Just Another Pressurized CO2 Question

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I got you; I need to take another look at regulator parts.
What would happen if the manifold portion was placed on top of bubble counter, if possible? Using 1 bubble counter for 2 lines?
 
That could probably work if the connections fit. The fitting on top of the bubble counter is a different size/type than the nipple on the needle valve I am pretty sure.
 
Your probably right, and the more I think about it, it may be slightly tapered to allow tubing to slide over. But it was a nice thought anyway.

As always, thanks for sticking with my post and your replies!
 
Will the manifold from aquacave, work with a Aquateck regulator? Same threads? I don't care for the 2 way manifold Aquateck offers.:nono:
 
I wondered that myself. I swapped my CO2 cylinder tonight and was looking at the regulator and it appears the threads attached to regulator seem fixed. I may email aquacave about the splitter and see if it would work (unless someone knows). I'm gonna guess that it would; may need brass coupling at worst to connect them together.
I don't care for aquateks either; so far.
 
I wondered that myself. I swapped my CO2 cylinder tonight and was looking at the regulator and it appears the threads attached to regulator seem fixed. I may email aquacave about the splitter and see if it would work (unless someone knows). I'm gonna guess that it would; may need brass coupling at worst to connect them together.
I don't care for aquateks either; so far.
Let me know what they say if you would please.
 
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Aquatek looks like this. I believe this tall stem can come off to mount more on side so that might be considered.

r752w-1.png
 
Just thinking, assuming I go with the aquatek brand because of the "o" ring, do I really need a bubble counter if I'm using pH controller? I do use a drop checker as well.
 
Fort and I tried to figure out once why they had such a cockamamie design for their manifold, but I don't remember exactly what we figured it was. If I remember correctly, their manifold is designed to hook into the first needle valve before splitting into the two subsequent needle valves, but assuming you can remove the original needle valve, you should be able to put on any post body you want.

Edit: as far as using a bubble counter goes, I would still use it. For one, can you directly hook a co2 line into a needle valve? I've never tried it. Aside from that, a bubble counter is the only way you have to actually measure your output. It's worth $20 in my book to be able to actually measure your output. Aside from that, I would certainly feel like a fool if I had a $100+ probe system fail and end up having tank problems because I didn't have a cheap fallback part. It's not often that you can have a cheap and effective fallback system like you potentially have the opportunity to have here.
 
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This splitter thing is giving me a headache, lol. I emailed both Aquatek and Aquacave with more information on their splitter. Is the main check valve difficult to remove from the main body? Anyone replaced a check valve?
 
Fort and I tried to figure out once why they had such a cockamamie design for their manifold, but I don't remember exactly what we figured it was. If I remember correctly, their manifold is designed to hook into the first needle valve before splitting into the two subsequent needle valves, but assuming you can remove the original needle valve, you should be able to put on any post body you want.

Edit: as far as using a bubble counter goes, I would still use it. For one, can you directly hook a co2 line into a needle valve? I've never tried it. Aside from that, a bubble counter is the only way you have to actually measure your output. It's worth $20 in my book to be able to actually measure your output. Aside from that, I would certainly feel like a fool if I had a $100+ probe system fail and end up having tank problems because I didn't have a cheap fallback part. It's not often that you can have a cheap and effective fallback system like you potentially have the opportunity to have here.

You NINJA'd me :)

I agree with you. It is a good thing to have. You can hook a co2 line directly to the valve though.
 
This splitter thing is giving me a headache, lol. I emailed both Aquatek and Aquacave with more information on their splitter. Is the main check valve difficult to remove from the main body? Anyone replaced a check valve?

Do you mean needle valve? I have removed them. It just takes a wrench.
 
Yep your right fort; see brain already waterlogged.
 
That reminds me of something. The bubble counters double as a check valve to keep water out of your solenoid/regulator. You'll need to buy another metal check valve to protect your equipment if you remove the bubble counter.
 
Thanks aqua-chem, I forgot about the too! I really want to keep the bubble counter though. I'll still need either another counter or at least 1 check valve for other side.
 
So according to Aquatek, their regulators are not to be modified due to possible leakage and the 2-way splitter can not be used in conjunction with brass bubble counter as it would be horizontal :(.
So my options are to (#1) make 2 bubble counters using small water bottles and use 2 cheap check valves so they can easily be replaced once broke down. Another option (#2) is to purchase 2 of these (or something similiar)

D-499 bubble Counter.jpg

so it comes with integrated check valves too. It can be installed inline and I would place them after the splitter. The second option is what I'm leaning toward.

No word from Aquacave; but I doubt its going to make a difference due to the sheer construction of Aquateks regulators.

Thoughts?
 
This sounds like nonsense to me - the thread size is the same I am pretty sure. That is a really poor "reason" not to be able to add your own choice of manifold onto their regulator.
 
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