Another problem - very low kh - fish acting oddly - help again please...

[fis]

For anyone who's followed the drama of this fish, I administered melafix for a week, did a 25% water change, and then replaced the carbon in the tank. All seemed ok for 2-3 days until he started twitching and acting weird again. I checked the ph and it was below 7. Added baking soda and it went up again so I thought everything was ok. A few days later the strange behavior started again - checked the ph and it was fine. But the fish is still off on the other side of the tank, not being interactive as he usually is. I finally thought to check the kh, and it's way below 100 (I think it was 50? - it took 5 drops to turn yellow in the test kit, but I don't have the paper to translate that in front of me).

I understand the kh affects the ph, and I need to add a buffer, correct? But now I'm reading that baking soda isn't stable...

What can I add that will work? Will baking soda work just for the night until I can get to the store tomorrow? Once I do, can someone recommend a good product? There seem to be so many, and again, I'm afraid to futz with the parameters of the water more than I need to.

Thank you again!!

 

[rich311k]

What kind of fish is it? Crushed coral, a bag in the filter should stabilize things. I will tell you I have less KH than that and my fish are just fine. Stabilty is the most important thing. Your adding things and causing a seesaw is probably doing more harm than good.

 

[fis]

It's a goldfish.
The ph is not stable, which is my main concern - so I'm not sure what to do here. Now the ph seems stable, but the kh is 89.5 - I just found the paper.
Is there something to do, or best to leave it? I'm confused to be honest-

 

[eco23]

What is the pH directly from the tap and what is your water change routine (how much, how often)?

I agree with Rich that CC is a viable option and can be very valuable to raise kH and stabilize pH...but with a diligent enough pwc schedule it's normally not necessary with a level like yours. Rich is also dead on about fluctuations from additives being the main concern IMO.

 

[fis]

Frankly I don't change the water frequently enough - usually 25% every two weeks, but since the melafix mess I've done it once per week. so 25% of 30 gallons (29 gallon tank).
So I'm sure I caused the problem, honestly. I just want to fix it so he's not in such obvious unhappiness.
ph from the tap right now is over 7.5.
Now I'm even more confused, because it crashed 2 days after I did the water change (the ph crashed I mean)

I should add I'll be changing it weekly now!!! But what to do in the meantime?

 

[eco23]

Frankly I don't change the water frequently enough - usually 25% every two weeks, but since the melafix mess I've done it once per week. so 25% of 30 gallons (29 gallon tank).
So I'm sure I caused the problem, honestly. I just want to fix it so he's not in such obvious unhappiness.
ph from the tap right now is over 7.5.
Now I'm even more confused, because it crashed 2 days after I did the water change (the ph crashed I mean)

I should add I'll be changing it weekly now!!! But what to do in the meantime?

Frequent water changes (25% one to two times a week) is the best solution in my view. If your water is low in alkalinity you need to restore the buffers in the water often to keep the pH stable and maintain kH.

I'm usually not a fan of altering water chemistry...but I don't necessarily have qualms with CC if used properly. The key is to find the proper amount where it will efficiently buffer the water, but not dramatically alter the pH level.

As Rich said, you can pick up a mesh media bag from the lfs, add a small amount of CC based on your tank size (I used a tiny handful in my 46 gallon while cycling) and check the pH and kH after it circulates a while.

Start small and add slowly if necessary, because adding too much too fast will dramatically shoot your pH upwards and can be devastating to your fish.

 

[fis]

I should also add that I'm planning to vacuem the tank tonight - the ammonia when tested looks like it's slightly present (test tube is yellow, but there is a green tinge), and so I thought that might help the overall quality...
Sorry if sounding desperate here!
Thanks-

 

[fis]

Ok - thank you - I'll do that.

Do you think that's why he's sitting off to the side, and not interested in eating or interacting?

I've also started reading about nitrate levels - something I've never tested for - is that something to worry about?

Bit clueless here - my apologies
Thank you-

 

[eco23]

I should also add that I'm planning to vacuem the tank tonight - the ammonia when tested looks like it's slightly present (test tube is yellow, but there is a green tinge), and so I thought that might help the overall quality...
Sorry if sounding desperate here!
Thanks-

One thing to try is to fill a glass with water from the tap, throw an air stone in it for 24 hours and test pH at that point. It's possible something is buffering your water, and once it gasses out it will show your actual pH value. I'm not sure how closely you monitor pH...but that could actually be all you're seeing.

You don't appear in a dire situation, just work to keep the water changes regular to maintain buffering ability, and if pH swings continue to happen...I'd look into the CC for your filter.

 

[eco23]

Ok - thank you - I'll do that.

Do you think that's why he's sitting off to the side, and not interested in eating or interacting?

I've also started reading about nitrate levels - something I've never tested for - is that something to worry about?

Bit clueless here - my apologies
Thank you-

Get yourself an API Master Test kit. Having reliable results for ammo, nitrIte, nitrAte and pH are vital to the welfare of your fish.

NitrAtes should ideally be at or below 20. Having a good pwc schedule will handle that issue for you as well.

Things with aquariums are rarely as complicated as they seem. Normally all you need for a healthy tank is a bucket and a bottle of water conditioner. Whatever happens, don't let the guy at the lfs talk you into a bottle of any chemicals...solutions don't come in bottles (unless it's a bottle of Prime )

 

[fis]

Ok - thanks very much. I'll do a small water change tonight, and then another change on Tuesday.
Do you think it's ok to use bottled water tonight? The water I put out won't be ready until Tuesday morning-
I appreciate all your help-

 

[jcolon]

Two questions.

Assuming your using tap for your PWC's, what's your tap water source? Groundwater / Well, Reservoir .. etc. Do you have any Driftwood or Peat in your tank that could be causing your pH to drop?

I agree with Eco23, check your tap water pH and then check it after 24 hrs and that should be your baseline pH. For now ... Crush Corals, Limestone or Marble are natural ways to raise pH gradually.

 

[fis]

Groundwater -
I'll get crushed coral tomorrow - I assume it can't hurt, even if it's not needed?

Thanks-

 

[eco23]

Ok - thanks very much. I'll do a small water change tonight, and then another change on Tuesday.
Do you think it's ok to use bottled water tonight? The water I put out won't be ready until Tuesday morning-
I appreciate all your help-

Depending on the type and brand...bottled water can have extremely low pH levels and zero buffering ability. I'd simply use your tap water personally.

 

[eco23]

Groundwater -
I'll get crushed coral tomorrow - I assume it can't hurt, even if it's not needed?

Thanks-

As long as you follow my above advice about adding it extremely slowly so it doesn't cause rapid fluctuations of your pH...it'll be fine.

 

[fis]

Thanks eco - ok - then I will get a bit of cc tomorrow and I guess wait with the water change until Tuesday when the water is ready

I've always understood tap water has to sit out for 3 days before you use it?

 

[eco23]

Thanks eco - ok - then I will get a bit of cc tomorrow and I guess wait with the water change until Tuesday when the water is ready

When the water is ready? By ground water, do you mean you're on a well? Do you use a dechlorinator?

*our timing is off, lol. Hang on and I'll respond.

 

[eco23]

Leaving tap water sitting out is an old school method of dealing with chlorine. Most municipalities have switched to chloramines which must be removed with a dechlorinator / water conditioner.

As long as you have water conditioner like Seachem Prime, API Stress Coat, etc...you can add it in straight away. Just make sure you match temps from the faucet to the tank.

 

[fis]

I didn't know that!!!!

Really? Wow...

So I need a water conditioner and crushed coral...lol...

I don't think I can get either of these tonight. And the fish is not happy. I'm a terrible caregiver...sigh...he is 10 years old. Probably use to it by now...lol

Thank you for all the quick help!

 

[eco23]

I didn't know that!!!!

Really? Wow...

So I need a water conditioner and crushed coral...lol...

I don't think I can get either of these tonight. And the fish is not happy. I'm a terrible caregiver...sigh...he is 10 years old. Probably use to it by now...lol

Thank you for all the quick help!

Live and learn...luckily your fish did, lol.

Yep, water conditioner is a must. And remember, there's no such thing as too many water changes as long they're done properly.

Keep us posted