cycling trouble

[terryeckel]

i'm new here and i've got a 55 gallon tank that i have constant water problems. i have a bio-filter and 2 power heads in use. i don't think the tank has ever cycled correctly. i've never had any algea, i'll randomly loose fish and have to add chemical to bring down the nitrite level. i have 14 fish in the tank right now. no live plants. anyone have any advice ?

 

[RussellC]

i'm new here and i've got a 55 gallon tank that i have constant water problems. i have a bio-filter and 2 power heads in use. i don't think the tank has ever cycled correctly. i've never had any algea, i'll randomly loose fish and have to add chemical to bring down the nitrite level. i have 14 fish in the tank right now. no live plants. anyone have any advice ?

I think you've come to the right place.

First, ditch the chemicals. Frequent partial water changes are your best defense against toxins building up in your tanks. The chemicals are a short-term band-aid at best, and often can inhibit the cycle, creating more harm than good long-term.

Give this article a read. It should be very helpful, and if after you've read it you have any follow-up questions, ask!

Fish-in Cycling: Step over into the dark side - Aquarium Advice

But again, water changes, water changes water changes!

Best!

 

[RussellC]

Just as a follow-up, you may also find this article helpful.

I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

Good luck!

 

[Borderlesscott]

i'm new here and i've got a 55 gallon tank that i have constant water problems. i have a bio-filter and 2 power heads in use. i don't think the tank has ever cycled correctly. i've never had any algea, i'll randomly loose fish and have to add chemical to bring down the nitrite level. i have 14 fish in the tank right now. no live plants. anyone have any advice ?

Some more info would be great, type of tank, fish, temperature any water test results ammonia, nitrite etc, how long tank has been running - this would really help pinpoint what's happening.

 

[terryeckel]

i'll have water tested today and get all this info back and see what you think.

 

[Phranque]

i'll have water tested today and get all this info back and see what you think.

Next purchase you need to make is your own test kit.... Don't depend on your lfs to monitor your parameters. When in a cycle, you need to test pretty much every day and perform the required pwc's to keep your water safe for your fish.

http://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATE...TF8&qid=1341500498&sr=8-1&keywords=api+master

 

[tamtam]

Once you get back with more details it will be a lot easier ot give better answers. Sounds like it could be a few things though.

You may just have a new tank that is cycling still, it's a long process and can be a bit of a pain.

Or there may be something more serious at work here. You may have an over stocked tank depending on what your 14 fish are. If your bioload is too large its going to put your water all over the place.

You should avoid additives as much as possible. If you use something like Prime it's really all you need unless a certain illness pops up that you need to medicate for. Adding things to raise and lower levels just causes more issues. As mentioned it's like a band aid solution. Most important is finding out WHY something is happening.

your fish death are probably from spikes in either ammonia or nitrite. Not so much random. So many people think that clear water means good water but it's very far from the truth, there is a lot going on in there. lol.

 

[terryeckel]

my tank is 55 gallon and has barbs, danios, loaches, leporidus, and a catfish and algea. the tanks been going for over a year and has never what i consider correct. the ph, nitrates vary alot, don't seem to have ammonia problems ??? the tank has never had algea in it. i have 2 power heads, a penguin bio wheel350 and some bubblers. newer heater. i think i've got the proper eqpt. i probably not done enough water changes but now i'm retired and have alot of time to dedicate and i really want to get into taking great care of it.

 

[Phranque]

If you've been up & running for over a year, then you're likely cycled with the filtration you have. I'd say you have OTS (old tank syndrome) with some really high nitrates. Get your testing kit, and start doing small water changes (5%) every day for a while. If you do large water changes off the bat, you will shock you fish and could have a die-off..... bring them back slowly.

Edit: link for OTS....

http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/problemsolving/f/old_tank_syndrome.htm

 

[tamtam]

how many of each fish and what kinds???

 

[terryeckel]

2 loaches, 2 leporidus, 2 danios, 5 barbs, 1 catfish ans 1 algea eater.

 

[Steelhawke]

Two things, Terry. 1. Welcome to the forums, this a great place filled with a lot of helpful people, and 2. Welcome to the wonderful world of retirement. I became a member last December. Now that you have joined that club, you can spend so many hours reading over these forum pages. I sit here for hours to reading and checking my fish. I have a 55 gal as well and since I spend so much time reading, I've learned so much and have redone my tank the right way. Plus I have picked up a couple more small tanks and will try to start breeding some. Good luck with your tank and hope to see more posts from you.

 

[terryeckel]

ok here's the test results i had done at pets mart. ammonia-0 nitrite1-0 nitrate 200 ph 6.2 alkalinity 80-120 hardness 300 . as i said before i have 2 power heads for under gravel system, penguine bio-wheel 350, bubble stone and a good heater. i have 2 leporitus, 2 clown loaches, 2 danios, 5 barbs, 1 catfish and a algea eater. i don't think the tank ever cycled right. it's never had algea and i seem to always have something wrong when the water is tested. i haven't done water changes like i should but now i have more time to put into it. please advise me what direction to take. i put prime in it till i know what to do next. thanks

 

[terryeckel]

why would cause no algea ??

 

[Phranque]

200 Nitrates !!!???

Read my previous post. With 0 ammonia & 0 nitrites, you are cycled, and DEFINITELY have OTS. Do very small water changes every day for about the next 30-45 days.... talking 2 to 3 gallons at a time. You need to cut your nitrates by about 90% (ideally you want <20ppm), but I can't stress enough that this needs to be done gradually. And absolutely don't add anything else to the tank during this process.

 

[terryeckel]

should i add any prime ? why do you think i have no algae

 

[blert]

There is always algae. Whether you see copious amounts of it is another story. Let's work on your nitrate issue for now...
During this whole process FEED SPARINGLY, only a small amount every two or three days.
First, you need your own test kit. The amount of nitrate tests you will be doing is going to cost you a bunch in gas if you are going back and forth to the LFS.
To start, as Phranque said, go slow so as to not shock your fish.
You need to know what the nitrate level of your source water is. That will be the first thing to test.
Start with 3 gallons daily and test for nitrate one hour after the PWC. Chart your progress.

Undergravel filters are a mess and after one year there is probably so much gunk under there that it would make you hurl. Do your water changes from one of the tubes, while plugging up the other so that you get good suction, and switch tubes every water change. This will hopefully help pull some funk out of there. Good luck and keep us posted please.

 

[terryeckel]

i just ordered the test kit that phranque recomended. i've got the python syphon hose system. how would i adapt to the power head tube ? do you recommend doing away with the power heads ?

 

[blert]

i just ordered the test kit that phranque recomended. i've got the python syphon hose system. how would i adapt to the power head tube ? do you recommend doing away with the power heads ?

IMO, do away with the undergravel filter all together but that is a big job and would require you to bust down the tank.

If you take off one of the power heads does the end of the hose fit over the tube?

 

[blert]

i just ordered the test kit that phranque recomended. i've got the python syphon hose system. how would i adapt to the power head tube ? do you recommend doing away with the power heads ?

Just had a thought, hurt too.
Get yourself some vinyl tubing that fits over the output of the power head. Leave the power head attached to the UGF and pump the water out. Quick and painless.

Every couple of water changes do a good job vacuuming a SMALL patch of gravel. Don't do too much at a time and don't be real aggressive with it or you could release a bunch of toxins into the water column.