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I find just about all of them a good addition to an aquarium like the one you have. What's most important is that when you chose the corys at the store, they should be showing some movement in the holding tank. I'd be very cautious about buying corys that just sit at the bottom of the tank...

Matt...it isn't one Cory..I lost maybe 4 by now.

Delapool, If I acquire metronidazole, would you know how to apply proper dosage? It is available in 250Mg tablet form but I have no idea how much to apply and how often. I would certainly treat the tank with it if I had that information. Thanks.

You are right...Looks to be internal bleeding that I have to think is associated with whichever disease is afflicting the Corys.

It might be I guess, but there isn't any of that "cloudy" white growth in this case. So, I'm not sure.

More... Hmmm...I thought I followed the image attachment instructions but apparently, I didn't. So, this is another try....sorry for error...Here goes....

I have a variety of Corys in one of my long-established freshwater community tanks (60-gallons - tetras, small barbs, dwarf gouramis, etc. … no aggressive fish) and...I guess because of the addition of a new fish into the tank recently that exhibited no signs of any disease...a few of them...

Well, I have to say that my hat's off to you for catching that tang so quickly. I would get rid of that tang since a 55's a bit too small for a tang anyway and since you have it already, it's the right time, I'd say. When you say "Regal" I guess you're talking about a Regal Tang (as opposed to...

Is the Coral Beauty able to take food when you some into the tank, Ralph? If it is, then leave it in the tank. Watch to see what happens tomorrow morning.

Don't be overly concerned, Ralphie. That's very common behavior for some fish when a new fish is introduced into the tank that they see as their territory. I'd doubt that a tang will be too deadly when it comes to the introduction to of a fish that isn't too closely related like an angelfish...

From Queens...Now northern Westchester. So, I take a sandwich with me when I want to go to the good fish stores.

I don't think it's so much that I amaze you...I think it's more that you can use what I said to pontificate and show how smart you think you are. Zoanthids are potentially dangerous. I acknowledge that...and acknowledged that in my post. I didn't suggest that people eat them with their...

They are "poisonous." I believe that only some people are susceptible to the poison, though. I've handled them so many times that I have concluded that I don't react to their toxin, but I've heard that if someone is sensitive to it, it can be very serious, so it's not something to be frivolous...

Zoanthids. Take a look at the variety, the colors....and they're hardy, too. Well....start out looking here: http://www.zoaid.com/index.php?module=pnGallery2&func=main&g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=15

See if this helps you with the seaswirls: http://www.3iqventures.com/literature.html

Try using this to determine which pump you'd want depending on your configuration: http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php ....Then...add as much flow, using Tunzes, Seios, or whichever method you want to spend for or use...to get the overall flow somewhere like 25 to 30 times the 155 gallons...

If your tank is no more than 18-inches deep, then you can probably do well if you limit your coral to kinds that aren't very light demanding. Otherwise, if it's deeper, you should consider getting T5s or metal halides. I've never had T5s as a main lighting source but I have read about them...

See if this tool will help you chose the right pump for your specific configuration: http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php

A pump that pushes a bit over 100 gph would be fine...The reactor comes with a valve so that you can plumb it so that the valve can difuse the strength of the pump if it's too strong. The Phosban Reactors are very effective. I just got my phosphates down in my 120-gallon reef from 1.0 to .1 in...

Two, IMO, really is better than one so it's more random, diffused and irregular rather than coming from one narrow outlet on one powerhead. Powerheads can be unsightly and do take up room so it's not all that easy to chose when it comes to a 20-gallon tank. If you don't mind the look, a good...

I actually was told by Durso to use the Stockman modification that you can find at the Durso website for hand-on overflows, rather than the Durso standpipe. I used the Stockmans on mine and they really worked perfectly.

Your skimmer's trying to remove whatever part of the chemical reaction that happens when you use epoxy goes into the water column. It isn't poisonous so don't worry too much about it. Parial water changes like you're doing is just fine. The coral itself should pick up and be back to itself...

Sorry I haven't got a photo, but what would small light brown "worms" be that are attached on one end to the glass, substrate, etc. in a freshwater tank? The eyes aren't apparent and they look like little leeches. Thanks for the help.

I noticed this when I was doing a search for what's available today: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=66794&item=3983681221&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW#ebayphotohosting I'm getting mine at a fish store I go to but the explanation at this page is pretty thorough.

What about cheato? Did you think about trying that? The phosphate sponge works on phosphates, of course, but not on nitrates. The cheato would consume both and you only have to start off with one bunch.