PAR means nothing to me as I don't understand what that means.
In simplest terms it is the light that plants use for photosynthesis which falls between 400 and 700 nanometers. To us it's visible light.
The units of PAR are defined as micromols/m2/second. So it is the number of photons in the 400-700nm range striking a surface over a square meter every second.
The higher the PAR of the light unit the more photons are emitted. If you take a measurement say two inches from the light then there are lots of photons however, as you move away from the light, or in our case deeper in to the aquarium, the photons become spread out this is known as the inverse square law.
If you have a higher PAR light unit you will effectively have more photons at a greater depth.
The more photons that strike the surface of a plant leaf every second the faster the rate of photosynthesis. If your plants do not receive enough photons of light such that their rate of photosynthesis exactly matches the rate of respiration the plant dies (photorespiration)
In most cases this is not a problem in our hobby. The problem in 90% of aquariums where plant growth is stunted and/or algae is induced is because of an EXCESS of light. This drives the plants carbon requirement up and when carbon runs out the plant dies and algae takes over.
This is why I always say to try out your fixture first using slower growing plants more suited to lower co2 environments. If you want faster growth you simply buy a higher PAR rating of light and supplement co2.
Most experienced planted tank gurus (not me [emoji4]) will tell you that the best method for growing plants is lower light with additional co2 and fertilisers. Although there is definitely more than one method for growing aquarium plants, their basic requirements will always need to be met. It's always best to start with light because it can be manipulated very easily but the light will always define your systems capacity for growing submerged plants successfully.