I watched a video on youtube on how to make one. he took a 1liter bottle cut off the top, cut a hydro sponge to fit inside the plastic container he had made, and then stuck a piece of PVC down the middle leaving like a one inch gap at the bottom with the pipe hid in the sponge. then put the air pump line just far enough inside the bottle to where the bubbles were not coming out of the bottom and made sure it came out of the top does this sound right? Also I remember you saying something in one of your post In wigglers at last about using your air stone wrong and it killed the fry in the jar. How does the air pump play a role in hatching the fry?
Finally I have a pair
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Andy Sager
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I'd need to see the video you are talking about to know for sure. Sounds like a few extra steps than what I do. The whole object is to have the air bubbles that are rising through the tube pull the water into the tube via the sponge so that the BB in the sponge can get good oxygenated water going past them.
As for what role an airpump plays in hatching the fry, the air pump supplies the air to the airstones that move the water in front of the eggs to replace the parents fanning the eggs keeping higher oxygenated water to the eggs and keeping debris from falling on the eggs and killing them. The airflow needs to be not so strong that it blows the eggs off the site but strong enough to produce water movement over the eggs.
As for my situation, if you look at the picture of my "OOPS" spawn, the rock is hanging down only half way to the bottom of the bottle. Since I was using an airstone and the stone was being kept down by the rock, the bubbles were only starting at mid level so that the eggs were getting the benefit of the moving water. When the eggs hatched, they fell off the rock and settled at the bottom of the bottle. From past experience, I know that the water movement would be minimal at the bottom unless the airstone was down there but I neglected to weigh the airline down to fix this. I'd bet that if you took an oxygen meter to that bottle, the water near the bottom would have been void of oxygen while the upper areas would have had plenty. Dumb mistake on my part but hey, it happens. I'll not do that again
Hope that answers your question
Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
This one is more to what I do. My only comments would be:
I don;t use air stones in mine, I drill a hole in the side and insert 3/16" rigid tubing at an angle just as the Jungle/ Lee's filters do. Since I am using smaller vibrating pumps ATM, I have to watch my back pressure. The open line will still move a lot of water. The airstones, should you use them, should have coarse bubbles not fine bubbles to maximize water movement.
Side note: I am not a specialist in physics but I would think that putting the airstone all the way down to the bottom of the tube would decrease the amount of water flow through the sponge do to the area the bubbles take up within the pipe. I place my airline just above the first section of drilled holes so that all those bubbles are pulling water from below them which is actually coming through the sponge.
On his multi sponge piece, he neglected to say ( or I didn;t hear him say) that when he takes one off to use it in another tank, that sponge needs to be replaced or the other ones on the stem will not get the proper water flow through them. The water will have less resistance through the open holes so the sponged sections will have reduced input and likely kill of the BB.
As for weight, I'm using pre-drilled smaller pored sponges so the holes use a 1" diameter connector. I have reduced the piping down to 3/4" and even 1/2" but the base is still that 1" and I just put some gravel or small stones in the tube below the holes to weight the filter down. This way, I am not adding anything unnatural to the tank. I don;t see anything wrong with what he did with the tile so it's "dealer's choice" on how you want to weight it down. You do want to have the sponge lifted off the bottom so that you get better all around flow through the sponge.
Happy building
I don;t use air stones in mine, I drill a hole in the side and insert 3/16" rigid tubing at an angle just as the Jungle/ Lee's filters do. Since I am using smaller vibrating pumps ATM, I have to watch my back pressure. The open line will still move a lot of water. The airstones, should you use them, should have coarse bubbles not fine bubbles to maximize water movement.
Side note: I am not a specialist in physics but I would think that putting the airstone all the way down to the bottom of the tube would decrease the amount of water flow through the sponge do to the area the bubbles take up within the pipe. I place my airline just above the first section of drilled holes so that all those bubbles are pulling water from below them which is actually coming through the sponge.
On his multi sponge piece, he neglected to say ( or I didn;t hear him say) that when he takes one off to use it in another tank, that sponge needs to be replaced or the other ones on the stem will not get the proper water flow through them. The water will have less resistance through the open holes so the sponged sections will have reduced input and likely kill of the BB.
As for weight, I'm using pre-drilled smaller pored sponges so the holes use a 1" diameter connector. I have reduced the piping down to 3/4" and even 1/2" but the base is still that 1" and I just put some gravel or small stones in the tube below the holes to weight the filter down. This way, I am not adding anything unnatural to the tank. I don;t see anything wrong with what he did with the tile so it's "dealer's choice" on how you want to weight it down. You do want to have the sponge lifted off the bottom so that you get better all around flow through the sponge.
Happy building
Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
Highly unlikely it's eggs at the bottom and at that angle. Might just be dirt that has attached to the rubber band or was on the band when you put it in the water. I just angle my slates so that they stay up or I use a small piece of rock to perch the slate on so it doesn't slide.
That being said, I had a pair recently spawn on the wire to my heater so they will spawn on a thin strip.
Hey I finally got my koi pair in one is doing perfect but the other is laying on his side and will only swim around for a few min, then he lays back on his side on the bottom he is moving his gills normal and mouth and fins fine but just keeps on laying over what do I do ????
????
Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
Contact the seller and ask if this fish was doing that before he shipped it. Laying on a side is not a good sign for most fish yet you say the fish eats which is usually a sign the fish is not too badly stressed. These are contradictory signs your fish is showing. Check your water parameters and discuss your acclimation with the seller and see what they have to say.Hey I finally got my koi pair in one is doing perfect but the other is laying on his side and will only swim around for a few min, then he lays back on his side on the bottom he is moving his gills normal and mouth and fins fine but just keeps on laying over what do I do
Sorry I can't be more help on this
I tried to contact him no reply but I will check the water is there any kind of medicine I can use when I got them he was laying flat on his side so I assume it was the entire time they were being shipped (2 days) could this be the cause?
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Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
For starters, please use some punctuation in your posts. These are not texts so run on sentences don't always make sense.
Second, you can't medicate a fish for something when you don't know what that something is. Do you take medicines arbitrarily or do you take them for specific reasons? Fish are the same. You need to treat a specific disease or infection with specific meds and "laying on a side" is not a disease so there is no medicine for it.
When shipped, fish will lay down in the bag usually due to the darkness or colder temps it may be feeling. If your fish was laying in the bag when you opened the box, this could be why. Usually, these same fish will start swimming upright as the acclimation progresses. If yours hasn't done that, and it's more than 24 hours since putting the fish in the tank, the fish may have suffered a neurological problem or possibly is still in shock from the move or possibly had a stroke? Any of these things are possible and need to be ruled out through the shipper. Ask about the fish's "quirks" or behavior abnormalities before it was shipped. Can't do too much more without these answers.
Hope this helps
Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
Great, you are 1/3 of the way there The first 1/3 is getting them to spawn, the second is to get the eggs to hatch, the third is to have the wigglers become free swimmers and eat. Not to be a gloomy Gus but things can ( and do ) go wrong at each stage so I always hold my excitement until I see free swimmers. (But that's just me lol )
keep me posted
The first 1/3 is getting them to spawn, the second is to get the eggs to hatch, the third is to have the wigglers become free swimmers and eat. Not to be a gloomy Gus but things can ( and do ) go wrong at each stage so I always hold my excitement until I see free swimmers. (But that's just me lol )keep me posted
Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
The majority of my fish hatch in 3 days @ 78-80 degrees, wiggle for 6-7 days before free swimming. I have had some free swimming in 6 days and one did 5 days. Just remember, the warmer the water, the faster everything happens
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