bought RO system on Ebay, need help with install

[Sam]

Michel, do you have a storage tank that came with the RO/DI unit? If not, then you will need one to effectively use the RO water for the house, as the dynamic output on the system is little more than a trickle. Let me know and then we can go from there. But as Zero described above, that is the principle.

Basically the tank will collect and hold RO water. When you need DI water, it passes dynamically through the DI cartridge (good ones will handle - and + ionization) so that at the other end you get RO/DI water. So basically it will drain down the storage tank first and then will continue at the osmotic rate of the membrane. This means that if you are collecting more than about 2.5 gallons of DI water, you will not have RO water available until you have shut off the DI output and the storage tank has a chance to recharge. I usually do my refills at night after doing water changes, so that the 20+ gallons of water that I need will refill during the night.

Hope this was helpful

 

[jamal-188]

CountZero, what RO/DI unit do you have? My TDS is 170 before the filter and 19 after, I thought 19 was a little hight, should I worry or is that ok?

 

[Michel]

Sam,
Thanks for your answer ! Indeed I have the unit from AquaSafe so I do have a reervoir ... however it is at the end of the cycle so it collect RO/DI water ! What you are saying is to move it back inthe chain so it collects only RO ??? And the faucet that comes with the kit where do you hook it up ?
Basically is there a lot of damage to drink DI water ??? Does it really drain minerals and is it as agreesive as said ?
Thanks for your help !

 

[Sam]

Michel, I would double check with Aquasafe, just to be sure, but last question first. "Is there a lot of damage to drink DI water?" - The answer is not straightforward. However the thinking is that removal of the hard metals and large molecule DOCs is beneficial for drinking. However, the DI unit removes all charged particles as well stripping everything else out of the water, including healthy trace elements. Personally, I do not think that drinking DI water is harmful, just like drinking distilled water. Now the more economic reason is that you do not want to use up your DI cartridge more than you have to. Bottom line is that RO water is as pure as you need to drink. DI water is for the fishes benefit only as it aids in controlling water quality and you basically add all the trace elements you need with the salt mix.

As far as your hook up, yes, the way mine is set up is before the DI cartridge. Basically just a T connection that takes the output from the RO unit and fills the tank. Hope this is clear enough, if not, give me a shout and I will explain some more.

 

[Michel]

It' fine !
Thanks

 

[Sam]

Glad to help. 8)

 

[CountZero]

CountZero, what RO/DI unit do you have? My TDS is 170 before the filter and 19 after, I thought 19 was a little hight, should I worry or is that ok?

I bought one from Aquasafecanada on Ebay, The 100 gallon per day model. One thought that might be affecting your reading, Are you rinsing the TDS meter with RO water after testing your tap water? Residue could e on it causing it to read a little high. Also, if your system is fairly new, it may improve, as initally mine was reading around 12 but stabilized around four after about 50 gallons or so.
Zero

 

[CountZero]

However, the DI unit removes all charged particles as well stripping everything else out of the water, including healthy trace elements. Personally, I do not think that drinking DI water is harmful, just like drinking distilled water

Also, I drink the same water that I put in the tank(well, except for the salt ), RO/DI water is the same thing sold as bottled water from most companys, such as Aquafina etc. I also use it to refill my 5 gallon bottles for the water cooler. Im not stressing needing to replace the filter more frequently. they are cheap compared to the rest of the money I shell out on this hobby
Zero

 

[c-bass]

Here's my problem... maybe someone can help. I have the 100 GPD aquasafe model w/ tank as well and I have a few questions about a specific setup. I don't have enough room under my kitchen sink to put this unit because of shelfing. My girlfriend is not big on me removing the shelving either. So, as much of a hassle as it is going to be, I need to figure out a way to intermittently hook my ro/di unit up each weekend to do fill ups etc... My thoughts are to place a valve on the feed line (red tubing) from the the water pipe and close it off everytime I don't need water. will this hold the pressure? secondly, this thing is a little more complicated than I expected so I have a few questions about the unit itself. The tank as I read earlier branches from the output of the RO before it goes into the DI right? So then do I place the faucet on the output of the DI and open the valve when I go to fill my rubbermaid container? Does the storage tank need to be full to produce DI water. I apologize for the long post. Trying to make sense of this.

 

[jamal-188]

CountZero, what RO/DI unit do you have? My TDS is 170 before the filter and 19 after, I thought 19 was a little hight, should I worry or is that ok?

I bought one from Aquasafecanada on Ebay, The 100 gallon per day model. One thought that might be affecting your reading, Are you rinsing the TDS meter with RO water after testing your tap water? Residue could e on it causing it to read a little high. Also, if your system is fairly new, it may improve, as initally mine was reading around 12 but stabilized around four after about 50 gallons or so.
Zero

Yeah, thats the same unit I have. I'll have to try rinsing my TDS meter off like you mentioned. I'm also have problem with this thing leaking on the intake elbow and on the opposite elboe after the 3rd canister. I used PVC cemment on the threading and even used aquarium sealant on top and it still leaks

 

[Sam]

C- Bass, some comments and questions. First off, no your storage tank does not need to be full to generate DI water. The storage tank is just useful if you have a sink faucet hook-up and allows for storage of the RO or RO/DI water under enough pressure to give you water when you open the faucet. Remember that the dynamic output of these units is a trickle, so if you wanted a glass of water to drink, without the storage tank, you will have to wait until the unit has generated (dynamically) enough water for you. Hope that clears that up.

Now as to your hook up. Is there anyway you can hook up your unit to any convenient cold water pipe that is also located near to a waste pipe? Remember the under the sink hook-up is only because of the convenience of having both the feed and drain in the same place (and usually the space to place it). If not and your only option is a mobile hook up, then you could simply install a 1/4" Jaco valve on the line and use this to shut off/put on and connect/disconnect your system to the inlet. Ditto for the waste, just in the off chance that there is a back up in the pipe, I would install a valve there as well. These valves are rated for up to approx 230Lbs. of pressure, so it will comfortably hold the standard house pressure of approx 60 PSI. As far as filling your container, be prepared that it fill only at a rate of approx 3.5 GPH, so depending on how much DI water you need, I used to run a long piece of 1/4" hose from the output of the DI cartridge to my collection container and just ckeck it every few hours. Now I have plumbed everything so it is all automatic (see my set up in my gallery). Remember if you are using this on a mobile basis, you will not need or use the faucet or storage tank. Just collect the DI output directly into your storage container.

Hope this all makes a little sense, if not let me know and I will try to answer any questions you may have. 8)

 

[CountZero]

My girlfriend is not big on me removing the shelving either

Man up... Lay down the law... Get the saw out... Then buy some Roses

Zero

P.S. If she has plants, push the "Its so much better for watering the plants" angle

 

[c-bass]

LOL... I like your spirit zero... If only it were that easy. I may opt for your plan though!

Thanks for the advice and help Sam. I will have more setup questions coming soon I imagine.

 

[c-bass]

Just thought of another. If I put the storage tank on the side of the DI output, then I can fill that tank and it will shut off after it's full without worrying about it overflowing if I forget to check on it, right? As it stands, there is a T-connection on the input side of the DI, do I just remove it and replace it with a normal quik connector or what?

 

[Sam]

C-Bass that would work just fine and yes, I assume that your system has an auto shut off valve built in so that as soon as there is enough back pressure, it will shut the system down. So if you want to collect DI water in your storage tank, just connect it to the output side, exactly as you described. Good luck 8)

 

[c-bass]

and just remove the T fitting and replace it with a standard quik connector on the input side of the DI?

 

[c-bass]

BTW... thanks for your help!!

 

[Sam]

Ryan, glad to help.

And yes, just replace the T-fitting with a "quik" connector. Remember all of these fittings are rated for 240PSI so they stay tight and dry. I have quite a few t-connectors and valves attached to my system to feed my storage container, to allow me to draw down DI water when I need it for my dips and to feed my top-off system. So far, have not had any leaks to worry about. Let me know how it goes and if you need any more assistance. I am sure that once you are done, it will all make sense then. Good luck 8)