Algae?

[FireGirl]

I have a reddish-brownish film on the glass, plants, and rocks. It wipes off easily, but not certain of the type of algae this is. Any ideas and suggestions of how to get rid of it? This is a freshwater tank (Cichlids) TIA.

 

[reefrunner69]

I have a reddish-brownish film on the glass, plants, and rocks.

Is it a film or dusty, does it come off in sheets? From the description it could be cyanobacteria or diatoms, I'd bet diatoms, but need to know the answers to the questions.

 

[FireGirl]

It simply wipes off...not in sheets, more like a powder or dust (if that's possible under water) :? It's everywhere - on the glass, plants (fakies), rocks, filter tubes, heater, etc. It comes off very easy with the Mag Float.

 

[Biggen]

Sounds like diatoms. Was your tank just set up? What kind of water do you use? Tap? RO/DI, etc??

 

[FireGirl]

Tank has been setup for 4-5 months. I use filtered water. When performing partial water changes, I setup the water in large buckets, add the water conditioner and wait 24 hours before doing the water change. I use 2 five-gal buckets, so I am only changing approx 10 gals each week. (36 gal tank). I use an UGF which is attached to a Fluval cannister and also a tank-mounted wet/dry multi-filter. I rotate changing the filters every 2 weeks, which works out to changing each filter once a month.

 

[reefrunner69]

This is a freshwater tank (Cichlids) TIA.

It's almost certainly diatoms.

I'm gonna move this to the FW General discussion section so you can get FW specific advice on how to go about removing it.

 

[clueless]

If it's diatoms....I can help but it won't be easy to do what I'm about to tell you to do......... You need to get a Siamese algae eater.........PM fruitbat for details ( he'll know) Trust me he's got some Siamese algae eaters....

 

[Guest]

99% sure it's Diatom algae. Otto's are very good for eating it up, but they wouldn't make good companions w/chiclids. Well that depends on the type of chiclids.

Clueless, be careful with the post button, please. I deleted your triple-post.

 

[FireGirl]

Thanks for all the replies and the great information. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Ok...I'm working on my next tank. I need to have one custom built for a specific area in the house. It will be a 125 gal freshy...need a place to move some of the larger Cichlids. I'm sure by moving some of the fish into another tank, thereby reducing the current population in the 36 gal tank, this will help to alleviate part of the algae problem.

Any excuse for another tank

 

[TheMadNucleus]

FireGirl,

Diatoms usually "bloom" in a silicate rich environment. Silicate is often found in Public water as an additive (I think it reduces a type of corosion in pipes - not sure) and also in well water.

So I have a few additional suggestions to all the advice above.

1.) You mentioned you use filtered water - but is it R/O filtered - most standard water filters will not remove any appreciable amounts of silicates.

2.) Consider testing (either your self or your LFS) for Silicates in both your Tap and tank.

3.) Adjust your lighting (should consider a little less than standard so perhaps 4 hrs a day). Alternatively you can leave them off for a period of time and see if it helps. If the problem receeds then return to standard lighting. Also be sure you are using Aquarium spectrum bulbs.

4.) Check levels of Phosphates as well. While not the major nutrient for diatoms it is a secondary and high levels can merely aggrvate the condition.

HTH

Tom

 

[madasafish]

Firegirl,

Though TheMadNucleus is correct that algae flourishes in nutrient-rich environments, there is seldom an aquarium that doesn't experience this diatom algae to an extent. I've got perhaps the best example of one that doesn't (my other 2 tanks do have other types of algae), and here's my recipe for success:

---1-2 otos (Otocinclus spp., usually Otocinclus vittatus or affinus), a small suckermouth catfish of the family Loricariidae.

---Low-light, fast-growing plants such as Hygros (Hygrophila polysperma) and Hornwort that can outcompete algae for nutrients.

You tend only to find this type of diatomacaeous algae in low-light tanks (i.e. under 2 watts of light per gallon), and I think you'll find that healthy otos are the best solution by far. A distant second are bristlenose plecos (Ancistrus spp.). Siamese Algae Eaters are great for planted tanks with high light and beard or hair algae, but are less effective on this sort of algae, Clueless.

 

[TheMadNucleus]

Yep, the solution to the symptom (i.e. organisms to eat the stuff or their nutrients) is a great approach - as was mentioned in several prior posts. I'm certainly not against that.

However, my take on conditions like this is first find the source of the problem and see if you can fix that. While Madasafish is correct that there are a paltry few tanks that don't have diatoms, it seems more a point of interest which tanks have a "bloom" of this stuff. I.e. growing out of control and causing maintenance problems. etc. This is not a normal condition and is likely linked to poor water chemistry/quality.

It is actually an excellent indicator (save test kits) of something gone awry. This is the reason that I suggested looking into chemistry and lighting. Also - if it is your tap water and you ignore the problem, everytime you change your water/top off you could be adding more and more silicates and this will continue to build up and while this is food for your diatoms it's not good stuff for your fish at high levels. Neither is phosphate.

As for lighting i.e. watts/gallon. I don't care for this formula too much as watts has very little to do with the actual properties of light or it's suitability for a tank. For example a deep tank with lots of vegitation will require more light then a shallow tank with no vegitation. Also, Algae is very spectrum sensitive so, for example, Diatoms are going to flourish in warmer tone lights, i.e. those with lower temperature ratings (like those designed for home use) and will not flourish so much under higher temperature lights like some of those designed for Aqurium use - hence my suggestion to check these as well.

Anyway - just wanted to clear up why I suggested these things.

Good luck regardless of the way you go.



Tom