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Old 10-18-2006, 11:00 PM   #31
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well i tried it out today but the bottom fitting didnt seem to want to hold lol. the top one i put in was fine but the bottom one didnt seal. so i got a bit of water on the floor. it seemd to push the water down and back up well considering there was a leak. i will redo the bottom fitting aith a stronger silicone and try again. the fitting i used are the right size for the hose and they fit well. but i just need a better deal between the container and them. maybe an epoxy rather than silicone. silicone doesnt bond well to plastic, even though i scratched it all up to give the silicone something to grab to.
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:05 AM   #32
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I'd recommend trying some Goop. It works great for affixing plastic airline fittings to PVC for DIY CO2 Reactors, should work just as well for what your doing. No problems with the tank inhabitants after it's cured properly either.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:17 AM   #33
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24 hour per mm of silcone is the best rule of thumb when it comes to curing........

Thats why you shouldnt fill a new tank for 2-3 weeks after manufacture. It was an agonising wait when i got my 240 gal. But gave me plenty of time to stain the stand! LOL
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:15 AM   #34
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This is a great thread. These ideas are like what I came up with too! One question though, do you run the pump inside the filter or outside.
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:27 PM   #35
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i ran mine in the aquarium. my powerhead i used didnt give me enought flow and i was to cheap to buy a better powerhead so i am not running the cannister. in the future when i have some spare cash i will do this again but on a larger scale.
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Old 11-27-2006, 01:32 PM   #36
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The main problem with an effective cannister filter is preventing media bypass. You want all the water to flow through each stage of filtration rather than slip past the outside of it all. This is why DIY tends not to be used on larger setups.
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