Hi,
Just offering my two bits. I used to sell fish and I understand the frustration a new aquarist can have when told that he/she has to wait 1-2 months before seeing fish in the tank. Unfortunately, it is this frustration that usually results in failure. The new aquarist may not listen to this sort of advice and then begin buying fish after a week or two. The nitrogen compounds spike and the result is dead fish. I know it is hard, but the first rule of successful aquarium husbandry is patience. (The second, I think, is water changes, Lol.)
As to myself, I am rather impatient. Consequently, I use a modified fishless/silent cycle to help speed up the process and occupy my time. Instead of just adding an ammonia source and waiting, I complete my startup in phases:
Weeks 1 & 2: Get the system up and running, add food every day just as if the tank had fish in it. Adding the food on a normal schedule means that the tank will be ready for the amount of food you use when the time comes. It also helps build a habit that will continue for the lifespan of the aquarium.
During the first two weeks, the tank lights are kept off and the aquarium is covered if possible. This helps prevent algae blooms (which can be majorly annoying) since it prevents algae from growing by blocking light. Meanwhile, the bacteria start to grow and use the food that would have otherwise been divided between the bacteria and algae.
It is also important to note that the aquarium should be decorated with semi-porous substance that are not more than 4 inches thick (10 cm). Lava rock and natural driftwood (not the fake petshop stuff, though some reputable dealers do carry the real stuff) work well for this. Another alternative is to use aquarium silicone to attach inert sponges to the bottom of slate slabs (let cure for 24 hours before placing in aquarium). These substances will encourage bacterial growth and make the system less dependent on the filter media (this way, the system will not be too disturbed when it is time to change the filter media).
50% Water Change
Week 3: Buy some hardy, fast-growing plants (hornwort seems to work for many aquarium systems) and plant them in the aquarium. Not just one or two, enough to really decorate the aquarium with. After the plants are in place, get into the habit of turning on the lights for 12-16 hours every day in addition to feeding regularly. If you are worried that your lights are not bright enough to support plant growth, leave most of the plants floating or simply add some more lights.
25% Water Change
Week 4: Test the water parameters. Many pet shops will test the water for free, but make sure they give you the
results in numbers (not just "it's fine"). The
ammonia and nitrite should be 0 and the nitrate can be as high as 40ppm without being seriously harmful. If the parameters check out, then it is time to add some fish. Make sure to put the most aggressive fish in the tank last and do some planning to make sure your fish will get along. (Hint: You have 4 weeks to research possible fish
.)
Do 25% water changes every week unless your nitrates are very low (below 20ppm). If your nitrates are very low, then you can afford to wait longer between water changes. (Hint: Gravel siphons are very effective ways to both remove water and rid the tank of waste debris.)
One last note: Unless you are opting for a true brackish water aquarium
the shells are not a good idea. Seashells are basically made of the same stuff that limestone is and both can wreak havoc on freshwater chemistry. Fake shells are much better (one of the few places I would not advise using the natural substance in any form).
MOA