metro for columnaris

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I've never tried Metro, but Furan-2 + Kanaplex saved my tank from columnaris a few months ago with minimal casualties.

I've read that it's a gram negative bacteria (I don't know what this means, just what I've read) and so some medications don't work on it. Not sure about Metro though.
 
I've never tried Metro, but Furan-2 + Kanaplex saved my tank from columnaris a few months ago with minimal casualties.

I've read that it's a gram negative bacteria (I don't know what this means, just what I've read) and so some medications don't work on it. Not sure about Metro though.

Ordered both of those and paid an absolute fortune for them being as theyre illegal here in the UK so had to import them but if they work.. money WELL spent. Stupid UK laws.

Know of anyways to slow it down? Im lowering the temperature tomorrow, Im treating with myxazin and salt at the moment
 
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Columnaris is a gram negative bacterial infection. Metro's antibiotic capabilities are gram positive. Kanamycin's effectiveness against columnaris is due to it beings strong gram negative antibiotic. It has an even greater broad spectrum treatment abilities when combined with a fura antibiotic.
 
Ordered both of those and paid an absolute fortune for them being as theyre illegal here in the UK so had to import them but if they work.. money WELL spent. Stupid UK laws.

Know of anyways to slow it down? Im lowering the temperature tomorrow, Im treating with myxazin and salt at the moment

Your taking the right steps for now! Gradually take the temp down to @70 if possible. If your fish are tolerant of salt, increase it .1% salinity gradually as well.
 
Your taking the right steps for now! Gradually take the temp down to @70 if possible. If your fish are tolerant of salt, increase it .1% salinity gradually as well.
I thought for low temp to be affective against columinaris it has to be below 60°f? Not arguing or trying to start one just curious :)
 
One of my cichlids is holding, if i can save the fry what are their chances of survival?
 
One of my cichlids is holding, if i can save the fry what are their chances of survival?

Ikes...that is not good news. Fry are very susceptible to everything as their immune systems are not fully developed. All you can do is hope for the best.

@Bichir Bro, ideal temp ranges for columnaris bacterial growth are 25-30C (76-86f). The faster the bacteria grows, the more deadly it is. The more 'ideal' the temps are, the more virulent it becomes. Two fish exposed to the same bacterium but at different temps will have very different outcomes. A fish in 40f (or less) water will not be affected but a fish in 80f will die.

Generally, its recommended to only drop temps down to @75f but if the temps can be dropped further, it will help to slow the growth at a greater rate. Certain strains of columnaris bacteria actually thrive in temps in the 50's and are an issue for pond owners. Temps actually have to drop below 5C (40f) to kill the bacteria and these temp ranges will kill tropical fish (and nitrifying bacteria).

Three other things affecting columnaris are ph, dissolved organics and salinity. The bacteria thrives in hard, alkaline water but can not survive in ph levels of 6 or less. Studies have shown high levels of dissolved organics actually increase its virulence (simplified version). Last, salinity is important as well. Some studies have shown that by increasing the salinity levels to .3% have cured the infection with no other meds when its in its early stages. Its a strictly fw bacteria and can not survive in sw.

Columnaris disease in fish: a review with emphasis on bacterium-host interactions


Molliwop, start doing lots of big water changes and increase the salinity to .1% (@1tsp/g) to start. If your fish can handle higher salinities for a short term, increase it further to .3%. For right now, you can also try giving your fish a dip in either methylene blue or potassium permanganate to stem the infection.
 
Some good(ish) news.. it seems to be dying back. Their mouths seem to be less white and some of the females mouths are normal colour.

Worried though as medication finishes tomorrow afternoon with a large water changenand carbon. Should i treat again with salt and myxazin again in afew days until my meds arrive?
 
Some good(ish) news.. it seems to be dying back. Their mouths seem to be less white and some of the females mouths are normal colour.

Worried though as medication finishes tomorrow afternoon with a large water changenand carbon. Should i treat again with salt and myxazin again in afew days until my meds arrive?

Just do a wc, maintain the salt and continue treating with what you have. When your meds arrive, you then can do more wcs, run new carbon and switch meds. Good luck!
 
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