lighting mainly be done with the actinics and actinics/whites, therefore the moonlights are just for my late-night viewing pleasure?

On a side-note, do T5 actinic tubes get as hot as the white ones?
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Old 10-06-2004, 05:49 PM   #40
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I thought actinics were moonlights? On the Arcadia site "Marine Blue Actinic T5 re-creates moonlight ambience" ...

So, what if I have 3 hours of actinics on their own at the end of the lighting period instead of 1, and forget the moonlights?
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