pH below 6.0 due to heat?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

sobersteve323

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
474
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
My tank is being treated for ick at a temp of ~86 degrees. The pH in the tank is showing 6.0 on my API test kit (it might be even lower since that's the lowest reading). Water from my tap (left out over night) is reading 7.8.

Is the low pH in my tank due to the temperature? Should I be using crushed coral to raise it?

Thanks.
 
I agree, do a pwc to get the PH back up, when is the last time you did a water change? Usually a weekly water change will replenish the nutrients etc used up in a tank and will restore the PH and buffers, but if your tank is dropping PH fast regardless of the weekly pwc then you may need to do more to keep the fish safe since fast changes in PH can be harmful to them (I'm assuming it has fish in it...?).

Eco23 is good with PH information, you might want to send him a PM and ask for his advice, although he's also on the boards a lot, he may see this thread and chime in.
 
Been doing daily 20% PWC. I did a little research online and it does appear higher temp can lower pH.

Still not sure if I should try to raise the pH temporarily for the last few days of the treatment though
 
I've been following the thread myself to see if anyone had expertise. I know it has something to do with hydrogen ions...but I never thought the fluctuations would be extreme. What was the pH value in the tank before starting treatment? What is the value from the tap? Have you left a glass of tap water sitting out for 24 hours and tested it after that time? I know the temp can have some degree of effect...my personal guess would be that it's not very dramatic (I could be wrong...I've just never heard of or experienced it).
 
eco23 said:
I've been following the thread myself to see if anyone had expertise. I know it has something to do with hydrogen ions...but I never thought the fluctuations would be extreme. What was the pH value in the tank before starting treatment? What is the value from the tap? Have you left a glass of tap water sitting out for 24 hours and tested it after that time? I know the temp can have some degree of effect...my personal guess would be that it's not very dramatic (I could be wrong...I've just never heard of or experienced it).

Tap is 7.8 sitting out all night and tank was always close to that. I.haven't actually checked the tank pH in a very long time since there weren't ever any changes in there. Just happened to check the pH on a whim since I was curious about my water parameters while doing the treatment.

I will do a 20% PWC then by the next evening ill check again before PWC and the pH will still be low :/
 
Yes the higher temperatures can have effect on the PH levels but it will be measureable but minimal and will not swing from 7.5-6.0 or below, even with softer water that with lower KH levels that lack the ability to buffer should not swing this drasticlly.
 
HUKIT said:
Yes the higher temperatures can have effect on the PH levels but it will be measureable but minimal and will not swing from 7.5-6.0 or below, even with softer water that with lower KH levels that lack the ability to buffer should not swing this drasticlly.

Would adding crushed coral make a difference? At least until the end of the treatment when I can retest at normal temps?
 
I agree with HUKIT 100%. What is your normal pwc routine? How often and how large do you do them? A good pwc schedule can solve most alkalinity problems, but if there's drastic fluctuations or swings despite them, it's time to look into buffering it. I'd also be nervous about altering the water chemistry during treatment.
 
eco23 said:
I agree with HUKIT 100%. What is your normal pwc routine? How often and how large do you do them? A good pwc schedule can solve most alkalinity problems, but if there's drastic fluctuations or swings despite them, it's time to look into buffering it. I'd also be nervous about altering the water chemistry during treatment.

Normally 25% once a week but I've been doing around 20% daily while treating for ich. It's a 36 gallon tank and my goal is to vacuum all the substrate which results in about 7 gallons removed each change while doing the treatment.
 
It does seem like buffering it with a small mesh bag of crushed coral in the filter is a good idea. I agree though that as long as the fish seem to be doing okay right now, I'd probably wait until their treatment is over.
 
eco23 said:
It does seem like buffering it with a small mesh bag of crushed coral in the filter is a good idea. I agree though that as long as the fish seem to be doing okay right now, I'd probably wait until their treatment is over.

I've never used coral before. In "general" how much do you dose at a time? Is it teaspoons/table spoons/cups/etc?
 
I have a small handful of it in a mesh bag in my 46 gallon. The key is to add it slowly. Putting in too much at once can fairly drastically raise the pH and kH. I'd put a couple tablespoons in a mesh bag, let it run for a while, test, and slowly add more over the course of a week until you find the proper amount where it will hold the pH steady at the same value of your tap water.
 
How old is your test kit? W/C is always good. Baking soda will bring it up. Not to much not to fast.
 
So I've been keeping up on the PWCs and even did a 80% one. PH sill dropped back down to 6 or lower the next day. I even took all ornaments out of the tank just in case.

I was thinking back and I did change the gravel earlier this year to an all black top fin one. I was at petsmart the other day and saw on the bag that "it might alter pH" anyone think that this might be the reason? The gravel is the only thing in there right now and my second tank with sand is a constant 7.4 so I don't think its the water.
 
Dealing with Ph, if you dont add ammo lock or any buffer that add acid an base, the ph is only related to KH, so meaure the KH of tap and on your tank.

Is it aqueduc water or well water?

Is your town use base or acid in water?

Normally a water who drop PH that fast is a water full of OH- but with no HCO3 or CO3 to buff.

How many fish in there? What species? What size? Crush corals is not the solution for every species, and baking soda add lots of sodium in water so the use depend on species!!

The cycle bacteria use KH to work at every stage of it. The plant use Kh to, do you have plant?

Do you use co2?

Do you use volcanic rocks?? Or a rich plant substrat overload with peat??

Do you use peat or carbon??

Pay attention to corals if you have species that hate high GH. If you change lot of water its not bad but dont forget as the kh goes down with cycle and plant, the corals release only when ph drop under a certain level because thats the H+ ion that help release the kH an Gh at the same time. The bug if you dont do pwC is that the kh drop then the corals release again and again but the GH never go down so the Kh stay stable but Gh can go very high.

Do you use CO2??

Dealing with PH is very hard spme timea as the balance HCO2-PH-KH(HCO3-CO3)
is very sensitive and complexe.

For sure with Ph problem dont waste your time testing Ph, test KH and ask you town water treatment on what they put in water!

Sorry its long but dealing with PH is like that!
I wait to you answer to help with your case!
 
Test everything in the tank with pH up, if bubble yea its tje problem. Same test use to find good rocks for african cichlid, but with Ph up instead of pH down!

Test even thing in you filter just in case!
 
Back
Top Bottom