Parameter test questions

[BettaGal]

I have a thrown together test kit as the full one was really expensive when I went. My nitrites are fine after my water change last night. The ammonia test strip still read harmful after the water change though. Is my strip lying to me, or are my ammonia levels really not moving with water changes? I have pH, ammonia, and nitrite test kits. Do I NEED to get a nitrate kit too? My filter is still cycling as it's a week and a half used in the tank.

 

[Sambo7475]

I can't recommend the test strips at all, I tried them, but got different readings every time I used them, even within a couple of minutes of each other. I use API's freshwater master test kit (19.99) on amazon the other day. As far as nitrates, yes I would measure them as well, it's helpful to know how your nitrates are doing, I use it to determine what % water change to do. Just my 2 cents.

 

[DavidAl]

Hi Bettagal,

As you mentioned, your tank is still cycling. In about another week you should start seeing the nitrites climb, and soon after that the ammonia will begin to drop. The end result should be 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites with nitrate being the byproduct of the nitrification cycle.

I also do not recommend the test strips. The liquid reagents are more accurate, IMO. A nitrate kit is invaluable. High nitrates will stress fish, some more than others, and will contribute to algae. There are two ways to get rid of it: water changes and/or live plants. Denitrification under anaerobic conditions will also work, but that's another topic.

David

 

[BettaGal]

Then I will have to get a nitrate test kit and an ammonia test kit when I go to replace the gourami's beloved plant. It's pretty much dead. He tends to that thing for hours, so I'm not taking it out until I got the new one ready to plant. He's odd. I found it hard to believe my ammonia didn't go down at all after a 50% water change. Now I know why. They lied to me.

 

[DavidAl]

Check to see if you have ammonia in your tap water.

David

 

[BettaGal]

I got an ammonia test kit and a nitrate test kit. What is the okay range for parameters during cycling? I know ideal is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and I think it was 20 nitrate, but there has to be some give in those numbers, or else hourly water changes would be in order.

 

[DavidAl]

What is the okay range for parameters during cycling?

I'm assuming this is a fish-in cycle; keep ammonia below .25 and nitrite below .50. If your fish do well with aquarium salt, add 1tsp per 10 gallons.

David

 

[BettaGal]

I have never used aquarium salt. I got a flame dwarf gourami, three albino Cory cats, a gold inca snail, and two nerite snails, one olive and one tiger. And I have to do a water change, maybe two, since my test kit says my ammonia is at 4. I haven't done nitrites yet, but I think ammonia says a change is required. Maybe just a little.

 

[BettaGal]

After an approximately 50% water change my levels are: ammonia - 2; pH - 7.6; nitrite - .3; nitrate - 0. I'll do another one soon. I'm still getting the evil stare from my dwarf gourami Torch because I touched his baby. He tried to bite the gravel vacuum. The little brat.

 

[Sambo7475]

I would do 2 more 50% water changes, at least 8 hours apart to get my ammonia level down to 0.5 ppm. The 8 hours gives time for the water to equilibrate before stressing your fish again. I've seen some advice saying to allow 12 hours or more between changes, but I did 8 and didn't lose any fish to ammonia. You're on your way to a cycled tank, let us know what your nitrite levels are. Here is a graphic I found helpful:
File:Cycling graph.png - The Free Freshwater and Saltwater Aquarium Encyclopedia Anyone Can Edit - The Aquarium Wiki

 

[BettaGal]

It says in the previous messages nitrites were .3 after my water change. I did a second one last night and once I get all my class stuff I'll test again to see if they're better. Now, last night I noticed my gourami having a fit of rubbing against stuff. Mostly the plants and walls. He would rub against them really fast. He hasn't done it in since that fit. Is this because my ammonia level was so high and will stop once they're down below .25, or should I be treating for parasites I can't see?

 

[Sambo7475]

Sorry for the confusion, I meant after the pwc's. My serpae tetras would do the rubbing thing when my tank was in cycle, usually when my ammonia was high. I've read that the ammonia can cause mouth and gill irritation, and that in turn can lead to the rubbing. Haven't seen any parasites or the like, and all 12 appear to be still really healthy a month after that, so I assume it was due to the ammonia.

 

[BettaGal]

Alright. That's encouraging. No parasites. Just this lovely ammonia spike I gotta get under control. I will do another water change after I shower since last night my suitemates decided to hog it. I will measure all immediately after and post them. Thanks for all the help. It's nice having friendly people that know what they're doing willing to lend a hand.

 

[BettaGal]

After this water change, the levels are: ammonia - 1 ppm; nitrite - <.3 ppm; nitrate - 0 ppm. The pH has always been 7.6, so I'm not measuring it this time. This would be water change number 3. I'm guessing number 4 will be in order. This would be much easier with a python.

 

[BettaGal]

Are my bigger Cory cats going to the top and halfway crossing the tank with their heads above the water because of the now somewhat elevated ammonia, or are they doing that because they're weird and wanna annoy me with the creepy noise they make?