Help with ph!

[Delapool]

Well I did as suggested by hjsvt and changed the water. Got the ph up somewhere between 6.8 and 7. Turned off lights and dosed excel. This was at about 4:30 pm yesterday afternoon. I just tested the water again at 7:30 am this morning and ph is back at 6.

Any other ideas? I'm going to do the Flourite test as well but was told to use DI water. I'm working on finding that.

Also, I have changed the water every day for 3 days ( 35%). Should I try larger water changes everyday? I'm about to give in and just get some ph buffer. lol


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

On the off chance you do get a commercial buffer then check what is in it. The second question in link below to seachem has info on phosphate and non-phosphate based buffer products.

I've never managed to get an algae problem with high phosphates but it does cause possibly an iron phosphate problem for me with plants. This was despite the product saying it was plant safe. One weekend I dosed the buffer to the suggested amount and over the next few weeks steadily lost every plant.

A phosphate based buffer would hold the ph but your cycle could still run into problems if no kh present. So kh test kit needed.

You could lift to 50% pwc but I think we need to know what starting kh is.


Reading back, it looked like ph was good until two weeks ago?

http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/AcidBuffer.html

 

[uncgirl1]

On the off chance you do get a commercial buffer then check what is in it. The second question in link below to seachem has info on phosphate and non-phosphate based buffer products.

I've never managed to get an algae problem with high phosphates but it does cause possibly an iron phosphate problem for me with plants. This was despite the product saying it was plant safe. One weekend I dosed the buffer to the suggested amount and over the next few weeks steadily lost every plant.

A phosphate based buffer would hold the ph but your cycle could still run into problems if no kh present. So kh test kit needed.

You could lift to 50% pwc but I think we need to know what starting kh is.


Reading back, it looked like ph was good until two weeks ago?



Seachem. Acid Buffer FAQ

The starting kh, etc is back in previous posts of this thread. I have ordered a new test kit since there is possibility that the kit I currently have may be damaged and not working properly. I really don't want to add any buffers at all and am going to keep digging. However, if I have to then I have to. I'm not sure if this was a problem before. When I had the tank running before, I didn't test kh or gh ever. Ph only randomly and don't remember it being an issue. This go around, I am trying to be more educated. That being said, tank ph was ok 2 weeks ago. But my fishless cycle had just completed and therefore ph could have been inaccurate from my understanding. I realized this problem because I noticed my nitrates were low. Once I started investigating, it led to this thread.

I've always been a little curious about the flourite to be honest. Mixed reports online and seachem know it would damage sales if it alters certain waters ph levels. I'd like to see the new test kits readings though first.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Caliban, I too am curious now about Flourite. I have a new kh/gh test kit coming today from Amazon. I also ordered the API Pond Test Ph kit as that tests a much broader range of ph. It will be interesting to see what that says today. I plan to do the tests with the new kits before I make any additional changes. I am hoping that the new tests will show something different and at least provide some answers. I will post once I have the readings.

 

[uncgirl1]

I got my new test kits and have completed the tests. I got a wide range ph test made for ponds and the ph shows as 5. That's not good. The ph in my qt tank is 7.

With my new kh test, my tank water is 2 kh and 4 gh. My qt tank is 6 kh and 4 gh. I don't have any tap water that has been out for a while except for where I put my driftwood in a bucket. The ph in that is 7 and 7 kh and 2 gh. So there is definitely a problem with the ph and kh in my main tank. The test kit I had before was obviously faulty. I have water sitting out for testing my tap water tomorrow.

I have no idea what to do now. I'm working on the Flourite test and have removed half of the plants that were in the tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Caliban07]

Ok keep us posted. Any chance you could fill the bottom of the driftwood bucket with fluorite and monitor it?

What is the fluoriite test anyways?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[uncgirl1]

Ok keep us posted. Any chance you could fill the bottom of the driftwood bucket with fluorite and monitor it?

What is the fluoriite test anyways?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Fresh2o gave me a suggestion on how to test Flourite. I have 4 cups filled with Flourite plus tap water, Flourite plus distilled water, tap water and distilled water. So I did 4 ph tests on the cups containing each different specimen. In 24 hours I will check them again and see if the ph dropped any in the cups with just water and the in the cups with the Flourite plus each water. I was told to use DI water but I can't find any and it seems distilled water is at least similar. If there is a ph drop in the cups with Flourite and not in the cups with just water then clearly the Flourite is affecting ph.

Something must also be affecting the kh as it is very low in the main tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Delapool]

Keen to find out results. Best I could find was fluorite may be an issue early on for a few months but I'm kind of stuck on that. I could understand it soaking up a bit of gh but any carbonates absorbed, I would of thought would be released as well. Especially at that ph.

Edit - actually I still favour bacterial activity as the cause. Not game to put money on though.

 

[uncgirl1]

Keen to find out results. Best I could find was fluorite may be an issue early on for a few months but I'm kind of stuck on that. I could understand it soaking up a bit of gh but any carbonates absorbed, I would of thought would be released as well. Especially at that ph.

Edit - actually I still favour bacterial activity as the cause. Not game to put money on though.

I'm probably going to feel rather stupid once I hear the answer to this but what do you mean when you say bacterial activity?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Fresh2o]

I'm probably going to feel rather stupid once I hear the answer to this but what do you mean when you say bacterial activity?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Nah, don't. I believe he is referring to nitrification as an acidity producing process. Which reinforces the importance of water changes.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Delapool]

Hi, sorry - gets hard to type on train.

Yes, nitryfying bacteria will chew kh up.


1 ppmammonia --> 2.7 ppmnitrite --> 3.6 ppmnitrate.

For every gram ofammonia oxidised into nitrate 4.8 grams of oxygen is used, 7.14 grams ofcalcium carbonate is used

Edit - grr, and now the work desktop is locking up the website.

I was thinking of your bacterial bloom as well though.

I'm not suggesting breaking the tests off or anything, just looking at other possibilities.

 

[doctordamen]

Will adding a little bag of crushed coral help? It might be time for that...


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[uncgirl1]

I tested all the cups with the water and Flourite this morning. 13 hours later and the ph matches in all cups. The tap water went down as expected but to 7.5 by itself and with Flourite. The distilled water went down to 6 but did the same in the cup with the Flourite. I will test them again once I get home from work this evening.

The ph drops overnight in my tank to below 6 even when it's raised to 6.8 or 7 with water change so it doesn't look like Flourite is the cause but I will double check once they've been sitting for 24 hours.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Fresh2o]

I tested all the cups with the water and Flourite this morning. 13 hours later and the ph matches in all cups. The tap water went down as expected but to 7.5 by itself and with Flourite. The distilled water went down to 6 but did the same in the cup with the Flourite. I will test them again once I get home from work this evening.

The ph drops overnight in my tank so it doesn't look like Flourite is the cause but I will double check once they've been sitting for 24 hours.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

I'm confused ? When you say "the pH matches in all the cups", do you mean that the pair with distilled water match each other and the pair with the tap water match each other?
It would make sense for the distilled water + flourite to drop as no buffers should be present. But for the distilled water by itself to drop pH? That part I don't get. I got a "C" in general chemistry so I will start moon walking out of out this thread...?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[uncgirl1]

I'm confused ? When you say "the pH matches in all the cups", do you mean that the pair with distilled water match each other and the pair with the tap water match each other?
It would make sense for the distilled water + flourite to drop as no buffers should be present. But for the distilled water by itself to drop pH? That part I don't get. I got a "C" in general chemistry so I will start moon walking out of out this thread...?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Yes, I meant the pairs match. Sorry for the confusion. I actually took quite a bit of chemistry many (many) years ago and I certainly don't use that knowledge a lot. But the results clearly show that it did. I have a guess though.

I am guessing that since distilled water has no buffers that once it is exposed to air it will absorb carbon dioxide to form carbonic acid and therefore the ph would drop. So, leaving distilled water overnight would change the ph. I think. lol

Where is hjsvt?? They would know for sure.
Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[uncgirl1]

In regards to above post, kind of what is happening in my tank. Since it is not the driftwood or the substrate. I don't think the plants are having that much of an effect through photosynthesis as that experiment didn't keep the ph up. Since my water only has a kh of 3 and in the tank it's 1, I can only assume that the above is exactly what is happening. I'm sure it's some combination of many things that result in the kh being eaten away and therefore the drop in ph.

So that means buffers need to be added. From my research, I don't think crushed coral will do the job properly. Baking soda may do it but I have no experience with that and am afraid to suffocate the poor fish.

I don't really understand how the nitrifying bacteria could do it but I'm going to research that today and see if I can find a solution there. Unless someone here has one?

Anybody have an opinion either way?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Delapool]

In regards to above post, kind of what is happening in my tank. Since it is not the driftwood or the substrate. I don't think the plants are having that much of an effect through photosynthesis as that experiment didn't keep the ph up. Since my water only has a kh of 3 and in the tank it's 1, I can only assume that the above is exactly what is happening. I'm sure it's some combination of many things that result in the kh being eaten away and therefore the drop in ph.

So that means buffers need to be added. From my research, I don't think crushed coral will do the job properly. Baking soda may do it but I have no experience with that and am afraid to suffocate the poor fish.

I don't really understand how the nitrifying bacteria could do it but I'm going to research that today and see if I can find a solution there. Unless someone here has one?

Anybody have an opinion either way?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

My guess is it is heterotrophic bacteria as well as autotrophic nitrifying bacteria. From the oscar fish article:

'Heterotrophic bacteria can divide every 20 minutes, compared to every 12-20 hours for autotrophic bacteria.'

Nitrifying bacteria predominantly live on surfaces whereas hetero bacteria can be in the water column as well (bacterial bloom). Think of if the tank was divided into levels which were a fraction of an inch high and it was stacked with hetero bacteria. A theory anyways.


Crushed coral (calcium carbonate) should go in the tank as a long term, natural buffer. I find it doesn't do much above a ph of 7 but for your tank it would be ideal. You could try a mesh bag of it tied below the filter outlet. Others add to the filter media. I just add to substrate. It's slower acting but very natural and you pretty much know exactly what is in it.

Baking soda will definitely work. The problem is it can work too well and a little goes a long way. You just have to dial it in and experiment in a bucket of tank water first. I don't have dosage on the phone but others will know.

Phosphate buffers I don't think are right for your tank as they will fix ph but not kh. So your plants and bacteria will suffer.

 

[hjsvt]

I'm back to the conversation. Sick kids and my own tank issues the last two days have kept me really busy.

So it sounds like it's been narrowed to the depletion of the KH by something (bacteria or plants or both). I'm glad you tested the substrate too because I think that's what I'm dealing with in my tank but with pH rising. I will have to read up on the heterotrophic bacteria, what their biological process is and how that process effects the pH. What was posted above makes sense to me, regarding the faster reproduction of the bacteria equaling faster depletion of the KH. One question I still have though is the difference in the quarantine tank and the big tank. I think I asked before but I can't seem to find the answer? The quarantine tank appears to be fine but not the big tank? Is the substrate the same? Do you think there is the same bacteria bloom in the quarantine tank? Maybe not because the pH is staying constant and the KH is not changing. Are there plants in the quarantine tank? I just trying to think about a control in your situation and then the differences in the main tank.

As far as what to add to you tank. I would consider using both the Seachem Acid/Alkaine buffers and the crushed coral. The coral will help you slowly and steadily maintain your tank and the buffers will get you KH up there to start with. I would also consider using Seachem Replenish to increase you GH which is great for your fish. There are probably other products out there but these Seachem buffers do not contain any phosphates. Also if you have the pH you want, you use them both in together to keep the pH the same but increase the buffers. You will probably have to do some testing on a small scale with your water to determine how much you need of both achieve the desired results.

I appreciate you taking the time to do the test I suggested. Probably a better test would have been to increase the KH and the pH and dose with Flourish Excel before we did the photosynthesis test. But I think the bacteria seem a more the more likely faster KH remover than the plants. But I'm glad you did it anyway, even a negative test gives us information about the problem.

Can I ask about your pond pH test kit? Is it one test with a range of pH 5.0-9.0 or is it two tests like the master kit? My 1:1 well to RO water combination is reading 7.6 on the regular pH scale and 7.4 on the high range. So I'm assuming it somewhere in between but would love to have a test that measured 5.0-9.0 with one reagent. I might just order one anyway. I was thinking of a pH meter but then you have to have standards and calibrate it every time.

Also, I wanted to comment on the API test kits. So I went to my lfs Sunday and had them test my water. Our pH readings were identical but they said 0.25 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 0 nitrates. I KNOW there were nitrates in that sample because I had just finished my cycle. My readings were 0 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrites and 10-20 ppm nitrate. So I guess the point I was trying to make is I just don't know how reliable it is to compare results from difference test kits. The next time I go there, I'm going to bring a water sample AND my own test kit and ask to do them side by side.

So I have the exact opposite going on in my tank. I had a pH of 8 after my cycle completed and about 50% water change. I thought this pH increase was a result of adding the ammonia. LFS recommended 7.0-7.2 because that's what the fish I purchased were used to. I used the Seachem Acid buffer to lower it and it worked great but the next morning it was right back up there. So added some more buffer but it went back up again. I didn't think that was supposed to happen with the buffer or so I thought. And now I was chasing pH which is bad and not at all what I wanted to be doing. So I figured something in my tank was making it go up. Did a 50% water change, added a little bit of peat, removed some rocks, next day pH is up, next day (today) pH is up to 8.2! The rocks were my first guess but I did do the vinegar test on all before soaking and adding to the thank. Most of the rocks are out now, did the vinegar test on all of them again. No bubbling. So that leaves the substrate. I used Flora-max and a little bit of Eco-complete. I did some reading before buying it and it got great reviews, didn't read anything about a pH issue, didn't know to specifically search for that. Now I have and I have found many threads with people testing it and seeing a pH increase. So I set my own test up this morning. I have 6 pints jars, 2 that have eco-complete from a new bag, 2 that have Flora-max/eco complete mix from the tank, 2 have nothing. Three jars have 1:1 Well:RO water and three jars have RO water. All substrate and water weighted out to be exact in all cases and water temperature adjusted to the same within 0.5 degrees F. The temp will decrease over time because there are no heaters in the jars. But they started the same and will adjust the same with room temperature. Also I capped all 6 jars to keep that variable constant. The starting pH on my 1:1 mix was 7.4 and the starting pH on the RO water was 6.8-7.0 (hard to tell the difference between) So I'll let you know how this goes and if it might have any relation to your own tank problems. Maybe we should just mix our tanks 1:1 and we'd both have something that works!

So I have added some photos. I took some photos of what my GH and KH tests look like with tank water and Distilled water so you could see. Also uploaded a picture of the substrate test I set up this morning. So very very glad I listened to the lfs and held off on the dwarf gouramis and the cherry shrimp now that I'm also dealing with tank issues. My fish seem fine though. I have stopped trying to adjust pH with buffer. I have added more peat though to hopefully keep the pH from drifting higher.

With all that's gone on with my own tank, I can certainly understand why beginners give up. This has been way way more than I ever anticipated but I am committed. However, I would still love to see the #1 beginner article be about water.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should be looking at for substrate if it turns out the Flora-max/Eco-complete increase the pH of my water? I'm just aiming for a low tech tank with easy growing plants. I currently have 1 large mother amazon sword with several runners and babies, 3 java ferns, 2 moss balls, some micro swords, 2 anubias hastifolia, 4 banana plants, 3dwarf sagittaria. Everything has new growth except the java ferns and moss balls but they both look great. I have a 29 gallon tank with a Finnex Stingray lamp that I'm running from 7-11:30 and 4-9 daily.

I hope we can both figure out our tank issues and move one to happy fish owners!

 

[uncgirl1]

I'm back to the conversation. Sick kids and my own tank issues the last two days have kept me really busy.

So it sounds like it's been narrowed to the depletion of the KH by something (bacteria or plants or both). I'm glad you tested the substrate too because I think that's what I'm dealing with in my tank but with pH rising. I will have to read up on the heterotrophic bacteria, what their biological process is and how that process effects the pH. What was posted above makes sense to me, regarding the faster reproduction of the bacteria equaling faster depletion of the KH. One question I still have though is the difference in the quarantine tank and the big tank. I think I asked before but I can't seem to find the answer? The quarantine tank appears to be fine but not the big tank? Is the substrate the same? Do you think there is the same bacteria bloom in the quarantine tank? Maybe not because the pH is staying constant and the KH is not changing. Are there plants in the quarantine tank? I just trying to think about a control in your situation and then the differences in the main tank.

As far as what to add to you tank. I would consider using both the Seachem Acid/Alkaine buffers and the crushed coral. The coral will help you slowly and steadily maintain your tank and the buffers will get you KH up there to start with. I would also consider using Seachem Replenish to increase you GH which is great for your fish. There are probably other products out there but these Seachem buffers do not contain any phosphates. Also if you have the pH you want, you use them both in together to keep the pH the same but increase the buffers. You will probably have to do some testing on a small scale with your water to determine how much you need of both achieve the desired results.

I appreciate you taking the time to do the test I suggested. Probably a better test would have been to increase the KH and the pH and dose with Flourish Excel before we did the photosynthesis test. But I think the bacteria seem a more the more likely faster KH remover than the plants. But I'm glad you did it anyway, even a negative test gives us information about the problem.

Can I ask about your pond pH test kit? Is it one test with a range of pH 5.0-9.0 or is it two tests like the master kit? My 1:1 well to RO water combination is reading 7.6 on the regular pH scale and 7.4 on the high range. So I'm assuming it somewhere in between but would love to have a test that measured 5.0-9.0 with one reagent. I might just order one anyway. I was thinking of a pH meter but then you have to have standards and calibrate it every time.

Also, I wanted to comment on the API test kits. So I went to my lfs Sunday and had them test my water. Our pH readings were identical but they said 0.25 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 0 nitrates. I KNOW there were nitrates in that sample because I had just finished my cycle. My readings were 0 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrites and 10-20 ppm nitrate. So I guess the point I was trying to make is I just don't know how reliable it is to compare results from difference test kits. The next time I go there, I'm going to bring a water sample AND my own test kit and ask to do them side by side.

So I have the exact opposite going on in my tank. I had a pH of 8 after my cycle completed and about 50% water change. I thought this pH increase was a result of adding the ammonia. LFS recommended 7.0-7.2 because that's what the fish I purchased were used to. I used the Seachem Acid buffer to lower it and it worked great but the next morning it was right back up there. So added some more buffer but it went back up again. I didn't think that was supposed to happen with the buffer or so I thought. And now I was chasing pH which is bad and not at all what I wanted to be doing. So I figured something in my tank was making it go up. Did a 50% water change, added a little bit of peat, removed some rocks, next day pH is up, next day (today) pH is up to 8.2! The rocks were my first guess but I did do the vinegar test on all before soaking and adding to the thank. Most of the rocks are out now, did the vinegar test on all of them again. No bubbling. So that leaves the substrate. I used Flora-max and a little bit of Eco-complete. I did some reading before buying it and it got great reviews, didn't read anything about a pH issue, didn't know to specifically search for that. Now I have and I have found many threads with people testing it and seeing a pH increase. So I set my own test up this morning. I have 6 pints jars, 2 that have eco-complete from a new bag, 2 that have Flora-max/eco complete mix from the tank, 2 have nothing. Three jars have 1:1 Well:RO water and three jars have RO water. All substrate and water weighted out to be exact in all cases and water temperature adjusted to the same within 0.5 degrees F. The temp will decrease over time because there are no heaters in the jars. But they started the same and will adjust the same with room temperature. Also I capped all 6 jars to keep that variable constant. The starting pH on my 1:1 mix was 7.4 and the starting pH on the RO water was 6.8-7.0 (hard to tell the difference between) So I'll let you know how this goes and if it might have any relation to your own tank problems. Maybe we should just mix our tanks 1:1 and we'd both have something that works!

So I have added some photos. I took some photos of what my GH and KH tests look like with tank water and Distilled water so you could see. Also uploaded a picture of the substrate test I set up this morning. So very very glad I listened to the lfs and held off on the dwarf gouramis and the cherry shrimp now that I'm also dealing with tank issues. My fish seem fine though. I have stopped trying to adjust pH with buffer. I have added more peat though to hopefully keep the pH from drifting higher.

With all that's gone on with my own tank, I can certainly understand why beginners give up. This has been way way more than I ever anticipated but I am committed. However, I would still love to see the #1 beginner article be about water.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should be looking at for substrate if it turns out the Flora-max/Eco-complete increase the pH of my water? I'm just aiming for a low tech tank with easy growing plants. I currently have 1 large mother amazon sword with several runners and babies, 3 java ferns, 2 moss balls, some micro swords, 2 anubias hastifolia, 4 banana plants, 3dwarf sagittaria. Everything has new growth except the java ferns and moss balls but they both look great. I have a 29 gallon tank with a Finnex Stingray lamp that I'm running from 7-11:30 and 4-9 daily.

I hope we can both figure out our tank issues and move one to happy fish owners!

I'm glad your back! I love reading your posts and I always appreciate the help. I hope your kiddos are feeling better!

The pond test kit is one reagent so you would love it. I found it here:
http://www.amazon.com/API-Pondcare-...UTF8&qid=1425914938&sr=1-25&keywords=api+test

Thanks for adding the photos. I'm a very visual person. I think I was trying to make the colors to much of the right color. If that makes sense. I did some online searching and discovered that the right number of drops was when the color changed period. And I got a new kit that actually seem to give me the right answers as they seem to be working properly. I am gauging this as the original test kit never turned any shade except for the one I was looking for. No blues or oranges at all. Just clear. Anyway....

As I reading your post, I was thinking the same thing! If we combined our water, we would have no problems. Too bad it's not that easy. I am going out in just a little bit to get crushed coral. Then I will add to tank tonight. I've been googling to try to find out how much to add. I wouldn't want to use the Seachem Acid buffer as that lowers ph, correct? I need the Alkaline buffer? I'm going to look for that as well but doubtful I can find it. Probably will need to order it.

I'll be interested to see your results as well. When I was searching for answers on flourite, I did come across some posts about eco-complete raising ph. A quick google search of "eco complete raise ph" will show you more of what I am talking about. Of course, it could be wrong. Or the people who are having issues have more than one issue, like me.

 

[hjsvt]

My pond pH test kit is on order along with a test tube rack and more test tubes. I keep dropping them and breaking them!

On the adding buffers, if you want to change your pH you would add one of the buffers, Acidic buffer for down and Alkaline buffer for up. However, you want to maintain you pH and simply add KH to your water. You would add both buffers in the ratio recommended to start with. Here is the link to the directions on the Seachem website. Seachem. Alkaline Buffer The recommended ratios for maintaining a certain pH are listed for DI/RO water. Since your water has some buffering you would have to experiment to determine the ratio you need. I have two big jars and I probably won't be using much of them. I purchased them when I wasn't sure if I could mix in my unsoftened well water with my RO water. Do you want me to send you a couple of baggies of each by priority mail so you can play around and see what you think before you buy it? Just let me know, pm me if you want. It won't be a big deal and I have plenty that I'm probably not using anytime soon!

Oh and I think I messed up on the distilled water photo in the last post. I think I have the GH and KH mixed up. The colors are so light with only one drop it's hard to keep them straight. My point being with softer water, I think the results are more subjective with less drops because a color change is harder to see. Just a thought.

I have uploaded a couple more pictures. I just ran my first test on my little experiment. It's only been 4 hours but I'm impatient. And so far it's exactly as I expected but the change is small enough for the limits of the test I'm not going to consider it significant yet. Basically #6 and #5 are my controls, just water and no substrate. #6 is 100% RO water and with no buffers I would expect a pH change to happen quicker with this water. #2 is Eco-complete fresh out of the bag 100% RO water and #4 is material out of my tank Flora-Max/Eco-complete mixed and 100% RO water. Since the tank substrate has been in water for 3+ weeks, I would expect the pH change to be less than the fresh material. #5 is control (ie no substrate) for 1:1 Well:RO water, #1 is fresh Eco-complete with 1:1 water, #3 is material from the tank with 1:1 water. I would expect the pH rise to be slower in the mixed water because of the buffering but the tank water is changing quickly so the substrate must be pretty strong.

I'll post more tomorrow. Wish I had the pond test kit tomorrow!

 

[uncgirl1]

Hjsvt- Interesting stuff! Crazy how we have the same problem just on opposite ends of the spectrum. I'll look forward to find out what the ultimate results are. I'm glad you got the pond ph test kit. I'm enjoying mine! The only real drawback is that it lists in whole numbers or .5 the higher you go on the scale but it's still better than using 2 reagents.

I bought some crushed coral today to add to my filter. Does anybody know how much to add? Or is it just trial and error?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Delapool]

You get best effect in filter (because in good water flow spot). Most people do this and I'd suggest that long term.

The mesh bag tied under filter flow outlet would be just temporary so you could take out readily eg for adding more crushed coral or anything else. Also you won't be disturbing filters as much.

I have canister filters in a cupboard though so I hate taking them apart as they are diabolical to get in and out.

From memory try a handful and see how that goes. It all depends on how fine the crushed coral is (as increasing surface area for reaction) so that's why I prefer a mesh bag. You can monitor and add more / take bag out until tank settles.

Also water supplies can change by the season so unfortunately you have to keep monitoring tap water.

In mine, I'm still staring at some shells that have lasted months while others are full of holes now. But stable tank ph though.