Fishless Cycle--Done

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I agree. The big problem I'm seeing is a complete disconnect between what is being tested in relation to what we know. Doing a large PWC and not seeing a difference or a very slightly difference in nitrIte just doesn't jive with me. NitrAte is a tricky bugger, because the test is SO DIFFICULT TO EXACTLY REPLICATE. The temperature of the room, the amount the bottle and tubes are shook make a huge difference in final results. These nitrAte results I can understand.

But the nitrIte values baffle me. It's just a simple add a couple drops of each bottle, invert a couple times, and wait a couple minutes. It's brain-dead work. It's extremely reproducible. So I'm stumped on this one.

When I see ammonia go to zero in 24hours and the nitrIte staying the same, I have to believe if the same result is achieved when no ammonia is dosed, the cycle has to be finished (or at least to a satisfactory level for fish addition).

My scientific side wonders if you 2 have a separate strain of bacteria that converts nitrIte to a non-toxic, or otherwise non-nitrIte source that is being measured still as nitrIte. But this just wouldn't make sense because the nitrIte level is staying CONSISTENT. If you were seeing lower nitrIte levels after a PWC, but then the nitrIte's never went down, then I could see some possibility of this.

As it stands, I would do a substrate level PWC, add in your Biospira and add in 1/2 your stocking of fish. Then keep an eye on your ammonia and nitrIte levels. If your ammonia goes above 0.5ppm (it shouldn't), do a PWC, and if your nitrIte goes above 1.5ppm (it also shouldn't but who the @#$# knows!) do a PWC. Monitor the tank for signs of oxygen deficiency (might be a good idea to get an extra air pump or lower the water level for a couple weeks) and if you don't see any gasping at the surface or very fast breathing, you can chalk up the reason to some unknown.

I would really be interested if both of you (OP and neilanh) sent an email to AP telling of your odd stories. You might just find out they already know what's causing the discrepancy. It's certainly worth a shot. And I would request it be added to my FC article so others can be aware this might come up in their own FC.
 
Hey all, thanks for your long replies, I really appreciate you trying to figure out what is up since I cannot do it on my own. I am at school at the moment, and will be checking on my levels when I get home from school. I really do pray that there is a difference, otherwise...I don't know. I'll get back to you. I am completely confused about how doing a 90% water change didn't even dilute it. However...After the water change, the purple didn't pop up right away, it started out looking .5 right off the bat, instead of 1.5. This also happened when I combined the 1 cup tap with 1 cup tank water. Any significance?
 
Marconis said:
Hey all, thanks for your long replies, I really appreciate you trying to figure out what is up since I cannot do it on my own. I am at school at the moment, and will be checking on my levels when I get home from school. I really do pray that there is a difference, otherwise...I don't know. I'll get back to you. I am completely confused about how doing a 90% water change didn't even dilute it. However...After the water change, the purple didn't pop up right away, it started out looking .5 right off the bat, instead of 1.5. This also happened when I combined the 1 cup tap with 1 cup tank water. Any significance?

What is the maximum reading your nitrIte test can detect? I'm not at home to check myself, and its been a LONG time since I checked anything but nitrAte levels. If the max is only 2.0 its possible your maxing out your test and then 10ppm will look just like 2ppm, it will just take slightly longer to reach the endpoint color.

If the max is 4ppm, then again I'm stumped.
 
It's 5ppm

Day 28

Ammo-0
Nitrite- 1.2
Nitrate-Did not test
pH-7.4

Is it my mind playing tricks? I do not know...but, it took at least 15 seconds to see any purple at all, and is a lighter purple than it was yesterday. Could it be working?
 
7 - that's a great idea about emailing API and seeing what they have to say. I will do that this evening, and agree that if we can figure this out that it would be a great thing to add to your article.

As far as the difficulty of reproducing the nitrAte test - I understand what you're saying, but do not believe that's a factor here. I try very hard to be consistent in the way I test. And while I can't control everything (temp esp) I believe I've done a good job and reproducing especially the way I "shake" the bottles. The kicker here is that his nitrAte isn't wavering (nor did mine), it's staying exactly the same, which with the factors you described, shouldn't even be possible to achieve. If he hadn't have done that huge PWC yesterday, I would've been willing to bet that when whatever is happening kicked over, he would overnight start to read well into the 100s in nitrAte (just like mine). Anyway, that's neither here nor there.

Nick - I didn't recall you saying that after the PWC the nitrIte test reacted differently (In that it didn't turn dark purple immediately). That I believe is a very good sign. I'm anxious to hear what your readings are today since you PWCd yesterday as well as added the biospira. I still kinda wish that you would've waited a day on the BioSpira, especially now that I know you got a different reaction during your post-PWC NO2 test. I think if I had caught on to that I would've stressed harder about you waiting on the Biospira. But, todays test could be a very telling factor.

Don't you normally test around this time each day? Hurry up already, I want to know :lol:


EDIT -
You edited your post with the readings while I was typing.. lol

Test your nitrAte please when you have a chance. The change in signature to the NO2 test may mean you'll get a change in the NO3 test IMO.
 
I have been searching for some reason for false positives on Nitrites and found this:

http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=9360&cid=3806&search=

It would seem chlorides in the water can affect test results. I wonder if spring or dittilled water mixed in a 50/50 ratio would give you different redults? Have you tested tap water that has sat overnight? I understand you are getting a 0 reading right from the tap but what if the water sits for a while? Try adding an airstone to the tap water and see what happens. Perhaps the O2 is reacting with something in the water causing false readings. If you can, try to replicate the false positive using these methods to see what the reactive agent might be.

http://www.petsforum.com/aquascience/PDFs/ULTIMATEPDS.PDF

This second one shows more of the science behind how chlorimines affect the tests AND there is some contact information at the end of the article. I bet you can ask these guys and perhaps get a better idea of what's going on. They may also be able to recommend "controllers" to get more accurate results.

Over all, I believe like the others here, you are cycled and are getting false positives. Finding out why is a good idea since you plan on keeping your fish alive :). With the PWC and Biospira you should be able to stock some of your hardier fish and slowly stock the others.


One thing that just occured to me that could be the culprit, what type of media are you using in your filter?
 
I am using the Marineland ones designed for my filter. Are you saying there is chlorine in my water??

**Also, I put new rocks and stuff in last night so there was some movement of sand in the process, but I haven't been able to stir it in 5 weeks because of cycling. Is this bad?? Just curious.

Nitrates- 10 (?)
 
You media should be ok, I was curious if you were using a make-your-own set up.

If you have public water access then chances are you have chlorine in your water. If you are on well water then that's a whole different ball game. They have been deemed a necessary part of public water to keep cooties at bay...but I digress.

Try to get some spring water and do a 50/50 solution (half tank water, half spring water) and see if the results are any different. Also, testing "gassed out" tap water (water that has sat for 5 hours or more) may also give you different readings.
It's possible you have "turned over" with the pwc's and should continue to see a decline in your Nitrites. What has your Nitrate been the last week? If this is higher then you are definately on the tail end.
There are many variables in testing. Temperature, storage, the chemicals you use to treat the water, chemicals the water company had added in the recent past to treat the tap water, methodology of testing, whether you have added flake food or not that day...so many things to consider. The API tests are great way to guesstimate what's going on but only accurate to within 95% on the first three tests: Ammonia, PH, Nitrite. From what I understand, Nitrate can be the least accurate on the kit. Readings under 10ppm can be nearly impossible to detect with any accuracy. See what API has to say and wait it out. Lol!
You should/will see some changes with all the stuff you've done so sit and thrum your fingers, revise your stock list, and ask any more questions you have!:)
I don't believe you messed anything up but stirring up the sand. You bacteria should have a good hold in the sand by now and with new stuff will have more surfaces to hang on to.
 
Sparky, I was considering it, but the guy told me it'd be very dangerous to put fish in a tank with that high of nitrites. Is this true?
 
Yes it is true if they are indeed that high. You know how it goes, everybody has an opinion. Mine is to find the hardiest fish on you list and buy a few of them. Put them in the tank and let nature take it's course. You know that you have a respectable amount of bacteria in your tank. It's likely that you have more than enough to handle the waste from those fish.

This way you get fish and it gives the tank a while to get settled in and hopefully the issue with the nitrites will also go away.

My $.02
 
I can't say I disagree with Sparky.. If it is truly nitrites you're reading then it should have been diluted to 1/2 by simply adding 50% nitrite free water, yet it wasn't. This defies logical reasoning..

If I have 40oz of 40% vodka, and I add 40oz of water, I end up with horrible tasting 20% vodka and a weeks worth of grounding..

There has to be something giving a false reading... something in what you are adding to the tank? Ammonia perhaps has an additive or something.. can't readily explain it, but I really don't think you're reading Nitrite.. 1.5 / 2 does not equal 1.5 It's just simple dilution..
 
I'll send you some money to go get 6 serpaes. They are tough and cheap. I'm sure you can find somebody that will take them when you don't want them any more.
 
I used some Mardel test strips I had from when I first got my tank (didn't know about liquid. This is what it reads.

Nitrate- Looks like what would be 40

Nitrite- Very oddly, between 1 and 2.

Hardness- I don't even know, it is a very dark green

Alkalinity- 50

pH- 6.4, which I beg to differ, because my liquid reads 7.4. Now I wonder which is false?
 
Day 29...CYCLED



Ammo-0
Nitrite-0!!!!!! AND STAYING THAT WAY
Nitrate- 10 (?)
pH-7.6

I am so happy, yet won't be satisfied until tomorrow. This is how I see it "I'm cycled." ORRRR, "Something must've killed off my bacteria or I only added 4 drops of nitrite solution instead of 5".

YES!
 
YAY - It even beat my prediction

It is such a great feeling, isn't it???

Just wait, it's going to be so wierd to have fish in there. lol

And since you just did that big PWC, you shouldn't need to again, especially with your nitrAtes that low. I'd dose 2ppm today, and plan on getting fish tomorrow afternoon.

Congrats Again!
 
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