Fish in cycle question

[librarygirl]

ph fluctuations are normal during cycling but with fish in the tank you want to keep it as stable as possible. If it starts to drop significantly from what it normally is, do a water change to bring it back up.

Nitrites look like they rose to 5, then fell, then rose, then fell, then fell more, right? If so that's good and normal. You want them at 0; once the cycle completes they'll stay at 0 on their own. It's possible you're close to finishing if they're risen and fallen but keep an eye on them in case they go back up.

You'll always have nitrates in a tank, that's normal and the end product of cycling (your fish put out ammonia, the ammonia bacteria convert it to nitrite, then another bacteria convert it to nitrate). Just keep them under 20.

Ammonia seems like its slowing so that's good too. At first I had a hard time reading the ammonia test; .25 and 0 looked similar. To be sure you can test some distilled or spring water against the tube from the tank; if they match then the tank is really 0.

But the charts don't say when you did a water change; did nitrites drop on their own to 0 without a water change? Is the ammonia rising more slowly without water changes?

 

[jackwagon]

ph fluctuations are normal during cycling but with fish in the tank you want to keep it as stable as possible. If it starts to drop significantly from what it normally is, do a water change to bring it back up.

Nitrites look like they rose to 5, then fell, then rose, then fell, then fell more, right? If so that's good and normal. You want them at 0; once the cycle completes they'll stay at 0 on their own. It's possible you're close to finishing if they're risen and fallen but keep an eye on them in case they go back up.

You'll always have nitrates in a tank, that's normal and the end product of cycling (your fish put out ammonia, the ammonia bacteria convert it to nitrite, then another bacteria convert it to nitrate). Just keep them under 20.

Ammonia seems like its slowing so that's good too. At first I had a hard time reading the ammonia test; .25 and 0 looked similar. To be sure you can test some distilled or spring water against the tube from the tank; if they match then the tank is really 0.

But the charts don't say when you did a water change; did nitrites drop on their own to 0 without a water change? Is the ammonia rising more slowly without water changes?

Nitrates have fallen on their own so that's good and i do have trouble distinguishing the ammonia colors so I'll try that test tonight. The ammonia doesn't rise with water changes so that's good. My question was I tested very little nitrates and nitrites but maybe a little ammonia even though I've tested positive for 20 ppm of nitrates before.

 

[jackwagon]

All tests today are 0 besides about 2 ppm of nitrates so I think im cycled!

 

[BBradbury]

Fish In Cycling

All tests today are 0 besides about 2 ppm of nitrates so I think im cycled!

Hello jack...

You must have several tests of zero "0" ammonia and nitrites, before your tank is cycled. And cycling is only complete when the tank is fully stocked.

So, at this point, provided you've completed several tests with "0" pollutants, you either add a few fish and continue to test the water and do the water changes when necessary or consider your tank stocked as it is and start a sound tank management routine that should include large, weekly water changes and routine filter maintenance.

B

 

[jackwagon]

Ok thanks, that is good to know. I actually went out and bought a bulldog plec and a couple pictus so I'll add the rest of my stock more slowly next time