10g Nano
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lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
Just got my RO (just RO, not RO/DI) water from my LFS (bought 2 5gal containers from them as well to store it in), and I tested it with my TDS meter when I got home, and both containers are showing 120ppm TDS!! What gives?
Also, the LFS recommended against using the "bagged live sand", he says they just use dry (not live) aragonite, and maybe seed it with a bit of live sand from a tank. Nothing more (as well as lots of live rock of course). What do you think - should I just use aragonite instead of the bagged livesand?
Also, the LFS recommended against using the "bagged live sand", he says they just use dry (not live) aragonite, and maybe seed it with a bit of live sand from a tank. Nothing more (as well as lots of live rock of course). What do you think - should I just use aragonite instead of the bagged livesand?
lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
Did you calebrate the machine first? Otherwise, I would inquire with the LFS about this.
That is some of the best advice I have heard come from a LFS in a long time. They are correct. You can just use dry sand if you can get your hands on the right type. The LFS may even sell it. Just ask for a couple of cups of established sand from one of their tanks to seed it with.
Cheers - I'll get onto them about it. I can't calibrate my TDS meter at the moment as I don't have the calibration solution, but I've tested my tapwater, and it's 103ppm (about right, what it was before when I used the meter a year ago, and was getting readings of less than 5ppm in my own RO'd water); and it's getting 1880ppm in my dad's tropical tank. Sound about right?
They have Caribsea Aragonite sand in (rinse before use, in RO water I guess? Or would rinsing in saltwater be ok?) - would this sand be ok?
They have Caribsea Aragonite sand in (rinse before use, in RO water I guess? Or would rinsing in saltwater be ok?) - would this sand be ok?
lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
If it is fry, the RO/DI will be just fine.
lando said:
I guess you meant to say dry?
I dont have chance to go back to the LFS before Tues now, which is when I was intending starting mixing my saltwater. For the initial fill, would it be ok to use tapwater (~100ppm TDS) treated with Seachem Prime, instead of RO? There will be no inhabitants (except LR!) for 2 weeks minimum anyway...?Well, today was the day! Got my 10g nano all set up.
-Dry aragonite for the substrate (about 2" deep) inc. some liverock rubble/sand on the top.
-7.5kg cured Figi liverock
After spending approx. 1 1/2 hours just rinsing the aragonite through(!!), I'm pleased to say all appears to be going well...so far. The water was very cloudy at first, but now 3 hours later it's almost there. Also, the little internal filter (back left) seems to put out a good amount of flow all around the tank, perfect for the size. I've also noticed a few tiny snails etc. on the sand and stuck to my glass, which I guess is a good sign!
pH is 8.2/8.3, temp is close to 25°C, and SG is 1.022/1.023.
Now it's just a waiting game! I'm going to be testing levels (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate) every night for the next 2 weeks, and 4 days from today I'll start putting a bit of flake food in every day to see what happens. After the 2 weeks (or, if longer, when the 'cycle' has complete), I'll be doing a 50% waterchange and adding the clown.
Thanks for your help so far guys.
(Top 3 pics):-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidw49/
-Dry aragonite for the substrate (about 2" deep) inc. some liverock rubble/sand on the top.
-7.5kg cured Figi liverock
After spending approx. 1 1/2 hours just rinsing the aragonite through(!!), I'm pleased to say all appears to be going well...so far. The water was very cloudy at first, but now 3 hours later it's almost there. Also, the little internal filter (back left) seems to put out a good amount of flow all around the tank, perfect for the size. I've also noticed a few tiny snails etc. on the sand and stuck to my glass, which I guess is a good sign!
pH is 8.2/8.3, temp is close to 25°C, and SG is 1.022/1.023.
Now it's just a waiting game! I'm going to be testing levels (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate) every night for the next 2 weeks, and 4 days from today I'll start putting a bit of flake food in every day to see what happens. After the 2 weeks (or, if longer, when the 'cycle' has complete), I'll be doing a 50% waterchange and adding the clown.
Thanks for your help so far guys.
(Top 3 pics):-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidw49/
lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
Looks like a great start.
lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
Just trapped air. You can sift your sand if you like. Otherwise, they should work themselves free.
The pH in my tank has now gone down to 8.0/8.1, when the saltwater was 8.2/8.3 before I put it in the tank. Any ideas? It's only been in the tank 1 day! Tested at about 8pm, with the lights on (lights had been on for about an hour).
Also, for daily top-ups, I guess I'm ok using COLD RO water, as I won't be putting much in anyway for it to alter the temp. much?
Also, for daily top-ups, I guess I'm ok using COLD RO water, as I won't be putting much in anyway for it to alter the temp. much?
lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
Ph is not really a concern right now. You should expect it to flucuate a bit in the begining. You can point a powerhead toward the surface of the water to allow for better gas exchange. This should drive Ph up a bit. Also, test it at different times of the day. It will differ with the light schedule. You should expect it to be slightly lower in the morning when the lights have been out all night and slightly higher in the evening ofter the lights have been on all day. That said, a Ph of 8.1 is not too bad.
cold RO/DI is just fine if top-offs are done on a regular basis.
Thanks Lando, I have quite a bit of surface agitation as it is, from my filter spraybar. On that subject, you recommended changing the PURA pads every month. In my filter, i have about 7 little PURA pads stacked up, which take up about 80% of the filter, with a bag of carbon on the top. Will changing all of these pads at a time every month not mean i'll be losing a lot of the bacteria every time I change?? I always thought you should only change a third of the media at a time?
Also, if my pH is still not higher (I want it to be a stable 8.3) by the time I'm ready to do my 50% waterchange and add my first fish, would you recommend using a buffer? Or would maybe the 50% waterchange with fresh water (after everything's settled down etc.) be enough to drive it back up? I just tested it now at 11pm after the lights have been on all day, and it's still 8.0/8.1
Also, if my pH is still not higher (I want it to be a stable 8.3) by the time I'm ready to do my 50% waterchange and add my first fish, would you recommend using a buffer? Or would maybe the 50% waterchange with fresh water (after everything's settled down etc.) be enough to drive it back up? I just tested it now at 11pm after the lights have been on all day, and it's still 8.0/8.1
Can you help on the above Lando?
Also, am I to expect algae blooms at this stage? My sand is starting to turn a bit brown, and some green patches are appearing on my live rock. Will they go of their own accord in time?
Also, am I to expect algae blooms at this stage? My sand is starting to turn a bit brown, and some green patches are appearing on my live rock. Will they go of their own accord in time?
roka64
Aquarium Advice Addict
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 13,858
I can't help on the pads. Your pH will be all out of whack during your cycle and for a few months (possibly) afterwards. Your tank will need to "settle down". It sounds as if you are experiencing diatoms. They will appear and then burn themselves out. I'm not sure about the green patches, that could be coraline (a pic would help).
+++EDIT+++
If you have enough LR and sand, removing the pads should not affect your bacteria that much, unless you are overloaded on your boiload.
+++EDIT+++
If you have enough LR and sand, removing the pads should not affect your bacteria that much, unless you are overloaded on your boiload.
Thanks - it's the brown in the sand which is most prominent, good news to hear it's just diatoms and should go. The green patches aren't bad enough to photograph yet, I just fear they will be in a little while!
I'm monitoring levels every day for 2 weeks, and if I don't see any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate, I'll be adding my first fish (after doing a 50% PWC). If I do see a small cycle I'll of course wait for it to complete before adding the fish. I was hoping to get the pH up to 8.2/8.3 before putting any livestock in there, but if it's going to be possibly a while before the pH settles down, I may have to add some buffer? Or would you just watch how it goes and make sure the pH doesn't go any lower than it is now (8.0-8.1), and remains fairly stable? If it does enter a problem area I'll use the buffer then. Sound good?
I have 7.5kg LR by the way, and my sand is DRY (not live) aragonite, with a bit of LR rubble/sand from an established tank at my LFS.
Livestock wise, I'll be having a small tank-bred ocellaris clown (first), and a couple of weeks after, a magenta dottyback and a bloodshrimp/4 hermits.
That's it, apart from maybe some soft corals a few months down the line
I'm monitoring levels every day for 2 weeks, and if I don't see any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate, I'll be adding my first fish (after doing a 50% PWC). If I do see a small cycle I'll of course wait for it to complete before adding the fish. I was hoping to get the pH up to 8.2/8.3 before putting any livestock in there, but if it's going to be possibly a while before the pH settles down, I may have to add some buffer? Or would you just watch how it goes and make sure the pH doesn't go any lower than it is now (8.0-8.1), and remains fairly stable? If it does enter a problem area I'll use the buffer then. Sound good?
I have 7.5kg LR by the way, and my sand is DRY (not live) aragonite, with a bit of LR rubble/sand from an established tank at my LFS.
Livestock wise, I'll be having a small tank-bred ocellaris clown (first), and a couple of weeks after, a magenta dottyback and a bloodshrimp/4 hermits.
That's it, apart from maybe some soft corals a few months down the line
lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
I change mine once a month. With enough other bio-media it should not be an issue. Keep in mind that any chemical media that absorbs unwanted nutrients (such as PO4 and NO3) or metals (like copper) do have a limited life span. Once depleted or "full", these chemical filters wll cease to remove what they are suppose to or, worse yet, leech it back into the water. IMHO, not changing them to conserve any colonized bacteria will do more harm then good.
I would be very leary of adding any chemicals or buffers to a smaller tank. there is very little room for error. I suspect you will notice an increase and stablization of your Ph with the PWC.
Good news Lando, thanks. As above, I have 7.5kg LR, and a bit of live sand (the rest is dry aragonite). I'll change all 7 little pads monthly then.
I hope I do see an increase of pH, if not, what could I do to get it up and stable?
Also, I have a film of stuff on the surface of my tank, despite the filter spraybar pointing towards the surface. It's not really a problem, because my water is crystal clear, but just wondering what it is?
I hope I do see an increase of pH, if not, what could I do to get it up and stable?
Also, I have a film of stuff on the surface of my tank, despite the filter spraybar pointing towards the surface. It's not really a problem, because my water is crystal clear, but just wondering what it is?
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