First corals...

[MarkW19]

If the corals have to be in seperate bags Steve, I'll have to acclimate one at a time. Each one will take about an hour to acclimate...if I float the closed shipping bags for each coral in my tank while one is being acclimated, would that be ok?

I'm getting in total 7 individual corals (inc. 2 mushroom species and 2 button polyps). That'd mean the last coral to be acclimated would be in it's shipping bag floating for over 6 1/2 hours.

What do you think? Or would you perhaps get half of the coral at a time and then get the rest at a later date, meaning the "last" coral would only be in its bag for about 3 hours?

 

[steve-s]

If the corals have to be in seperate bags Steve, I'll have to acclimate one at a time. Each one will take about an hour to acclimate...if I float the closed shipping bags for each coral in my tank while one is being acclimated, would that be ok?

Why one at a time? Remove enough water from the tank to float all the bags equally. Once removed for drip acclimation the tank water can be replaced easily enough. All the corals can be acclimated simultaniously using a few airline tubes. I can see no reason to only do one at a time.

I'm getting in total 7 individual corals (inc. 2 mushroom species and 2 button polyps). That'd mean the last coral to be acclimated would be in it's shipping bag floating for over 6 1/2 hours.

The shrooms can be acclimated together as can the button polyps. As I said only corals of different types must be bagged seperately. The third coral being an unknown I couldn't say.

What do you think? Or would you perhaps get half of the coral at a time and then get the rest at a later date, meaning the "last" coral would only be in its bag for about 3 hours?

I don't see why all cannot be done at the same time?

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

I had a bit of trouble getting the drip to work with just a tube and a knot before, so I used a powerhead and a clamp over the end of the pipe...I guess I'm not doing it right

I'll time it so that I'll do a waterchange the next day after the corals have been put in, to replace the water that was used for the drip.

What about my previous question about lighting etc.? Then, hopefully, that should be the last question

 

[MarkW19]

Re actinics: Is the idea that the actinic tube is placed directly above the corals? ie. if most of the corals are in the middle of the tank, the actinic tube(s) should be in the middle of the tank overhead? Or doesn't it matter?

 

[steve-s]

I had a bit of trouble getting the drip to work with just a tube and a knot before, so I used a powerhead and a clamp over the end of the pipe...I guess I'm not doing it right

You could also make a "U" with the tubing by folding it over and loosely wrapping an elastic around the bent area of the hose. By changing the diameter of the loop in the hose, you can increase or decrease the flow.

Re lighting, I've just got my actinics today and I like the "cool" effect, but actually prefer the look of just the whites without the actinics, I think it's sharper and brighter. So, how about just having the whites on during my main viewing period, ie. 8pm - 11pm. That'd be actinics alone from 2pm-3pm, whites and actinics from 3pm-8pm, just whites from 8pm-11pm, both from 11pm-1am, and just actinics from 1am-2am. How's that? Or could it unbalance my fish changing the lights about like that?

Having the lights going on and off like that would be counter productive. If you do not like the look of the actinic/white combo then just go with the white bulbs only. It's your tank and your choice but try keeping some sort of consistant routine with a full 8-12 hour period with all the lights going at the same time

Re actinics: Is the idea that the actinic tube is placed directly above the corals? ie. if most of the corals are in the middle of the tank, the actinic tube(s) should be in the middle of the tank overhead? Or doesn't it matter

Doesn't really matter but when you consider most of the corals tend to end up along the middle of the tang lengthwise, I would have the whites in the mid position and the actinic on the outside.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

I guess the actinics would benefit my corals a lot though. So if I want to keep corals maybe it's a sacrifice I'll have to make!

On another note, I currently have a carbonate hardness of 8dkH, which I guess is in the lower region of the acceptable range.

But, could this go down even further? When I add my last 2 fish, and then my softcorls/polyps/shrooms, will/could this go down?

It hasn't gone down in 7 months, but then again I only have 2 fish in!

The only differences with the corals is I'll be using the carbon for 4 days a month, and possibly a bit of live phyto once a week, and of course the increased lighting. With the addition of my new fish and corals, can these factors cause the carbonate hardness/alkalinity to go down?

 

[steve-s]

I guess the actinics would benefit my corals a lot though. So if I want to keep corals maybe it's a sacrifice I'll have to make!

Actinics are not necessary or required only sufficient light intensity. If you don't like the look of the actinic, there's no reason you must use it. The only loss would be that the fluorescence of the corals will not be noticed much but the colors will still be present.

On another note, I currently have a carbonate hardness of 8dkH, which I guess is in the lower region of the acceptable range.

Your alkalinity is fine and actually at the higher end somewhat but I can't tell you if it needs changing or not without the Ca reading. Anything between 4.2-8.4 DKH is within NSW levels. Anything higher is unneccesary.

But, could this go down even further? When I add my last 2 fish, and then my softcorls/polyps/shrooms, will/could this go down?

Acids and wastes produces by animals and other organisms will afeect alkalinity as well as pH. It should not be that much of a concern with regular water changes. With a properly maintained tank either by water changes (best for a softie tank) or chemical addition through testing first, you won't have any concerns.

It hasn't gone done in 7 months (--edit--), but then again I only have 2 fish in!

With regular water changes and the proper amount of foods fed, it should rerly change unless there is a heavy CaCO3 demand created by either scleractinians or coralline growth.

The only differences with the corals is I'll be using the carbon for 4 days a month, and possibly a bit of live phyto once a week, and of course the increased lighting. With the addition of my new fish and corals, can these factors cause the carbonate hardness/alkalinity to go down?

No, not IME.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

I thought it was 8 - 10 dkH that was needed?

Would you call 2 T5 39w whites suitable lighting for my tank?

I guess there won't be a heavy CaCO3 demand from just my few corals though?

I'll monitor the alkalinity and pH after I've got my new additions, and add Proper pH (8.2) to my waterchange water if necessary.

 

[steve-s]

I thought it was 8 - 10 dkH that was needed?

Depends on the level of calcium in the tank as well. NSW levels are 1.5-3 mEq/l. Anything higher than that is artificial and serves no benefit. I would however suggest keeping it in the 2.5-3 mEq/l with scleratinians though. With what you have now, your just fine although as I said it would help to know the Ca.

Would you call 2 T5 39w whites suitable lighting for my tank?

Not really. 4x39w T5 would be much better. Whether that be all whites or the combo.

I guess there won't be a heavy CaCO3 demand from just my few corals though?

With the corals we've discussed thus far, no.

I'll monitor the alkalinity and pH after I've got my new additions, and add Proper pH (8.2) to my waterchange water if necessary.

Don't add chems specifically for pH. Test the pH and and alk. If alk is high and pH is low, then it's environmental and adding chems would be a temporary bandaid and could lead to larger concerns. If alk and pH are both low, then add a buffer to boost the alk to where it should be balanced with Ca and that should also fix the pH.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

I'm going to keep the actinics for now. When the tubes go, I may replace them both with whites, or maybe one white and one actinic (so I'll have 3 whites and 1 actinic). Will see how it goes

I'll get a Calcium testing kit. I guess if the levels are too low when I've got my corals, I'll have to use Kalk or something though?

 

[steve-s]

I'll get a Calcium testing kit. I guess if the levels are too low when I've got my corals, I'll have to use Kalk or something though?

No, if the Ca is low and unbalanced against the alk, kalkwasser will be of no use. Kalk is a balanced additive so when added both alk and Ca are raised equally. If you find that the Ca needs a boost, you will need a CaCl product to augment only the Ca side of the equation.

Given the size of your tank, a few water chnages would be an easier route depending on how the saltmix tests.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

I use Instant Ocean...some say it's not that good for reefs. Will see how it goes though.

 

[MarkW19]

Tomorrow I'm starting the acclimate of the new lights for my fish.

But, should I be doing whites all day (as I am now) and introduce the actinics slowly, or the other way round (ie. actinics all day)? Will the sudden change from mainly whites to mainly actinics over the next few days affect my fish?

And, once I've finished the acclimate for my current fish, I'll be doing an acclimate again when I get my corals in a few weeks! Will this not upset my current fish that will already have been through one light acclimate, to do one again?

And, finally re. the pieces of liverock that the corals and polyps (I guess the polyps will come on larger pieces of LR than the individual corals) come on, as long as my LFS says its cured it's ok to put straight in with the coral?

 

[steve-s]

But, should I be doing whites all day (as I am now) and introduce the actinics slowly, or the other way round (ie. actinics all day)? Will the sudden change from mainly whites to mainly actinics over the next few days affect my fish?

Actinics all day and increasing the time the whites are run would be a better option. The fish will not be affected by the switch. If anything the actinics would less stressful.

And, once I've finished the acclimate for my current fish, I'll be doing an acclimate again when I get my corals in a few weeks! Will this not upset my current fish that will already have been through one light acclimate, to do one again?

You do not need to alter the light routine for new arrivals only the existing inhabitants. If unsure of the sensitivity of a new coral, start it off near the bottom and gradually increase the height depending on the needs of the coral and proper water flow as well. In most cases, the lighting the new coral came from will be HO fluors or better and shouldn't be that much a concern.

And, finally re. the pieces of liverock that the corals and polyps (I guess the polyps will come on larger pieces of LR than the individual corals) come on, as long as my LFS says its cured it's ok to put straight in with the coral?

As long as there is no foul odor from the rock it should be just fine in that regard. I have several times purchased a beautiful zoanthud rock only to get them home to find they are in a state of decay from not being handled properly from time of collection. It's quite unmistakable though, you will know immediately if that's the case.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

OK, so if they say it's "cured", and when I open the bag and smell it it doesn't smell bad, I can put straight in.

 

[Shultz]

I thought it was 8 - 10 dkH that was needed?

I'll monitor the alkalinity and pH after I've got my new additions, and add Proper pH (8.2) to my waterchange water if necessary.

If you PM me your email address I'll send you a great article on alk/cal which allows you to see how well your tank is doing & what to do if one or more are low/high....

Cheers Shelton.

 

[steve-s]

OK, so if they say it's "cured", and when I open the bag and smell it it doesn't smell bad, I can put straight in.

Yes!

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

I've just told my LFS I plan to use baserock instead of LR, and he's said he won't supply the corals to me because he doesn't think my tank will be able to sustain the corals we've talked about, certainly if all added at once, with baserock instead of LR, because he has a "responsibility" to ensure the livestock he provides are given the right environment.

What are your views on this??

Either he wants me to spend loads on LR with him (he doesnt do baserock), or I've actually found a LFS that cares...

In The Concientious.. it says that adding more than one coral at once can overload the system/skimming (I dont even have any skimming!)/bacteria etc. because of the amounts of slime each coral can give off after being put into the system. It suggests leaving 2 weeks between coral introductions. Do you agree?

 

[MarkW19]

Also, when the corals have been acclimated over the hour, can I pick them up out of their bags with my bare hands and place them in the tank? ie. is it ok without gloves, and can the corals be out of the water for a few seconds?

And, calcification will bring alkalinity (and calcium) levels down won't it, which may affect pH - do the corals I've chosen calcify a lot or not much, compared to other corals?

 

[MarkW19]

Any ideas on the LR and coral introduction Q's steve?

Since I'm going to QT the LR for a week and test for ammonia etc. (if I do get the LR), the main thing I'm worried about is hitchhikers - pistols/mantis etc.

I'm planning on doing a carbonated SW dip before it's put in my tank after the QT, but I guess it's not 100% certain it'll get them all out, and also could damage the rock as far as bacteria goes etc.? What are your views matey?