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Old 02-18-2008, 08:28 AM   #71
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Gobies are great addtions , as are the clowns and fire fish . Fire fish are known jumpers so keep a top on your tank. I have no direct experience with a six line but he should be ok in your tank..
As for long acclimations it can cause oxygen levels to fall and also cause a ph issue as well, it is good when acclimating them to do so quickly and carefully , around 20 -30 minutes and into the tank .... I have gone short with mine and into the tank with out ill effect on the shrimp .
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:55 AM   #72
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Gobies are great addtions , as are the clowns and fire fish . Fire fish are known jumpers so keep a top on your tank. I have no direct experience with a six line but he should be ok in your tank..
Don't forget... this is a 10g tank. A 6-line needs a bigger tank.

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As for long acclimations it can cause oxygen levels to fall and also cause a ph issue as well, it is good when acclimating them to do so quickly and carefully ,...
Agree... it's a fine line you have to walk. Also in the equation is how long the fish/coral/invert has been bagged up and in transport. Fish that come mail order need to get out quicker than a fish you got 5 minutes down the street. I base my decision on water temps and the salinity difference. (Another good reason for a refractometer! Try measuring water from a bag of water from the fish store using a swing arm!)
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:43 PM   #73
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Try measuring water from a bag of water from the fish store using a swing arm!)
BWHAAAAA that is not a nice suggestion . If you have a new person reading this do not try it , it wont work but it is a funny site to see it tried
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:48 PM   #74
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Actually I had a two hour drive in there, but the temp only got down to 74.3 degrees. I felt extremely stupid calling the store back and telling them what happened, I thought I was 100% sure about what I was doing....How many drips per secong do you want in a 30 minute acclimation. I no there is articles but can someone explain start to finish how to acclimate a shrimp?

I do not have a refracto meter but will definitely try to get one.

I just did all of my water tests and they are a bit confusing.

I did water tests 2 days before and ammonia-nitrite were at 0(have been for awile) and nitrate was at 15. pH was 8.2 temp at 75. When I did the test today ammonia was somehow at .25 nitrite 0 and nitrate 20!! pH 8.2 temp 75. Would these parameters have killed the shrimp in acclimation, or would it still be my acclimation methods fault?I think im gonna be too chicken to try a shrimp again w/o alot of help and advice.
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:26 PM   #75
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Actually I had a two hour drive in there, but the temp only got down to 74.3 degrees.
Again, temp isn't the only thing. Oxygen levels and pH levels drop as time goes on also. In addition, you have waste buildup happening from the normal life process of the shrimp/fish/coral.


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How many drips per secong do you want in a 30 minute acclimation. I no there is articles but can someone explain start to finish how to acclimate a shrimp
Drips per second is often quoted, but it really depends on how much water you're starting with. In my opinion, you want to double your water volume in your acclimation container every 30 minutes. Once you double the water volume, take out half the water and go another 30 minutes. If you're starting with a quart of water, your drips/second are going to be way less than if you started with a gallon of water. (Granted... no one acclimates with a gallon of water, but I was just trying to make a point!)

I'm just going from memory here, but I think I normally use about a quart of water from the bag, and drip around 4-5 drips per second.

Another thing I do is before opening the bag, I float the UNOPENED bag in my tank to bring the bag water back up to temp with my tank water, for maybe 10 minutes or so. Make sure your lights are off, or you'll heat the water up from just the lights.

Also... the ammonia you're detecting is definitely not good for anything, but I doubt those levels would've caused the shrimp to die that quickly. Just make sure your ammonia/nitrite levels are down to zero before adding anything. The ammonia could just be from not having enough biological filtration in the tank and it can't keep up with the bioload from the damsels.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:20 PM   #76
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So no matter the situation with the two hour drive, a 1.5 hour acclimation is just too long? Won't they experience more shock when dumped into the main aquarium?


With the method you use after the10 min float it only takes an hour?

Thinking about trying the shrimp again and go w/o fish. Does anything think i have what it takes to succussfully acclimate the shrimp? or am i a lost cause....
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Old 02-19-2008, 02:02 AM   #77
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So no matter the situation with the two hour drive, a 1.5 hour acclimation is just too long? Won't they experience more shock when dumped into the main aquarium?
I don't think anyone is saying to "dump" the thing into your tank. We're still saying to drip acclimate, but that 90 minutes is probably longer than it needs to be.

I'm not going to say "no matter the situation... it's too long", because as I said in my post, there's a lot I factor in when figuring how long to acclimate. There's no chart I'm using... it's just a gut feel. Yeah... I know you can't teach a "gut feel". But without proper equipment (refractometer... hint, hint) it's hard to really know how much acclimation you really need to do. For all you know, the LFS water could match yours spot on. And then again, you could keep yours at 1.022 and the LFS is at 1.027. Two very different scenarios requiring two very different acclimation times.

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With the method you use after the10 min float it only takes an hour?
I try to have whatever it is I'm acclimating in the tank an hour after I get in the door. Once you get a system down, it doesn't take long. Having everything ready to go (airline tubing for acclimation, buckets, etc) when you get in the door helps.

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Thinking about trying the shrimp again and go w/o fish. Does anything think i have what it takes to succussfully acclimate the shrimp? or am i a lost cause....
Nah... no one's a lost cause. The first thing in my tank was a cleaner shrimp. It was in there about 8 weeks before my clown was added. Shrimp are a blast and have huge personalities. I think you just got unlucky with your first one.
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Old 02-19-2008, 06:43 PM   #78
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I was checking out Dr. Foster and Smith's website and since I am now heck bent on getting a refractometer would the item they sell be a wise choice - are they a dependable source?

My hydrometer says the water is 1.024 but after some reading I'm guessing it is way off. I'm afraid of what it will be when I take it to get tested at the lfs.

When I acclimated the hermits they had no problem, is there that much difference between them and shrimp?
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Old 02-19-2008, 07:14 PM   #79
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That refractometer will be a wise addition to your equipment. Swing arms are erratic in my opinion, though some swear by them. If cleaned in freshwater after each use and used carefully they probably do come close. That not the same as using a calibrated refractomer. Be sure to get the calibration fluid when you buy it.

Conventional wisdomis that snails need the most acclimation, star fish are probably next then shrimp and crabs. I found hermits to be quite hardy, almost too hardy.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:37 PM   #80
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I dont think I even acclimate my crabs when I get them I know that is bad but they really are a hardy thing as Cmor said almost too hardy Yes Drs are a great place to order from and very reliable and dependable as well
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