Advice Requested

[CatoeSc]

I have a 40 gallon planted tank and need advice on appropriate micro and macro ferts.

Setup:
40G Breeder
2 39w 6,000K bulbs on about 9 hrs
2 39w 650nm bulbs on about 9 hrs
Good water movement (Marineland c-360)
79 degrees

Plants: Amazon Sword, Anacharis, Balansae, Bananna, Blue Hygro, Red Ludwigia, Baby Tears, Red melon Sword, Micro Sword.

Issues: black edges and black spots on established plants, Balansae seems to simply be dying with blackening or withering leaves.

Had algae problem. Seems to be solved with good cleaning and addition of Siamese algae eaters.

Anacharis grows like crazy and stays beautifully green.

Currently dosing 3 times a week with Seacham's Aquavitro Envy. Started dosing with flourish excel yesterday.

 

[aqua_chem]

Do you have pictures of your problems? Sounds like BBA to me, likely stemming from the massive amount of unsupported light you have. 4xT5HO is way too much for a 40B without CO2 and dry ferts.

 

[CatoeSc]

I've posted some pics below. What is BBA?

 

[CatoeSc]

These were the best pics I can get of the issues. You can see the issue pretty well in most.

How do I correct?

 

[calfishguy]

I've posted some pics below. What is BBA?

Bba is black beard algae. I think you need to either look into a good feet system and get a pressurized co2 system or reduce your lighting to 2 bulbs if not more.

 

[aqua_chem]

As far as your immediate actions, I would cut the light in half to 2xT5HO, and possibly also reduce your photoperiod depending on what it is currently. I would continue the Excel treatment, maybe even bump it up to 1.5-2x dosage, and spot dose it directly onto affected areas. You can also use hydrogen peroxide for this if you like.

 

[Rivercats]

One thing to watch is you have anacharis which is very sensitive to Excel and can melt when using it.

 

[CatoeSc]

As far as your immediate actions, I would cut the light in half to 2xT5HO, and possibly also reduce your photoperiod depending on what it is currently. I would continue the Excel treatment, maybe even bump it up to 1.5-2x dosage, and spot dose it directly onto affected areas. You can also use hydrogen peroxide for this if you like.

Should I start a CO2 setup? Can you recommend something?

 

[CatoeSc]

One thing to watch is you have anacharis which is very sensitive to Excel and can melt when using it.

Ironic, those are the only things that have been growing like crazy. In fact, I've wondered if their insanely fast growth could be using up all my nutrients causing, in part, my other plants to suffer.

 

[Rivercats]

BBA's main cause IMO is too much light left on too long. The good thing is BBA responds well to spot treating with H2O2 or Excel.

Also since you have high light you need to be dosing dry ferts as they give you a balanced fert regime of micro and macro nutrients. You also need to be using CO2 or a higher dose of liquid carbon like Excel daily when you have high light.

 

[CatoeSc]

BBA's main cause IMO is too much light left on too long. The good thing is BBA responds well to spot treating with H2O2 or Excel.

Also since you have high light you need to be dosing dry ferts as they give you a balanced fert regime of micro and macro nutrients. You also need to be using CO2 or a higher dose of liquid carbon like Excel daily when you have high light.

Just as a jumping off point for me, can you recommend the right dry ferts? Maybe a good product and type?

Also, don't want a DYI CO2 setup, would like to just get a good, not overly expensive setup to do it. Is there anything I should be concerned about as far as accidentally putting in too MUCH CO2?

 

[Rivercats]

I don't use CO2 so can't help there. I run my high light heavily planted tank on liquid carbon only.

As for dry ferts I recommend... Micro & Macro | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums, It contains all the ferts you need. The PPS-Pro formula calls for MgSO4, magnesium but unless you have soft water you normally get plenty of magnesium in your tap water during WC's.

I also recommend 3 of these dosing bottles... Fertilizer Dispenser | 1000 mL (32 oz) | Green Leaf Aquariums. One bottle for micro's, one bottle for nitrates, and one bottle for phosphates and potassium. The PPS-Pro formula says to mix all the macro's (nitrates, phosphates, potassium) in one bottle but I've found that by seperating the macro's as above you can better adjust your macro ferts to the actual needs of your tank.

Here's a good thread to read. You only need to read the openning post not all the comments.... Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central.

 

[CatoeSc]

I don't use CO2 so can't help there. I run my high light heavily planted tank on liquid carbon only.

As for dry ferts I recommend... Micro & Macro | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums, It contains all the ferts you need. The PPS-Pro formula calls for MgSO4, magnesium but unless you have soft water you normally get plenty of magnesium in your tap water during WC's.

I also recommend 3 of these dosing bottles... Fertilizer Dispenser | 1000 mL (32 oz) | Green Leaf Aquariums. One bottle for micro's, one bottle for nitrates, and one bottle for phosphates and potassium. The PPS-Pro formula says to mix all the macro's (nitrates, phosphates, potassium) in one bottle but I've found that by seperating the macro's as above you can better adjust your macro ferts to the actual needs of your tank.

Here's a good thread to read. You only need to read the openning post not all the comments.... Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central.

Wow! I feel like I finally hit a gold mine. This is tons of great info. THANK YOU!! I'm ordering these ferts now - startin with the starter package, PPS-PRO Package. This is the most comprehensive advise I've gotten, or maybe just the best I am able to understand

As far as magnesium, I use RO water, so my guess is that I should use the magnesium. Which of the 2 methods discussed do you use or would you recommend for a beginner - PPS or EI? PPS seems pretty easier and doesn't depend on a large weekly water change.

Should I continue with Excel and/or get a CO2 system? I have some baby tears that I would like to cover, at least in patches, the bottom of the tank. I've read a lot of comments from others that they can't get it to grow into a carpet without the CO2 system.

 

[Rivercats]

Actually you might want to look into getting something like Seachems Equalibrum. You use it to readd minerals to RO water. I believe it has magnesium in it but you'd need to check. You need that or a similar product to get your Kh and Gh up to 4. It will ensure you have enough buffers in the tank to keep the ph stable. If there is no magnesium in the Equalibrum then you'd need to order and use it in your macro phosphate and potassium mix. Be sure to get three dosing bottles so you can mix them as I explained, not how the article does their macro's all in one bottle.

I like PPS-Pro because you use exactly what your plants need and can customize your ferts to the levels you want in your tank. I run a high phosphate- low nitrate tank because I have alot of non-green plants and they color best in this type custom dosing. It's worked great for me.

CO2 is a personal choice. I get great results using a high dose of liquid carbon daily in leu of CO2. But with your lights you need one or the other along with the dry ferts.

I've gotten carpet plants to grow without CO2 only using liquid carbon with my high light and dry ferts. I recently put in a new section of dwarf baby tears.

 

[CatoeSc]

Checked my KH and Gh. They are 7 and 179 (7 drops and 10 drops respectfully). I'm guessing I don't need to add the equilibrium, but please confirm. Being bran new to this, I thought I would just do the 2 bottles, then as I learn more, break out the 2nd an 3rd. Do you think that would work? How much liquid carbon do you dose per gallon daily? Any issues with sensitive fish?

 

[Rivercats]

Your Kh and Gh is fine so no you don't need the Equalibrum. You could start with the two bottles and go from there if that is how you want to do it, I just prefer being able to make adjustments to how much I use of which macro.

For Excel you want to start with 1ml per 10 gallons then with your high light go up to 1ml per 5 gallons after a couple weeks. You need more liquid carbon when you have higher lights and use dry ferts.

I dose liquid carbon very high and have no problems with fish, shrimp, or snails. But there are a small number of plants that are sensitive to liquid carbon such as Anacharis and Jungle Val.

 

[CatoeSc]

Thanks to some considerable "off-line" advice, I am preparing for a planted tank "REBOOT!"

Local fish stores don't have a great selection of plants. Any recommendation for on-line purchasing for quality plants?

 

[Rivercats]

I get most of mine from AquariumPlants.com but you can check AA's Classified section.

 

[CatoeSc]

I get most of mine from AquariumPlants.com but you can check AA's Classified section.

Thanks, I will check both out. Do you do root tabs along with these ferts, or will these be all I need?

 

[calfishguy]

Thanks, I will check both out. Do you do root tabs along with these ferts, or will these be all I need?

I could be wrong but root tabs will be needed for heavy root feeders. (Swords and crypts)