Carey's LAST Build- 125g Reef

[carey]

well now i truly know not to EVER treat my saltie with copper...

It's the tank and live rock you dont want copper to come in contact with. In a separate tank its fine with no inverts.

Copper will wipe out half my display tank so thats not an option.

So far the fish are still acting normal.

Does anyone know how long it might be if it is indeed marine velvet until I see some signs on the other fish? The tang was clearly sick from day one and the anthias looked perfect but wasnt eating from what I could see and hiding since the tang died.

I'm not totally adverse to removing all my fish but I want to be sure before I do it. Its gonna be alot of work if I do it.

Another question though.

How long should I QT new fish for? Some say 2 weeks some say 2 months. While I want to do whats good for the fish, I dont see being in a tiny tank for months would be helpful. Which brings me to this question, how do I qt a large fish? Like a tang? If I got another blue tang I would be getting a larger one so it'd be blue this time. I cant put that in a 10g qt....


Sorry its so long, so many things running around in my head.

 

[hackteck]

some times its so hard to tell what your fish are sick with sorry for the loss

 

[carey]

ANy other ideas hack? The water parameters arent enough to be contributing to fish death are they? Or maybe I just got a bad batch of fish?

And what do you do as far as qt'ing new fish?

 

[hackteck]

i have a 20G tank i use for QTing i actually just started doing this maybe 2 months ago i leave them in QT for 2-3 weeks and monitor to see if they show any signs of disease

 

[carey]

Do you think I should get a larger qt tank while they are on sale? I have 2 10g ones so far. i also have the 55g but I dont wanna mess that up with meds or anything sickly.

Do you treat anything in the qt while you wait? any copper or any other meds?

 

[kurtyboh]

No, dont treat for anything unless there is something on the fish in there.

 

[Greenmaster]

The reason for QT your fish for 2 months is to let the display have no fish in it. Most parasites can't survive without a host so if you QT your fish and treat them, then they are usually not infected after about 2 weeks, but your tank can remain infected for longer while the parasites search for a new host so it is recommended when "resetting" a DT to keep it free from fish for two months or more.
Ich can survive QT if it stays in it's cyst form on the fish, there is no way to treat or get rid of it in this form, although the conditions of a QT are "stressful" enough then it can cause the Ich to prepare to leave the host, at which point it releases it's self from the cyst stage and would die in a treated QT.

A parasite by definition has a vested interest in co-existing with it's host. As long as no unusual disturbance takes place, it will continue it's idyllic existence , in harmony with it's host. However when a new specimen is introduced to the Aquarium, often the established inhabitants become quite excited, feeling that the newcomer will in some way, take their "space", eat their food, or even team up with their favorite fish/companion. This causes some form of chemical message to course its way through the fishes system, in much the same way, as adrenalin causes us, to become excited if we get a fright or suchlike. This chemical message, in some way alerts the parasite, which in effect says to itself, "Oh boy!, maybe I should get out from here, & look for a new host". The consequences are seen the next day, when it bores out from the host, leaving the telltale white spots.

To counteract this reaction, as much as possible, it is advised when introducing new fish to an established Aquarium, to do the following:

1) If possible quarantine the new specimen for 2 weeks. If the fish isn't eating or seems overly stressed you may need to make it shorter in order to save the fish, but you don't want to kill your other fish in an attempt to save the new one so digression is advised.
2) Introduce all specimens with the lighting as subdued as possible in the room, & with no lights on in the tank, continue this at least until the following day.
3) Change if possible one or two rocks, so that the existing fish are concentrating their attention on the change in the habitat they are used to, & not on the newcomer(s).

 

[Greenmaster]

No, dont treat for anything unless there is something on the fish in there.

If you are not treating your fish I suggest you keep them in the QT longer rather then shorter. A fish can be infected and not show signs for the first week or more. Most importantly, watch your fish closely in a QT to make sure that they are okay and haven't started to develop any signs of infection/infestation, especially in the final few days leading up to introduction to the DT.

 

[Greenmaster]

Do you think I should get a larger qt tank while they are on sale? I have 2 10g ones so far. i also have the 55g but I dont wanna mess that up with meds or anything sickly.

Do you treat anything in the qt while you wait? any copper or any other meds?

If you are not going to treat everything then I would QT in the 55 for supervision and if they develop symptoms I would move them to a smaller tank for treatment, once treatment has completed I would put it back into the 55g (after cleaning and "sterilizing" the 55g) Unless you would like to purchase a larger QT, if you have space and money, that is probably the better way to go.

 

[carey]

Ok, so I shouldnt treat any incoming fish unless there is a problem? Put them in a qt for 2 weeks and observe is the best course of action?

I still have the fish in my 125g with no symptoms of anything wrong.

I think I'll pass on the 55g especially if a fish has something I dont' wanna be sterilizing a tank. LOL

Plus I am selling it. Just havent gotten around to it yet.

I was thinking of getting several schooling fish, a 10g wouldbt be enough for that many fish for 2 weeks would it? I have an extra 20 bucks so I can go get another tank i suppose. Just trying to avoid any more deaths.

 

[Grizz]

I use a 20g rubbermaid tub for QT. easy to clean and it puts less stress on the fish as they dont see random movements the room i use the 'stock single bulb light' 50/50 over it with a small hob and heater
I QT at least 3 weeks unless the fish seems too stressed i keep my QT 2 degrees warmer than my DT the idea is if theres any thing the warmer temp will make it rear it ugly head sooner

 

[huma-huma]

Yeah a 10 g isn't gonna be big enough for several schooling fish.....you'd probably run the risk of actually stressing them too much, resulting in sickness.

 

[carey]

So would a 20g tall or long be better for a qt?

 

[Greenmaster]

Probably long as it would allow more side to side swimming room for the larger fish in QT.

 

[huma-huma]

Def long, as for previously stated reasons

 

[Grizz]

a 20 long is better just for the above reason thats what i was using till my wife turned it into a DT now i use the totes to ugly for a DT lol i use the semi clear as they let the light in

 

[carey]

hmm having a real problem finding a place for the 20l qt. i am literally fish tanked out. The only section I had I bought a 20L for my community tank upgrade. I also had a hard time geting a tand that was 30", I got the last one on clearance. lol

I'm rethinking putting fish in the 55g now. If they get sick I figure I'll move them into 10g tanks.

It's the best i can do.

On another note, I think I lost one of my cleaner shrimp, havent seen him since he went in and he was a tiny little guy. It's like the death tank these days. My starfish also is loosing a leg from some white gunk but the rest of him looks fine.

Grrr...more problems.

 

[huma-huma]

Carey, did you ever consider mounting a 20 long underneath one of your 125's? I mean yes its gonna tank up space for a refugium but its prob the most convenient and economical spot. Not to mention that a 20 is tiny in comparison to a 125

 

[carey]

Both 125's are full. I have the sump in the reef one and the fluval fx5 which is HUGE under the other.

I may be able to keep a 10g on the shelf of the new stand i got for my freshwater build. And the 55g is split in half with a support beam and wall so it wont fit in there. :-(

Good thoughts though....i just wish i had the room. My mind is still working on it though. I still want a 40B while petco is running their sale. Thatd be a great tank to get.

 

[huma-huma]

See I've never understood the benefits of a breeder tank....and I thought I was overflowing with tanks.... I do however have 2 spare rooms that may possibly become a feed room for breeding.....