cyanobacteria outbreaks!

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Abrams96

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
142
Location
Ontario, Canada
Im looking for some advice on my 55. Its lightly planted with kitty litter substrate, t5s on only 6hrs a day.
I keep getting nasty cyanobacteria, ill take as much out as possible by hand then dose with hydrogen peroxide. It will clear up crystal clear within a couple hours but 2 or 3 days later it starts crawling back. If left untreated for say a couple weeks it will darn near carpet my entire tank...and the smell..ugh..please help? ? What else can I do? ?
 
hmm.. I was going to reccommend dosing with H2O2 but you already have done that, how is your filtraton and water movement. What is your stock and parameters. Do you have CO2 injection? Any air stones etc. Some pictures would help!
 
hmm.. I was going to reccommend dosing with H2O2 but you already have done that, how is your filtraton and water movement. What is your stock and parameters. Do you have CO2 injection? Any air stones etc. Some pictures would help!

I have 2 HOB Filters ..one biowheel one aquaclear... also a powerhead with air valve. ..lots of movement lots of oxygen. ..water parameters are fine..Im strict on my PWC...everything is good other then a high PH..but is the same water as my other tanks which are fine. And im lightly stocked. Im lost
 
I have 2 HOB Filters ..one biowheel one aquaclear... also a powerhead with air valve. ..lots of movement lots of oxygen. ..water parameters are fine..Im strict on my PWC...everything is good other then a high PH..but is the same water as my other tanks which are fine. And im lightly stocked. Im lost

Has a fish recently passed? is it concentrated in one area?

It is obviously getting a food source (nutrients in the water) and having adequate lighting for photosynthesis. I'm quite lost also.
 
Ive had zero deaths in this tank. .and I have java ferns, anubias and swords. And im no longer dosing excel, havent in months in hopes of it clearing. But no luck.
 
Ive had zero deaths in this tank. .and I have java ferns, anubias and swords. And im no longer dosing excel, havent in months in hopes of it clearing. But no luck.
How are your existing plants, dieing? If they are dieing or melting or rotting remove those leaves and pieces because that could be feeding it.
 
Plants are slow growing due to me cutting back on the photo period but are all very green and healthy. And im prompt in removing any dieing or decaying matter..lol..see my frustration
 
Plants are slow growing due to me cutting back on the photo period but are all very green and healthy. And im prompt in removing any dieing or decaying matter..lol..see my frustration
Jeez its like the impossible growth haha! Um, recently gravel vacced or anything??
 
this may help, i only skimmed but here.
"E) How to rid your freshwater aquarium of cyanobacteria:
I KNOW VERY LITTLE ABOUT SALTWATER AQUARIUMS, SO THE PROCESS YOU USE MIGHT BE A LITTLE DIFFERENT.
Start with water changes, they are the best way to rid your tank of cyanobacteria. Don't clean filters, they contain the good bacteria as well as the bad. If you do weekly water changes, you will lower the nitrate levels in your tank, which is good for your tank anyway. Also, make sure you clean the tank thoroughly including, decorations, fake plants and gravel. If you have real plants, try to clean them with a gravel vac or maybe even use a turkey baster, (try and suck the cyanobacteria off of them.) Do this every time you do water changes. The most common thoughts on this is to do a fifty percent water change then do a twenty five percent water change, then to do ten to twenty percent water change. Until your nitrate levels are at or near zero. You may need to do more than weekly water changes to get your tanks nitrate levels to zero. If the bacteria infestation still persists. Feed the fish less, they won't starve if you limit the feeding, just watch them carefully and make sure they are still healthy. Cyanobacteria does not seem to effect fish in the early stages, you might not even notice any problems at all. Continue to do your water changes. Also limit the light your tank gets. Cyanobacteria need light to survive, so by limiting the light your tank gets, you cut down the energy the cyanobacteria need to survive. Still do the water changes and keep the nitrates at or near zero. You might even put light on a timer to regulate the light more effectively. You can use the black out method to get rid of cyanobacteria, but this method is not the safest way to get rid of cyanobacteria. As the cyanobacteria dies, it lands on substrate and is absorbed by the water column. If not filtered and cleaned properly, it will cause your tank to foul even more when you quit the blackout. If you haven't filtered and cleaned enough, the cyanobacteria will return with a vengeance. Next, make sure your phosphate levels are within normal (which they should be if you are doing your water changes). Co2 and oxygen play a part in the life cycle of cyanobacteria. Make sure that you have good co2 levels and that there is plenty of oxygen in your tank. Add air stones if you don't have them and make sure you have good filtration. So what else can you do to rid tank? If you do water changes, limit light, don't over feed, make sure phosphates levels are good, the co2 and oxygen are good, and still the cyanobacteria thrives. You can use fish medication like Maredl Maracyn or your favorite type as long as it contains Erythromycin. Use as directed, don't overdose!! Medication also has draw backs. The bacteria can develop a resistance to the medication, so be careful when using. Also, medication may kill good bacteria. So you have to watch your tank very carefully. Test frequently to assure that your tank is healthy.

I found this information to late for my plants. I removed them from my tank and replaced them with fake plants. Cleaned all decorations and changed fifty percent of the water, then added the Erythromycin for five days doing water changes every other day. After two days the cyanobacteria started to fade away. After five days all signs were gone. I tested the water conditions at five days and found that the nitrates were high. I assume that the bacteria was masking the real nitrate levels to look lower than they actually were, did water changes till the nitrate levels were at normal levels. I also started to feed less food, and cut back the lighting two hours a day. It's been two weeks now and the tank looks great. The fish are healthy and active, and I feel much better that I may have found the cause for the problem. Time will tell."

Sourced from: Cyanobacteria
 
this may help, i only skimmed but here.
"E) How to rid your freshwater aquarium of cyanobacteria:
I KNOW VERY LITTLE ABOUT SALTWATER AQUARIUMS, SO THE PROCESS YOU USE MIGHT BE A LITTLE DIFFERENT.
Start with water changes, they are the best way to rid your tank of cyanobacteria. Don't clean filters, they contain the good bacteria as well as the bad. If you do weekly water changes, you will lower the nitrate levels in your tank, which is good for your tank anyway. Also, make sure you clean the tank thoroughly including, decorations, fake plants and gravel. If you have real plants, try to clean them with a gravel vac or maybe even use a turkey baster, (try and suck the cyanobacteria off of them.) Do this every time you do water changes. The most common thoughts on this is to do a fifty percent water change then do a twenty five percent water change, then to do ten to twenty percent water change. Until your nitrate levels are at or near zero. You may need to do more than weekly water changes to get your tanks nitrate levels to zero. If the bacteria infestation still persists. Feed the fish less, they won't starve if you limit the feeding, just watch them carefully and make sure they are still healthy. Cyanobacteria does not seem to effect fish in the early stages, you might not even notice any problems at all. Continue to do your water changes. Also limit the light your tank gets. Cyanobacteria need light to survive, so by limiting the light your tank gets, you cut down the energy the cyanobacteria need to survive. Still do the water changes and keep the nitrates at or near zero. You might even put light on a timer to regulate the light more effectively. You can use the black out method to get rid of cyanobacteria, but this method is not the safest way to get rid of cyanobacteria. As the cyanobacteria dies, it lands on substrate and is absorbed by the water column. If not filtered and cleaned properly, it will cause your tank to foul even more when you quit the blackout. If you haven't filtered and cleaned enough, the cyanobacteria will return with a vengeance. Next, make sure your phosphate levels are within normal (which they should be if you are doing your water changes). Co2 and oxygen play a part in the life cycle of cyanobacteria. Make sure that you have good co2 levels and that there is plenty of oxygen in your tank. Add air stones if you don't have them and make sure you have good filtration. So what else can you do to rid tank? If you do water changes, limit light, don't over feed, make sure phosphates levels are good, the co2 and oxygen are good, and still the cyanobacteria thrives. You can use fish medication like Maredl Maracyn or your favorite type as long as it contains Erythromycin. Use as directed, don't overdose!! Medication also has draw backs. The bacteria can develop a resistance to the medication, so be careful when using. Also, medication may kill good bacteria. So you have to watch your tank very carefully. Test frequently to assure that your tank is healthy.

I found this information to late for my plants. I removed them from my tank and replaced them with fake plants. Cleaned all decorations and changed fifty percent of the water, then added the Erythromycin for five days doing water changes every other day. After two days the cyanobacteria started to fade away. After five days all signs were gone. I tested the water conditions at five days and found that the nitrates were high. I assume that the bacteria was masking the real nitrate levels to look lower than they actually were, did water changes till the nitrate levels were at normal levels. I also started to feed less food, and cut back the lighting two hours a day. It's been two weeks now and the tank looks great. The fish are healthy and active, and I feel much better that I may have found the cause for the problem. Time will tell."
Sourced from: Cyanobacteria

Thank you for posting this. Unfortunatley I have done everything listed with no success. I have no problem getting rid of it..it just returns almost instantaneously. Finding the source is driving me nuts.
 
What are your nitrate levels? In my experience it thrives In an environment lacking nitrate. Anytime my nitrate hits 5-10 its starts to take over

My nitrate levels are maintained at about 10ppm..only because there are slight nitrate levels right from my well...but I use the same water in all my tanks and ive never had a trace of it in any others.
 
Have you treated with antibiotics yet? In my opinion, H2O2 only really works well for BGA when it's just getting a foothold. Once it really gets going, you need something more systemic to quash it. Some people have tried H2O2 plus an extended blackout, but with sporadic success. Using a full course of Erythromycin is far an away the best way to eliminate it flat out.
 
Have you treated with antibiotics yet? In my opinion, H2O2 only really works well for BGA when it's just getting a foothold. Once it really gets going, you need something more systemic to quash it. Some people have tried H2O2 plus an extended blackout, but with sporadic success. Using a full course of Erythromycin is far an away the best way to eliminate it flat out.

No I have not tried Erythromycin. The H202 does a fantastic job..literally half an hour and youd never know it was there, but back it comes. Where can I get erythromycin and what are the risks of dosing it?...will it endanger my fish or plants or BB?
 
No I have not tried Erythromycin. The H202 does a fantastic job..literally half an hour and youd never know it was there, but back it comes. Where can I get erythromycin and what are the risks of dosing it?...will it endanger my fish or plants or BB?

H2O2 is great stuff, but it's best applied topically. I've used it when I see BGA just starting (and haven't had it recently), because I know that it's relatively locally confined and I can liberally nuke a small part of the tank. It's very easy for it to miss cluster of BGA in gravel, under plants, etc, that effectively 'seed' the BGA for round 2, 3, 4.....

I've used Erythromycin about a half dozen times in the past, always to treat BGA and never with a loss of fish, plant, or biofilter. It is, in my opinion, quite safe to use. You can get it at most fish stores, either being sold as straight erythromycin or under the label of Maracyn (by maradel).
 
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