Fishwrangler's 75gal Salty Adventure

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The results are in! ph is 7.7, salinity is 1.0225(added 3 gal FW so its down from 1.024), and ammonia is 1.5ppm, ammonia was liquid test, salinity was hydrometer, and ph was digital. I want to get the ph up in the 8.2-8.3 range before I add any fish.
Picked up 3 pieces of live rock and a eshopps s-120 skimmer from the lfs. Skimmer is overflowing no matter the setting I try so that's running without the cup to settle in.
The total poundage of live rock is close to 30 pounds with one piece being almost 20 pounds and has some caves in it already.
Lightning is most likely going to be a DIY 4 lamp fluorescent fixture that I build with my dad. For now I have 2 23watt cfls in 13" cone reflectors.

Edit-
Now for pics
Some kind of snail I'm assuming?
No ideas what this is but its cool
More weird but still cool stuff
Left side close up
Right side close up of the big piece from the side
FTS i just moved the rock around thats why its cloudy
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I want to get the ph up in the 8.2-8.3 range before I add any fish.
Picked up 3 pieces of live rock and a eshopps s-120 skimmer from the lfs. Skimmer is overflowing no matter the setting I try so that's running without the cup to settle in.

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many wipe out new skimmers with vinegar to remove mold release agents from manufacturing.
I never have myself .
I added a "throttle" /valve to the air intake on my eshops like this
Amazon.com : Aquarium Fish Tank Air Line Tubing Volume Control Valve Black 5 Pcs : Pet Supplies

Eventually you may not need it or at least have good adjustment.

Do you have the outflow wide open?
 
Yes the outflow is wide open. My sump is packed and the output is an inch from the glass, could that be slowing the flow down?

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Yes the outflow is wide open. My sump is packed and the output is an inch from the glass, could that be slowing the flow down?

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In theory it could be a little but I would have to see it.
Can you move some rock to let out flow have a clearer path?
 
I moved the skimmer so the output is pointed away from the glass. Give me a few minutes for a picture

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new position

How should I move the rock in the tank?
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You should turn it around so "outflow" is away from return pump.
You may even need some kind of mechanical media to block the microbubbles.
Possibly further tweaking of the skimmer can get rid of them,but it is not uncommon to need to block them out if PS is close to pump.
Note also that the performance of the skimmer will possibly be effected by the changing water level from evap or adding water.
Will the skimmer fit closer to the front of sump?
picture of sump?
 
if you plan on keeping corals you should bump the salinity back up 1.024-25 and at higher salinity your skimmer will operate a little more efficiently as well.


but at this stage you won't be pulling much from it anyway.
 
You should turn it around so "outflow" is away from return pump.
You may even need some kind of mechanical media to block the microbubbles.
Possibly further tweaking of the skimmer can get rid of them,but it is not uncommon to need to block them out if PS is close to pump.
Note also that the performance of the skimmer will possibly be effected by the changing water level from evap or adding water.
Will the skimmer fit closer to the front of sump?
picture of sump?

I did end up switching the PS so the output was pointed away from the glass. Its been 24 hours without it overflowing, but I have lots of micro bubbles in the tank now. Think I figured out where they are coming from so some tinkering with that should solve that problem.
I'll take some pictures of my sump asap

if you plan on keeping corals you should bump the salinity back up 1.024-25 and at higher salinity your skimmer will operate a little more efficiently as well.


but at this stage you won't be pulling much from it anyway.

Not planning on keeping any corals, but I do want to keep the salinity around 1.024

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Have you solved the microbubble problem?
Besides the skimmer the return pump can "cavitate/whirlpool" air from the surface if level is close enough to intake.
All my return pumps in my sumps have a 90 degree plumbing elbow to point down and with in 1/2-1/4 inch from bottom of sump on their intakes.
 
The bubbles appear to be coming out of the skimmer where the cord for the pump is, want to wait a few days before I get silicone to seal up the cord hole

Edit-didnt realize the output was completely shut. After I opened it all the way the bubbles are coming out the output, but there are not nearly as many in the tank now

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Tested some levels tonight. Ammonia .25ppm, nitrite 3.5ppm, nitrates 15ppm. Might pick up some more LR this weekend to help things along.
Put in the 300 watt heater to get the temp above 73 degrees, its sitting at 77.4 now

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Hi fish wrangler,

Just found your thread and am popping by to say that I look forward to following your build, this will be fun! :dance:
 
Hi fish wrangler,

Just found your thread and am popping by to say that I look forward to following your build, this will be fun! :dance:

Thanks for following.


To raise my ph I was thinking of just getting a small bag of crushed coral and adding that. Out of the tap my pH is 7.4 *edit*: and the KH was in the 100ppm range last time i tested it.
I know I'm getting an ro unit but ur wife be for a bit i think, and it will be a home depot kinda filter.

Whats everyones opinion on using a Marineland magnum 350 or a sunsun loaded with floss for getting really clear water and some more flow?*end edit*

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Using crushed coral won't raise your ph. In saltwater, our substrate is a good buffer, but your pH will never drop to such a level to where coral will be raising pH any. The key to pH in saltwater is easy, make sure there is good water movement at the water line so there is good CO2 exchange. You won't have any problems.
Never use a product to chase 'the perfect pH'. Doing so always leads to bigger issues down the line.
 
Ok, I'll check the ph tomorrow to see where it stands right now. Isn't 7.7 low for wild caught fish though?

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Perfect pH is 8.4, but 7.7 is just fine. Just sounds like you might need more CO2/oxygen exchange. If there is a cover on the tank you can remove it as well.
Just wait until winter months. With the house all closed up and the heater running, that will have an increased amount of CO2 in the house itself and lead to lower pH in the tank.
With all that said, there is a limit to how low pH can go in saltwater due to the sand/crushed coral that are used in them. I want to say it is 7.4, but don't quote me on that.
 
The problem with taking the glass tops off is that the light I'm building doesn't have a lens on the tank side. The salt would be bad for components.

Edit- tested pH and its up to 8.3. I do remember that in my freshwater tanks the ph spiked to 8.2 during the cycle, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing.
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