Hyposalinity in Display Tank

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TheTodd

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To cut a long story short, it looks like I've got Ich in my 240g FOWLR. Some of the fish I inherited over the holidays have spots. They are all eating fine and it does not look bad , but I am worried about future additions having issues.

My dilemma now is this...I can't possibly QT a large Desjardini Tang, large Engineer Goby, good sized Huma Huma, a Porcupine Puffer and a Valentini Puffer between my 45g, 30g and 15g. I think that the stress will do more bad than good. I know the general rule is "don't treat in your DT", but in a case like this, I am considering hypo in the DT as the least stressful option.

I've read several stories on various forums where people have done this successfully with no bad effects after salinity was brought back to normal. I've read various stories from hypo killing all BB to it simply slowing it down into a less effective state.

One minute I think I will just feed well and hope they will overcome this, but the next, I worry about expensive future additions having issues. Any feedback and/or suggestions are appreciated.
 
It can be done but it will be a ton of water changes. Beneficial bacteria will not die so don't worry about that. If it does anything it will slow down or go dormant which is easily remedied by a water change with fresh saltwater at 1.008 of course . In all the times I have done hypo the bacteria never slowed for me. For example 2 years ago I tried in the 180 and the new additions I have in qt is actually my 40 that I turned into a hypo tank by just doing fresh water changes . No issues with beneficial bacteria there also .
 
I guess that is what I am not 100% clear on. I know in regular QT, I have done water changes, but that was due to ammonia and nitrite levels, even with seeded sponges from the DT. In this case, the bio in the 240g is in there between tank and sump, which I assume is much more than I've ever had with a barren QT. I think the larger scale is what has me worried. :) How often do you think I'd be doing changes with the messy eaters?
 
Just maintain your normal water change schedule . If you do find the ammo rising / bacteria slowing do one then ( I doubt it is going to happen) . If nothing happens to the bb within a few days to a week you are in the clear. If it is going to happen it will happen then .
As far as feeding I would recommend feeding a bit less. In hypo there is less osmotic pressure on the outside of the fish . It let's them breathe easier and burn less energy which in turn will make them eat a bit less.
 
Sounds like a solid plan. I'm going to give this a shot and will keep this thread updated as things progress...
 
Is there a good calculator for dropping salinity? I did a 40g swap (tank water out and fresh water in) and it dropped from .023 to .020. I'm trying to figure out how many more before I start to get close to .008. The Tang is getting covered more and actually has some black spots down low when he is pale. He just started coming out so I can get good looks. I am wondering if those could be stings from apatasia, as the tank they came out of was infested with some huge ones. The Porcupine puffer has spots on it fins and tail today for the first time and the Trigger does not show spots anymore, but flashes from time to time. I saw the whole Engineer Goby today and it has a few spots. The Valentini puffer looks clear so far. I guess the good news is that nobody is breathing rapidly and all are eating great.


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Hate to tell you but you have about another 160 gallons to go . That is the downside on doing this on a large tank.
 
Watch for rapid breathing, the fish can tolerate a few parasites on their bodies, but when they infect the gills, death follows close behind.
 
Watch for rapid breathing, the fish can tolerate a few parasites on their bodies, but when they infect the gills, death follows close behind.

I am watching them. So far so good. I've dealt with Ich and other ailments over the years. This feels different because it is being done in the DT (which I never do) and it is on such a large scale. I know the treatment is the same though.

I got about 100 more gallons of freshwater added between last night and this morning before going to work. I will see where salinity is at this afternoon when I get home and it will be down to .008 by bedtime tonight.
 
They are all eating fine. I have seen no scientific evidence that garlic boosts immunity. I feel it acts as a supplement to entice them to eat. If they weren't eating, I probably would use it though . I think the seaweed/ algae sheets I feed the Tang with have it.
 
As an update...so far, so good. The Huma Huma had spots, went a couple days totally clear, but now has something going on with it's skin. Almost looks flakey on spots... Kinda like after you get a sunburn and your skin peels. I'm hoping that is just it's slime coat rebuilding. The Desjardini Tang looked bad for a couple days. Had some big white spots all over its body. Larger than any I have ever sen. Those are off now, but you can see where some were. The Porcupine Puffer is now taking his turn with spots. He 's covered, but is still breathing fine and eats like a pig. The Valentini Puffer has shown no signs of anything. The Engineer Goby...I have no idea. I see his head way back in a cave, so it is impossible to tell. I think once the others are cleared up, I will try to get him out in the open to take a look.

Parameters are doing okay. Zero ammonia and nitrites and nitrates are about 20-40. I plan to do a water change this weekend. The only thing that kinda worries me is that my skimmer is not skimming much now. My water levels are a little higher (about an inch ) in the sump, after adding a little too much water this weekend, so I am wondering if that is it or the lower salinity. I figure by mid-week, evaporation will bring it back down.
 
Glad things are going well. Your skimmer production will be minimal while in hypo. So don't really worry about that .

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Go figure...this morning, everything is looking good with all the fish. One possible spot on the trigger (might just be a flake of skin from the prior spots). The Valentini Puffer looked a little bloated, but I fed last night and I figured he just ate a lot. He was the one that never showed any signs of Ich. Today I come home from work and the puffer is dead. The others all look great. There was a red area on it's belly and I'm wondering if either the trigger or Porcupine puffer got him. I've seen no signs of aggression though. :(
 
To add to the mystery , I wake up this morning and my Porcupine Puffer is puffed up, but not moving around. Breathing seems normal (not rapid), but he is twitching and there seems to be a few spots where I can see stringy/slimy strands coming off of him. I'm not sure if that is just from the body expanding, but the twitching does not look good and it has not moved all morning. It is not as puffed now, but it has been puffed since at least 5:30am.

The Picaso and Desjardinni look perfectly fine.

Does anyone know if hypo is more difficult on Puffers? It seems odd that both Puffers are having issues within days of one another, whole the other fish seem fine and are doing great.

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No issues when my porc went through hypo . Nothing with the Toby either besides his mishap with the other fish .

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Yeah...I had not heard they had issues, but it seems strange that the puffers are both doing bad around the same time. The Porc was the last of the fish to get spots, be he looked pretty good the last couple days and ate fine on TH. I guess time will tell...

Off to buy salt...it's PWC day...
 
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