Betta Splendens

[PinkSugar]

Submitted by PinkSugar

BETTA SPLENDENS
​

Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish, Fighter
Classification:

• Order: Perciformes (Anabantidae, prior to reclassification)
• Family: Osphronemidae
• Genus: Betta
• Species: B. Splendens

Origin: Thailand and Cambodia
Main Ecosystem: Rice paddies – still water, shallow but wide water bodies
Salinity: Freshwater
Temperament: Aggressive
Diet: Carnivore
pH: 6.0 – 7.8
Temperature: 76-84 F (78-80F is ideal)
Hardness: 4-10 d
Potential size: 2 – 3”
Minimum tank size: 3 gallons (5+ gallons is best)
Water Region: Upper water column
Lifespan: 2-7 years (up to 9 years reported)
Color: White, black, red, orange, yellow, green, and blue, in countless combinations, intensities, and patterns.
Mouth: Upturned
Sexing:

• Males: Distinguished by their longer fins (especially longer ventral fins)and gill membrane (“beard”). Their bodies are generally longer and it is primarily males who build bubblenests, though some females do as well
• Females: Distinguished by their shorter fins, lesser color variety, absence of gill membrane (“beard”), and the presence of the ovipositor (small white appendage visible on belly just behind ventral fins). Females can exhibit vertical breeding stripes and horizontal stress stripes on their bodies, though some males can show stress stripes as well.

AQUARIUM/HOUSING:

​

Bettas are very curious and relatively active fish that require adequate space in which to swim and explore. Their ability to breathe atmospheric air via the labyrinth organ allows them to survive in small water volumes, but they will not thrive in less than 3 gallons of water. Contrary to popular belief, bettas will not be uncomfortable/afraid in larger volumes of water, but they may be uncomfortable in large open areas and should be provided with a well planted (silk/fabric or real) tank allowing hiding spaces.

• Bettas must always have access to the water’s surface to breathe air from, and so tanks can’t be filled to the brim. If a betta is prevented from reaching the surface, it will suffocate as its gills cannot obtain all of the oxygen the fish needs from the water.
• Bettas require a tank with a full lid to maintain respiratory health and prevent jumping.
  
  • A betta's native habitat is very warm and humid, and a full tank lid creates a layer of warm and humid air at the water's surface. This is the air that the betta will breathe through their labyrinth organ, and it needs to be warm and moist to maintain the health of this organ. A tank without a lid will result in air at the water's surface that is too cold (relatively) and too dry for a betta.
    
  • Bettas are very capable of jumping out of their tanks to their death if given the chance, and medium-large openings in tank lids should be sealed off, possibly by packing with filter sponge or another inert, non-toxic material, so that a betta cannot jump out through them.
    
• Bettas are tropical fish and require water heated to 78-80F. Room temperature water is not acceptable, and in many climates, a betta kept in room temperature water can freeze to death, especially over winter. Tanks should not be placed in direct sunlight, or in drafty areas which might cause temperature fluctuations.
  • Since bettas are cold blooded, as are other fish, they are able to slow their metabolisms down to survive in cold conditions, like room temperature water, but this comes at a large cost. Their immune systems are compromised and they will be much more vulnerable to diseases, especially fin rot, which can quickly eat away at their fins and can be stubborn, difficult to treat, and can become a fatal infection of the fish's body. Also, as their metabolism slows, so does their digestions, greatly increasing the odds of constipation/impaction and further related problems.
    
  • The best treatment is prevention - maintaining your betta's tank at a steady 78-80F with a heater
  • Lights are not suitable as a means of heating a tank, as they would either be left on for 24 hours, maintaining a more stable tank temperature, but effectively destroying the betta's natural day/night cycle, or they would be turned off at night allowing the temperature to fluctuate up and down greatly as the light is turned on and off.
• Bettas do not like strong currents, preferring gentler/slower filters. Originating in relatively still water and having long, flowing fins, bettas are not the strongest swimmers. A filtered, cycled tank is ideal for a betta, as it is for other fish, but steps should be taken to reduce strong filter currents so that the fish is not pushed by them. Placing plants underneath the filter output will help to break up the flow, and various baffles can be fitted to faster filters using filter sponge or a well cleaned pop bottle. If the tank will be filtered but not cycled (such as a small 3-5 gallon tank that is difficult to cycle) it may be useful to add an ammonia absorbing filter insert to control toxic levels. Ammonia and nitrite levels should be tested regularly to ensure that they stay in the safe range (ammonia and nitrite should be 0, and anything over 0.25PPM for either is highly toxic)
  
• Bettas can be kept in tanks that are not filtered, though a filtered, cycled tank is ideal, as it is for all fish. In the case of an unfiltered tank, ammonia should be tested more frequently and larger and more frequent water changes should be performed to prevent ammonia from building up. If ammonia levels can not be kept at safe levels for the fish (well under 0.25PPM), a filter and/or ammonia absorbers should be added.
• Bettas may prefer lower light. Their native rice paddies are densely filled with plants, providing shade, and the waters are often tinted brown, like weak tea, from the tannins of fallen leaves. For this reason, bettas may not like situations of very high, bright light for extended periods.
  
• Contrary to popular myths, bettas are not lazy or sedentary fish. A betta that sits on the bottom of its tank all day is either sick, too cold, or in a tank that is much too small and doesn't allow it enough room to move. If your betta is behaving this way, the three factors mentioned should be considered and addressed right away.
  • It has been suggested that the leading cause of premature death in bettas is fatty liver disease resulting from inactivity and overfeeding.

DECORATIONS:

• Bettas easily snag and tear their fins on rough plastic/edges of decorations, leaving injuries that are vulnerable to infection. Their fins are a membrane only a few cells thick and are very delicate. Plants and decorations should be checked for sharp edges before they are put in a betta tank, and real or silk (fabric) plants should be chosen over plastic.
  
• A good test of a decoration’s suitability for a betta is lightly dragging a silk stocking over it. If the stocking snags or sticks, the decoration is not suitable.
• Being very curious, bettas can get stuck in small holes in decorations while trying to explore. This can result in injury or even death. Small openings that a betta could become wedged in should be sealed (possibly by packing with filter foam or sealing with aquarium silicone).
• River rocks/stones used as substrate may create small crevices (see above problem) and may not be suitable for that reason
  

COMPATIBILITY:

• WARNING - Bettas are viciously territorial fish who will fight to the death. Two male bettas must never be kept in the same tank, nor should a male and a female. When placed together, two males will display to each other and eventually fight. Spawning can also be quite violent, and a female will eventually be attacked by an amorous male if she is not ready to lay eggs. In the wild, one fish can flee a dispute with another, but in an aquarium, there is nowhere to run and one betta, or both bettas, will end up injured or killed.
• Some female bettas can be kept together in “sorority” tanks, but must be watched closely as bullying and deadly conflicts can still result. Females can be as aggressive as males. When adding females to a sorority tank, they should ideally be added at the same time, so that no fish has established a territory within the tank that they will try to defend from a newcomer. No less than 4 females should be kept together, as this will spread out the aggression, and 6 or more females may be best (but be careful not to overstock your tank).
  
• Depending on the individual betta’s temperament, some can be kept in community tanks (one male, or one or more females).
  

Bettas should NOT be kept in tanks with any of the following:

• Species closely related to bettas, such as gouramis. These fish often show similar territoriality to bettas and conflicts may result;
• Brightly colored fish with flowing fins, such as fancy guppies, as bettas may confuse these fish for other male bettas and will attack them;
• Fast moving and/or aggressive/nippy fish, such as danios. Bettas are not the strongest swimmers and may either be harassed by these fish and unable to get away, or unable to compete with faster fish for food.

ACCLIMATION:

Bettas have the same acclimation requirements as other tropical fish - the drip method of acclimation may be the best, but any method must allow the fish to gradually adjust to the water chemistry of their new tank water, as well as the temperature of the new tank prior to release into it. When first introduced into their new tank, naturally bettas may experience some stress and may not eat for the first few days (see the end of the "Feeding" section for a further discussion of this). To help a stressed betta to relax, lights can be dimmed and the tank can be placed with it's back near a wall so that the betta is not dealing with your movement on all sides of his tank and can feel more secure. Boxes, etc. can also be stood next to the sides of the tank if the fish seems extra stressed, so as to block out movement on the sides of the tank as well. Signs of stress include pale coloration, clamped fins, and hiding in the tank. These symptoms should resolve in a few days as the fish becomes comfortable in their new home and begins to explore. However, if the fish is still showing signs of stress after a few days, this may signify something more serious, such as illness, and should be monitored.


FEEDING:

In the wild, bettas are strictly carnivores, having adapted their upturned mouth to feed from the surface on insects that they are able to catch and zooplankton. Bettas do not naturally eat plant matter.

• A betta’s stomach is roughly the size of its eye - they should be fed a portion of food the size of one eye twice a day – no more than this. Bettas are notorious for begging for food and will eat far more than they need, or is even good for them if they are allowed to. Overfeeding is very unhealthy, leads to a number of problems, and should be avoided by feeding no more than the portion listed above. In some circumstances where the fish is expending extra energy, such as a female who is preparing to breed, more food can be given. Generally, instructions to feed what the betta will eat in 3-5 minutes will lead to gross overfeeding.

In the home aquarium, bettas can be fed a variety of foods, with a greater variety providing the best nutrition. Fish fed a large variety of foods live longer lives, show brighter colors, and heal damaged fins more quickly:

• Live foods: Live foods are as close to what a betta would eat naturally as possible.
  • Black worms, wingless fruit flies, grindal worms, daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms, mosquito larvae, white worms and mysis shrimp are all good choices.
  • When choosing live foods, you must be very careful of the source that they come from, as they can easily carry diseases/parasites. Insects caught outside are not acceptable – only those which you have cultured yourself or purchased from a pet/aquarium store should be used
• Frozen foods: These are also very close to what the fish would eat in nature, being frozen versions of the live foods above.
  
  • Tubifex worms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, bloodworms, glass worms, and daphnia are all good choices.
    
  • Should be thawed prior to feeding
    
  • Frozen foods should not be thawed and then refrozen. Once thawed initially, they should be fed or discarded to avoid developing bacteria.
• Freeze dried foods: The frozen and live foods listed can also be fed in freeze dried form.
  • Freeze dried foods should be soaked in a small amount of tank water for 1-10 minutes prior to feeding. Trial and error will determine the time that each different brand and type of food should be soaked for - it should be allowed to soak until expanded/rehydrated, but not for so long that it becomes waterlogged and disintegrates. As these foods are dry, they tend to expand a great deal once in water, and if they are fed to the fish dry, they will expand in their digestive tract, encouraging problems such as constipation/impaction.
• Pellets: Pellets specifically formulated for bettas can be fed but may not be best as the fish’s sole diet, as they can have some drawbacks.
  • These foods often contain fillers, such as wheat flour, which have no nutritional value for bettas.
  • The “meals” used in pellet food (i.e.: fish meal, shrimp meal) are not necessarily high quality, and thus will not compare nutritionally to live/frozen/freeze dried foods.
  • Pellets may contain additives which have no nutritional purpose for bettas, and may be harmful, such as MSG.
  • As pellets are dry, it's best to soak them in a small amount of tank water for 2-5 minutes prior to feeding. They will expand a great deal in this time, and the portion fed (the size of one betta eye) should be based on the size of the pellets once soaked, not before. Trial and error for soaking time can again be used as different brands of food will vary, and if soaked for long enough, some pellets will sink and be less appetizing to the betta, as bettas feed from the surface naturally.
    

Many betta owners find it beneficial to fast their bettas for one day per week. Fish can survive for several days without food, and this fasting day gives the fish’s digestive system a chance to rest and try to clear out any blockages that might be forming. In addition, some owners feed their bettas a portion of blanched pea once week as a preventative for constipation. (see below)

A COMMON PROBLEM - CONSTIPATION: As carnivores, bettas have a relatively short digestive tract, and with a diet that consists mostly of protein and relatively little fiber, bettas are prone to constipation. This is a problem that needs to be addressed/prevented as it can compound and become very serious if ignored.

• Overfeeding and feeding the wrong foods are leading causes of constipation in the home aquarium. Feeding foods such as dry pellets and freeze dried foods can very quickly constipate bettas as they expand and clog the digestive tract. As mentioned above these foods should be soaked prior to feeding, and live/frozen foods can be fed whenever possible
• Constipation will be visible as a bloated stomach and a lack of defecation
  
• If a betta does become constipated, he/she should be first fasted for 1-3 days to see if the digestive system can clear itself out. If not, he can be fed a portion of daphnia which acts as a mild laxative. Feeding a small portion of a blanched pea is also used to remedy constipation, but daphnia may be preferable, as vegetable matter is not naturally in a betta's diet.
• A suggested procedure for feeding a blanched pea is as follows:
  • Choose frozen, unseasoned peas over canned or prepared varieties, as those may have preservatives and/or additives that are dangerous to or at least not good for bettas.
    
  • To blanch, boil a few frozen peas for about 4 minutes, then run cold water over them to cool. Some may fall apart during this process, but some will be left whole to use in the next step.
    
  • Remove the skin from the pea and cut it with a paring knife into pieces the size of a regular portion of food for the betta and feed to your fish.

When initially brought home and placed in their new tanks, the stress of this move and of their new environment may prompt a betta not to eat for several days. This is normal, and if no signs of disease are present, should not be an immediate cause for concern. You should continue to offer food regularly (twice daily) and remove any and all uneaten food within a few minutes if the betta does not seem interested. The period of abstinence from food can last for up to 4-5 days and still be part of the bettas adjustment to their new home, though any longer than this may be a concern and a sign of something else, such as illness. See "Acclimation" above for more tips on helping a new betta to relax.

BREEDING:

In captivity, bettas can be bred fairly easily, with the bigger challenge being raising the fry. For someone thinking about breeding, it should be noted that a single spawn can easily have hundreds of fry, and each male in that spawn will need to be isolated in his own container as he begins to mature. The first responsibility of the prospective breeder is to be prepared to care for each individual fry prior to attempting breeding.

• When attempting to breed, larger water volumes are preferable (5-10 gallons). This provides sufficient room for one of the pair to escape the other's advances if not ready to spawn, preventing harm from coming to either of them. Also, spawning is much more successful in clean waters, and the larger the water volume, the more stable and easier to keep clean it is
• The male and female should be separated until both are ready to breed, either by floating the female in a breeding trap in the male's tank, or placing plants in the breeding tank so that she can hide. This will help to prevent deadly conflicts.
  
• Water temperature of 84F may be ideal for spawning, but no higher.
• Excessive water movement in the breeding tank should be controlled so as not to disrupt the bubble nest. However, the breeding tank should be gently filtered, with a sponge filter being a good option.
  
• The tank should be kept covered at all times. A cover on the tank allows the air at the surface to stay humid and warm, much like the betta's natural environment. This will be especially beneficial to fry as they develop their labyrinth organs.
• Males will normally build bubblenests in which the eggs will hatch, but when he builds the nest (when on his own, when introduced to a female, after spawning, etc.) and how large he builds the nest can vary greatly.
• A pair that is ready to breed will begin to communicate almost instantly when introduced, with the female taking on vertical breeding stripes. They will court by swimming side by side and the male will become more aggressive lunging, slapping and biting. The female will dodge these attacks, but return. The male will intermittently tend his bubble nest between attacks and will try to lure the female beneath it by displaying his side with fins fully spread and swimming in an s-shaped, snakelike pattern. The female will flirt and will eventually approach the male beneath the bubble nest, where they will embrace. It is normal for both fish to seem stunned following this embrace, with the male recovering first to gather eggs that were released and place them into the nest.
  
• When the female has no more eggs to lay, she should be removed from the breeding tank, and the male can be removed once the fry are free-swimming. Before that time, he will be tending to them.
• Within about 24 hours, the eggs will hatch and the fry will remain in the bubblenest for a further 36 hours, hanging with their tails pointed downwards. They will gradually orient themselves horizontally and begin trying to explore away from the nest area. The male will try to contain them in the nest area, and this is the free-swimming stage for the fry at which the male betta can be removed.
  
• Micro-foods (smaller than baby brine shrimp) are needed for baby bettas less than a few days old. Vinegar eels, microworms and infusoria are fed by some breeders. Some betta fry may be able to eat baby brine shrimp right away. The presence of live plants or sponge filters in the fry's tank will provide opportunity for microorganisms that fry too small to feed on other foods can eat, possibly helping with survival rates.
• Baby brine shrimp will likely be suitable for fry older than a few days, and little tummies should be kept pink and plump
• While minding the babies, debris should be siphoned from the bottom of the tank daily and conditioned replacement water of the same temperature should be provided
• Baby bettas grow quite rapidly, and should be moved into grow-out tanks fairly soon as crowding will prevent proper growth. A typical standard is 10 fry per gallon in grow-out tanks.

COMMENTS:

Bettas are the small fish with the huge personality! Their curiosity extends to their owners, who they will soon come to recognize, and they can be very personable and playful, coming to the front of the tank to visit whenever someone approaches and wiggling around. They are very intelligent and can even be taught small tricks, such as jumping for food, hand-feeding, swimming through a hoop/tunnel, and swimming into a cup. Some also enjoy "toys" such as marbles or ping pong balls (rinsed well beforehand) that are floated on the water's surface for them to push around. Whatever their preference, each fish is its own little character, and they're so much fun to have as part of the family!

Sources:
UltimateBettas
Healthy Betta - Your #1 Source for Betta and Tropical Fish Care
The Aquarium Wiki
Nippyfish: A Betta Blog
"Animal Planet - Aquarium Care of Bettas" by David E. Boruchowitz

 

[Aquarium1]

Very nice caresheet. Good job

 

[yardjass]

Great Sheet!

Great job overall! I have one dispute. I have personally kept a male betta with male guppies and other long-finned fish without problems and I have done it multiple times in multiple tanks. I have found that when I introduce any fish to a tank with just a male betta or introduce a male betta to an already established tank, the betta will chase the other fish around regardless of what type they are. This goes on for a day or so before the betta gets over it and makes friends. This initial aggression is not to be mistaken for a problem that will persist. Unless you are keeping it with another betta, there will not be a problem with 99% of bettas. In fact, you should be more worried about the betta getting harassed by its tank mates if anything. That is what happened when I introduced glass tetras and I had to take them back.

 

[Bettababe1011]

Wow that must have been a lot if typing!! Good job, I have bettas with plastic plants though, and they have never snagged their fins at all. I've had five bettas over the years.

 

[BettaTony]

Wow that was a lot of typing you did and a lot of reading I did haha. I just bought a crowntail Betta yesterday which is now my 3rd Betta. He's in a 1.5gal and while I was reading this I notice that it said that freezes dried food and pellets causes constipation, well those r the only kind if food I have so should I go get some frozen food?

 

[BeavisMom62]

yes tony. Frozen bloodworms and Hikari betta food are pretty much the best. No freeze dried food. There are some good betta flakes, but lots of bettas won't eat flakes.

 

[Bettababe1011]

yes tony. Frozen bloodworms and Hikari betta food are pretty much the best. No freeze dried food. There are some good betta flakes, but lots of bettas won't eat flakes.

But then you get those odd bettas(my betta, Alejandro) who you are struggling to get him to eat anything other than flakes. It depends on the specific fish. Bettas are just so weird, you gotta love 'em.

 

[BeavisMom62]

Isn't that the truth, bettababe? Just like people, I guess, LOL. I'm lucky that my betta pretty much eats anything, flakes, worms, pellets. He'll even eat an occasional pea.

 

[Bettababe1011]

My one male betta that was like that just recently passed. :'(

Hopefully my new female, Shelaska, won't be a problem.

 

[pattyfurg]

Aaww my only female died not that long ago too do you know what it died from? Mine was swim bladder

 

[Bettababe1011]

Well, I'm not quite sure. I think he just got bloated, and there wasn't anything I could do... And Shelaska, who I had renamed KE$HA, jumped out of her tank...
I'm taking a break from bettas for a while because I haven't had any luck lately... It's very ironic... Bettababe has no bettas anymore...

 

[pattyfurg]

Well, I'm not quite sure. I think he just got bloated, and there wasn't anything I could do... And Shelaska, who I had renamed KE$HA, jumped out of her tank...
I'm taking a break from bettas for a while because I haven't had any luck lately... It's very ironic... Bettababe has no bettas anymore...

Oh no don't give up when I was on my 10 hour drive from sydney to Melbourne my fish started floating. I spent at least 4-5 hours pushing her to stay alive until we found a place that had peas -.- then she wouldn't eat the pea!! Now she's swimming around happy but has torn fins healing.
Just saying lol never give up I have 5 bettas and just ordered a half moon and crown tail female bettas iv spent 300 to 400 dollars on these fish -.-

 

[potatochobit]

I always keep betas in community tanks and they do really well
just need to be careful what you select along with it, no fin biters and such
them guppies need to be shown who's the boss from time to time
I have not heard of splendens until recently but I am not into fancy fish much
it is normal for a beta to just live a few years though

 

[Bettafanatic]

this is a perfect care sheet. It really covers everything and all the facts are correct. I wouldn't change anything on this care sheet. Very well done, indeed!

 

[roller55]

great info. thanks. good job

 

[Redd]

Great post! This is a must read for newbies as myself who were misled by petstore employees with lines like, "oh they don't need that much space, you can house them in a small jar". Critital info of the like led me to have overcrowded tanks that I now know was the downfall of plenty lost bettas. Sites like this are great, I just wish I knew about them a year ago. Thanks again for the post.