eatsomepopcorn
Aquarium Advice Freak
Some folks have suggested that on the return line from a mag 12 you should run flexible hose rather than rigid pvc to cut down on noise and potential breaks/leaks in the seams. What do you say?
Sump Plumbing PVC
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ccCapt
SW 20 & Over Club
Never heard that before.
Floyd R Turbo
Aquarium Advice Addict
Hmmm. I think using 3/4 ID flex hose just helps cut down on head pressure, a long turn 90 versus a sharp 90 is going to allow a better head pressure at the jet.
BigJim
Aquarium Advice Addict
If the PVC is properly primed and glued, it shouldn't leak. You're actually solvent welding the plastic together. There may be some truth to the noise claims during system startup, but I would think that once the system is up and running, both the tubing and the PVC should be pretty quiet.
OP
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eatsomepopcorn
Aquarium Advice Freak
If I do go with pvc, should I consider stringing some 45 degree angles instead of 90 degree angles or not concern myself?
BigJim
Aquarium Advice Addict
I don't think I'd bother. Not sure what size PVC you're running, but if it's 2"+, you could ask the hardware store for long sweep elbows if you're really worried.
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eatsomepopcorn
Aquarium Advice Freak
I will have dual overflows with 1 inch bulkheads. Should I run a single return pump or dual? If single, should I include a ball valve on each to control flow and shut off for maintenance. Finally, should I have a tee that sends water back into the sump if I reduce flow back to the tank to avoid pump damage?
BigJim
Aquarium Advice Addict
Just for clarification, are you planning on running a sump? I'm assuming so, but I haven't seen that expressed yet.
Good sump design dictates that if your return pump is off, your sump is large enough to hold all the water your overflows will drain from the display tank. The overflows should also be capable of handling more flow than the pump is able to generate. Neglecting either of these principles is just begging for a flood. Just some FYI.
I'd run one return pump. It just simplifies the whole installation. I would also run a return loop to control flow and back pressure. If you just use a ball valve to limit the pumps flow, you'll build up back pressure and the plumbing will start making noise. Think of it like capping the garden hose with your thumb.
Good sump design dictates that if your return pump is off, your sump is large enough to hold all the water your overflows will drain from the display tank. The overflows should also be capable of handling more flow than the pump is able to generate. Neglecting either of these principles is just begging for a flood. Just some FYI.
I'd run one return pump. It just simplifies the whole installation. I would also run a return loop to control flow and back pressure. If you just use a ball valve to limit the pumps flow, you'll build up back pressure and the plumbing will start making noise. Think of it like capping the garden hose with your thumb.
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eatsomepopcorn
Aquarium Advice Freak
It will be a sump. I was thinking of installing a T with a ball valve to allow water from the return pump to flow back into the return chamber in the event that I need to reduce flow a bit to my two return lines.
Floyd R Turbo
Aquarium Advice Addict
I would think that design would allow for a gravity siphon back from the return jets more than a 'pressure release' from the pump, and it's going to be hard to tweak that exactly where you think it should be. It is acceptable to just put the ball valve on the return side of the pump and adjust that as necessary. You just wouldn't want to put that valve on the pump's intake, that is bad for the impeller.
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