I have a 55 gallon tank w/ 20 fish. Granted most of them are tetras. I have an emperor 400 on it now. It does do a good job keeping water clear but my nitrate levels even after water changes remain moderate. I have gotten advice from a few retailers as to what I should do. Some say the emperor is fine and others have suggested using a canister filter...Rena filstar xp3 to be exact. What do you advise?
Emperor 400 and or Canister
- Thread starter hcphish
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Menagerie
Aquarium Advice Addict
[center:d943203a68] 
Welcome to AA, hcphish! 
[/center:d943203a68]
Jeff is right, the nitrates will not go down with any filter. If the current fish population is the way the tank will stay, AND the ammonia and nitrite remain at undectable levels, I would not change a thing. Most fish can tolerate up to 40ppm of nitrates.
What are your exact water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temp)?
Welcome to AA, hcphish! [/center:d943203a68]Jeff is right, the nitrates will not go down with any filter. If the current fish population is the way the tank will stay, AND the ammonia and nitrite remain at undectable levels, I would not change a thing. Most fish can tolerate up to 40ppm of nitrates.
What are your exact water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temp)?
Weekly partial water change is the best way to control the NO3.
If you are willing to add plant to the tank, that would be even better, but do consider that you need add additional items such as proper lighting and maybe CO2.
In fact, issue with most planted tank is not enough NO3.
Btw, your fish would be fine in the tank with moderater NO3 as long as there is no huge fluctuation in any water parameter (pH, temp, NH4, NO2, NO3). Its the fluctutation that kill the fish most of the time.
HTH
If you are willing to add plant to the tank, that would be even better, but do consider that you need add additional items such as proper lighting and maybe CO2.
In fact, issue with most planted tank is not enough NO3.
Btw, your fish would be fine in the tank with moderater NO3 as long as there is no huge fluctuation in any water parameter (pH, temp, NH4, NO2, NO3). Its the fluctutation that kill the fish most of the time.
HTH
My water parameters are: Nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate 40ppm, PH 7.4-7.6 (and that does tend to change around a lot even with Seachem neutral), the water temp is 78 degrees F. Not sure about ammonia...need to get another test kit. thank you for your advise. I really appreciate it. 
AtodaJ
Aquarium Advice Freak
Stop using Seachem neutral. A fluctuating PH is very dangerous so the fact that you are seeing the PH "changing around a lot" is a HUGE problem. Throw it away!
Regulators should only be used if you have especially soft water and you have an advanced understanding of how it works in relation to your KH levels. Not for beginners. PH swings is probably one of the biggest fish killers out there for beginners.
As for you high Nitrate issues.... perform 20% water changes once a week and cut back feeding to at the most once a day. Every other day seems to work out just fine for most. When you do feed, be sure to only put in a quantity of food that will be consumed within 2 minutes. If you see food still in the tank 2 minutes after you've fed then you have overfed them.
hth Good Luck
Regulators should only be used if you have especially soft water and you have an advanced understanding of how it works in relation to your KH levels. Not for beginners. PH swings is probably one of the biggest fish killers out there for beginners.
As for you high Nitrate issues.... perform 20% water changes once a week and cut back feeding to at the most once a day. Every other day seems to work out just fine for most. When you do feed, be sure to only put in a quantity of food that will be consumed within 2 minutes. If you see food still in the tank 2 minutes after you've fed then you have overfed them.
hth Good Luck
Menagerie
Aquarium Advice Addict
Agreed!! A stable pH is better than a perfect pH.
Amen to that.
In Fresh Water circles, far too much is often made of PH. Unless you want to breed a stable ph is better than a yo yoing one.
I have seen discuss being bred in Toronto tap water. While it is not quite liquid stone, TOH20 ain't the softest stuff on the block. Jeff
In Fresh Water circles, far too much is often made of PH. Unless you want to breed a stable ph is better than a yo yoing one.
I have seen discuss being bred in Toronto tap water. While it is not quite liquid stone, TOH20 ain't the softest stuff on the block. Jeff
Thank you for all of your help...And Jeff I could not agree with you more on the day of the week thing. The 400 that I have is quiet one day and not the next. But it is never annoying.
I will most definitely leave the ph alone. At what point would it be dangerously high though? The 400 have 4 separate slots for media. Right now I have all four of them for mechanical. If any what filter media would you recommend? Granted I don't have ammonia level readings right now but putting that aside what should I put in there?
I will most definitely leave the ph alone. At what point would it be dangerously high though? The 400 have 4 separate slots for media. Right now I have all four of them for mechanical. If any what filter media would you recommend? Granted I don't have ammonia level readings right now but putting that aside what should I put in there?
Menagerie
Aquarium Advice Addict
I'm not familar with that filter. Where is the biological filter?
What is the normal pH of the tank?
What is the normal pH of the tank?
Why is the PH rising so quickly?
Unless you are using chalk as a substrate, regular water changes should keep things balanced. As to the 400, the most important biological filtration takes place on the wheels. I tend only to use two slots as I think if you are using more than two, more water bypasses the media. Around the intake tube at the top you can often see the overflow. Jeff
Unless you are using chalk as a substrate, regular water changes should keep things balanced. As to the 400, the most important biological filtration takes place on the wheels. I tend only to use two slots as I think if you are using more than two, more water bypasses the media. Around the intake tube at the top you can often see the overflow. Jeff
I wish I could tell you what is going on with the ph. 
I just don't know. My plan of action is to do more water changes, and to lower the bio load some. I have a pleco (about 8 inches long) and that thing is dirty. I plan on taking him back. And I plan on removing some tetras. I have had this tank for about 8 months and everything was fine up until a few weeks ago. Currently I have...
5 serpea tetras
5 lemon tetras (which are going back)
1 pleco (also going back)
2 clown loaches
2 bala sharks
3 pearl gourami
3 bosemani rainbows
Jeff all I have is your normal aquarium gravel for my substrate.
I just tested the water again and my ph is 7.6 or higher cause that is the range of the test kit, my ammonia is 0ppm, the nitrite is 0 ppm, and the nitrate is 40ppm.
Other than more regular water changes I am clueless.
I just don't know. My plan of action is to do more water changes, and to lower the bio load some. I have a pleco (about 8 inches long) and that thing is dirty. I plan on taking him back. And I plan on removing some tetras. I have had this tank for about 8 months and everything was fine up until a few weeks ago. Currently I have...5 serpea tetras
5 lemon tetras (which are going back)
1 pleco (also going back)
2 clown loaches
2 bala sharks
3 pearl gourami
3 bosemani rainbows
Jeff all I have is your normal aquarium gravel for my substrate.
I just tested the water again and my ph is 7.6 or higher cause that is the range of the test kit, my ammonia is 0ppm, the nitrite is 0 ppm, and the nitrate is 40ppm.
Other than more regular water changes I am clueless.
AtodaJ
Aquarium Advice Freak
If you have a high KH level and a naturally high PH level, using a neutral PH regulator will only lower the PH briefly. The tank's PH will quickly rise back to where it normally is and will bounce around until equilibrium is reached again. That is why the PH "rose so quickly."
You need a baseline to know where your PH should typically be. Poor a glass of tap water and let it sit over night. Then test that water for PH, KH, GH. This will tell you what your normal levels are coming straight from the tap.
Typically, your tap water PH won't be higher than 8 (mine is 7.8). If it's less than 8 I wouldn't give it a second thought. Just don't mess with it.
Good Luck!
You need a baseline to know where your PH should typically be. Poor a glass of tap water and let it sit over night. Then test that water for PH, KH, GH. This will tell you what your normal levels are coming straight from the tap.
Typically, your tap water PH won't be higher than 8 (mine is 7.8). If it's less than 8 I wouldn't give it a second thought. Just don't mess with it.
Good Luck!
I have to get a new test kit (ph)...My tap water straight out of the tap not letting it sit at all is at least 7.6 because that is were my test kit range stops. I know my general hardness is normal but I know nothing about KH.
