New 55 Gallon Log

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SpeedEuphoria

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
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Hey just got a 55G for free, with a stand. It used to be SW and has been sitting in garage for awhile. So its dirty and currently I'm filling it in the driveway to make sure it holds water OK and doesnt want to leak all over my floor.

The stand needs some work but I'm happy and couldn't beat the price.

My canister filter gets here tomorrow, trying my luck with a new Fluval 304. I'm still looking around but may just go to Lowes and get stuff to finish and set it up.


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Well crap, just noticed that the top plastic trim near the center brace is cracked. I may call this place and ask about it.
http://glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=43
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I know the other tank I could have gotten, the center brace was cracked and not functional anylonger. I may just find some epoxy and patch it together.
 
Well I filled it up and when it was close to the top the top plastic brace snapped, came off on one side, then there was a solid 1"+ gap between it and that side of the tank. So I guess it does do something, lol. So I drained water back out and as soon as it got to 1/2 full, the brace was touching the side again. It did not leak at all like that but I figure I better fix it up as there are lots of cracks. I'm just not sure if its just silicone sealant holding that plastic trim on or some kind of glue?
 
any plans for the tank yet? planted? fish?

Yeah I'm going planted lower tech on a budget, lol. Trying to start with ~80w , then maybe ODNO or add another bulb and make a hood, then add some CO2.

Well I'm going to get some substrate tomorrow, either Schultz Aquatic Soil or Pool Filter Sand. Going to pick up a 4ft shop light to play with, hopefully I can find some decent T8 bulbs, I know they have 36" T12 that are OK(last time I was there). Have to get something for a better reflector, think I can work with roof flashing. Some epoxy or something that is fish safe to glue all the cracked plastic. New handle and hinges for the stand.

I'm going to put some RCS in there to start and let them build a solid population. As far as fish I have no idea yet, too many to choose from, but the LFS narrows it down as they dont have a whole lot and thats where I plan on getting them.
 
Congrats on the new tank. Can't help you with the crack, though. However, 55g tanks are extremely common and it may be easier just to find a cheap one somewhere used.
 
Yes congrats, I too can't help you with the cracks. You could try siliconing them and seeing if that works after a couple of days of dry time! The price is sure right.
 
Wow....sure wish I could find something like that for ..... FREE.....with the stand even. That is fantastic! Congrats Matt!
 
Congrats on the tank.

I was just wandering i have been seeing this other places when talking about lighting. What does T5 or T8 or T12 mean is that reffering to the size of light bulb. TIA
 
What does T5 or T8 or T12 mean is that reffering to the size of light bulb. TIA

These examples are for a 48" bulb:T12 is a normal shoplight bulb its 1.5" diameter and uses 40watts. T8 is 1" diameter and uses 32watt. T5 is 5/8" IIRC and is harder to find at home improvement stores. The smaller the diameter the bulb the less light lost on the back side do to restrike(light bouncing off the reflector). So even though they use less watts they are more efficient so comparable to the T12watts as far as the WPG rule.



So I went shopping today and got some T8 6500K bulbs and they did not work in my shoplight. SO I bought the expensive shoplight that is wider and has an actual reflector.

I also got some Schultz Aquatic soil on clearance, bought the last 4 bags. I went to rinse it and its redish in color, I thought it was supposed to be grey?, Oh well its going in for now.

I'm going to try super glue gel on the plastic, let it dry and fill it back up outside to see if it holds up. I found some epoxy putty stuff that said it was for plumbing and matched the pics and description of the aquarium safe stuff that I saw online, its just that it would make a mess I'm sure. So I guess thats my next option at least for some of it if the super glue fails.

I used to work with plastic injection molding for 5 yrs so I know that heat can be used to bond plastic, as we had a process that used friction and force to attach plastic to plastic, and it held well. It was for automotive radiator applications for Toyota and others
 
OK I used super glue gel on all the cracks in the plastic around the tank.

Took the shelf out of the stand as it was about to fall out. I reattached it and ran liquid nails around the stand all over on the inside seems. Also put a new handle and hinges on the stand as they were corroded.

I let that stuff dry for a couple hours, put the tank back on and filled it up in the driveway. At the 3/4 way full mark I heard a slight creak, so I looked around and saw one small crack opened up near the center brace(not the side that was completely unattached before, that side held strong, the other side a crack separating the brace lengthwise, its in the 3rd pic where it separated more this time). I continued to fill it up to the top and no other issues. I'm letting it sit overnight outside and prob all day tomorrow as long as its not going to rain.

I know my driveway is not level and the stand is not level in the driveway so I figure its a torture test to make sure it holds up.

If all goes well I'll drain it and clean it more, and move to the basement and make sure its level. I plan to go over it again with the super glue gel on the plastic trim.

Going to hang the light tomorrow, ect.. Then I'll fill it and hook up the filter(got the Fluval 304 today). I'm just waiting on a heater since I just made an order for stuff from "that pet place" since they had the best deal on everything I was looking for in one order.
 
Heres a pic with water in it after the 1st round of super glue repair
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I think I'm going to use some of the "plumbing" epoxy that i saw at Menards on the underside of the brace just for extra assurance. I'm pretty confident that it would be OK as is(well at least for a short while).

Heres 2 bags of Schultz that I rinsed, waiting to go in.
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So I got it moved to its final resting place downstairs, leveled it and hooked up the light. I have glass tops coming and since the fixture is slightly longer than the tank I'm going to rest it on the tank, I'll add some chains to the light mostly so I can easily raise the light up out of the way for maintenance.
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The stuff I ordered should be here Tuesday, except for the backorder.

On this canister filter(Fluval 304) I was doing reading on media placement and I think the polyester batting should go in the top tray, then the ceramic rings in the 2nd and some bioballs(on backorder:() in the lowest. I think I will just leave the bottom tray empty till the bioballs show up, then put them in. Does this sound right or OK?

I need to clean it a little more, then was thinking about adding the substrate and some water, but I want to put a background on it 1st. I was going to leave it a little low till I can get that epoxy stuff to finalize the repair. Would it be Ok to hook up the filter and get it running with 1/2 the water?
 
Just keep an eye on that crack for a while.

For your filter media, I recommend a sponge at the bottom to catch the larger debris and keep it from getting through. Large debris will clog up the floss very quickly.
 
I know my 305 says you shouldn't use the filter when the water level is under 7inchs from the top. So just make sure your around there or read the directions : ) I do not remember my current order of filtering media but i can open it up and see how it comes sense everything is in there and i have not used it yet. As for the cracks, i just got a 55gallon tank for 200 with stand, the stand is for a 75gallon tank and it had a crack in the top, i just used some spray adhesive stuff we had at home and sanded it down then put cocking over it to seal it. seems to be holding fine.
 
My filter came with 3 empty baskets(came with rings and carbon). There is a large coarse foam panel that is down the side on the inlet side. Then it goes back up through the baskets to the pump. I found a hagen site and a couple other forums where people say to use the floss media at the end or top. So I left the bottom basket empty for now and put the ceramic rings in the 2nd basket, then poly floss in the top. I hooked it all up(not following directions exactly since it said "do not fill the canister w/ water" but I did anyway so i wouldn't have to use the silly pump to fill it. I got it primed and turned it on and it works good. I only ran it for 10mins or so since the water is only 1/2 full.

I'm going to get that epoxy putty to put under the middle brace. Also going to get a new electronic 4 bulb ballast so I can 2x ONDO the light(mounting the ballast on top). I'm going to wait a short while on the ONDO project I think as seems I may have an OK lighting where I could put some Ferns and moss in there and start to grow.

According to this site(which is logical to me, except for the depth part and no mention of the ballast factor)
New Lights?

My current lighting of 62w T8(each bulb says 2850 lumens on it) that I should be just below moderate light as is. I notice that no one talks about ballasts as thats what actually regulates the power to the bulbs. I found specs on my current fixture and it shows a 95% ballast factor(which is better than the .87 or .77 of normal ballasts) so the 5700 total lumens is brought down by that to 5415 lumens delivered.

With a 2x ONDO I see a couple places say its a 50% increase in watts/lumens. So that would be ~med high light or 96watts(8550 lumens x the ballast factor of whatever ballast I get). That page says it assumes average reflectors, which is what I would agree I have in this light but doesn't mention the ballast factor. The light is going to rest directly on the tank.

Does that make sense to the experienced planted tank'ers?

Oh I also found that the company that makes the fixture(shoplight) that I got, americanflourescent.com has some nice 4x48" bulb fixtures(T8 or T5 54w) that are 12"wide and have painted reflectors like mine. I'm going to check on the pricing.

Anyway so far I have 3 10lb bags of the Schultz in there and I have a solid 2" depth. It sure looks like a lot. Should I add the last bag? I was thinking about using it for my 10G, but I see people talking about 4" of substrate, that seems like a ton, lol.

Oh yeah as far as fish, I have no clue, too many to choose from. I need to go to the LFS tomorrow and see what they have.
 
Most people aim for about 3" of substrate, less in the front and more in the back. With 2" you should be okay, but may have troubles with larger background plants having sufficient rooting space.
 
Most people aim for about 3" of substrate, less in the front and more in the back. With 2" you should be okay, but may have troubles with larger background plants having sufficient rooting space.

Well thats the thing, so now I have 2" all over level. If I slope it then the front will be ~1" and the back 3" so that sounds OK to me. It sure looks like enough.

I tried one substrate calculator online and it said ~100lbs for most, then 60lbs for one brand(eco complete maybe?). That why I'm wondering here with 30lbs in and looking OK
 
Ok new pic, I added the last bag of Schultz, did the final patch, filled it all the way up and turned the pump on.

Water is cloudy
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Well this was the 1st lazy attempt of something. I had a couple of cool things but overall didnt like it.
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Notice the tunnel in this one below the dirftwood(y)

I already changed it and added more plants from my 10G and like it better but its cloudy so I'll post pics later, I still have 1 tunnel under the driftwood, then 2 caves on the sides that are dead ends to the glass so you can see into the tunnels from the sides of the tank;).

I'm having lots of hiding/spawning spots as seems most of the fish I have been looking at like caves. For now I just have 1 male endler in there(the largest feisty/crazy one, lol).
 
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