My rams and tetras have ich!HELP!
- Thread starter emerald76
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Aces1980
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Methane ick will cause blue but when you have cured fish you reput carbon in it absorbs the blue and the rest actually will fade. The salt trick works but slowly and if it's already spreading to others it's a way to slow it that way so blue methane stuff will work faster without you losing fish cause salt cure is slow and some fish the salt is not good
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treemanone2003
Aquarium Advice Addict
Op is doing this with heat only and no meds. It's also not in a QT or HT so adding the meth blue will soak into the silicone forever.
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sinibotia
Aquarium Advice Addict
Have meds on hand as a last resort. I used the heat treatment on almost the exact same stock of fish that you have just a week ago and it took care of the problem in days. No meds needed unless it gets too far gone before the heat takes its toll, or you have a heat resistant strain, which is unlikely.
Aces1980
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I did it my 120 and got no blue stains on anything not even on hoses within 2 days it was gone. Cause if it's already spreading you mine as well treat all just incase. Don't get me wrong salt works but it's slow and if others are getting it you don't want to wait to long were it starts turning bad. But your tank I'm just say my experience friend good luck hope all turn out ok
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Well as I said above most of the cysts have gone from the fish. I did a water change with gravel vac as soon as I saw this to pull as much of the reproducing cyst stage as possible. The fish seem a little stressed at 86 but I hear that if I wait a day and go up to 88 for a few hours the free swimming stage will die very quickly. I had my dad pick up an air pump and diffusers too.
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aqua_holic
Aquarium Advice FINatic
The treatment is a little stressful, but then so are meds and the infestation. Though the spots are disappearing, it's important to keep the heat up after they are gone. Standard is 2 weeks though I doubt 14 days are really necessary. I haven't found the need to not follow through for the whole duration though - it's just a few more days.
Natrualbeauty22
Aquarium Advice Activist
Emerald I hope you can get it under control soon. I just wanted to let you know I had a good experience with the meds. The blue does go away once you put the carbon back in. I can attest that the my silicone was not stained permanently. It all clears up pretty fast. Good luck friend!
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Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
Grasshopper - I know your next investment (aside from the new heater) is going to be a quarantine tank and associated equipment 
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Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
It's a QT. You could run it in a closet. I figure you don't want to go through this again. Plus, you'll still be able to buy fish; they'd hang out in QT for a while though.
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treemanone2003
Aquarium Advice Addict
So are these twenty tanks in use or just laying around ? And if you're using them, what's in them ?
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treemanone2003
Aquarium Advice Addict
Ah.... Keeping them in a safe place till you can move out and set up as many as you want, lol ?
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Linwood
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I've treated with heat alone now twice. Do keep it over 86 for two full weeks just in case. Fish can have ich without it being visible (in their gills). Two weeks may be longer than needed, but it is so very easy to quit too early and then have to start over.
If the temperature spent any time under 86, start all over.
Be sure your thermostat is accurate; I always go to 88 or 89 just to be sure, as there may be parts of the tank cooler than others.
Vacuuming with the heat treatment has negligible impact. While you may be removing some tomont (reproducing form in the substrate) you cannot possibly get them all, and it only takes one to start it all over. The main recommendation for vacuuming is when using medicines since the medicines are less effective with high organic compounds in the tank - vacuuming removes the organics and makes medicines more effective. It does little for heat or heat + salt treatment.
Don't mix up temperatures. Heat only or heat + salt - over 86 degrees. Medicine - warm, like 82. Do not get these backwards. Doing heat treatment but not getting over 86 is about the worst you can do, as it speeds the lifecycle without killing the parasite.
My two courses with heat were non-events - fish and plants and snails and shrimp were perfectly happy, a bit more hungry than usual.
If the temperature spent any time under 86, start all over.
Be sure your thermostat is accurate; I always go to 88 or 89 just to be sure, as there may be parts of the tank cooler than others.
Vacuuming with the heat treatment has negligible impact. While you may be removing some tomont (reproducing form in the substrate) you cannot possibly get them all, and it only takes one to start it all over. The main recommendation for vacuuming is when using medicines since the medicines are less effective with high organic compounds in the tank - vacuuming removes the organics and makes medicines more effective. It does little for heat or heat + salt treatment.
Don't mix up temperatures. Heat only or heat + salt - over 86 degrees. Medicine - warm, like 82. Do not get these backwards. Doing heat treatment but not getting over 86 is about the worst you can do, as it speeds the lifecycle without killing the parasite.
My two courses with heat were non-events - fish and plants and snails and shrimp were perfectly happy, a bit more hungry than usual.
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