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ShannonFaas

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
40
Location
Michigan
Has anyone had any experience with this chemical? I have been treating my tank with garlic and water changes every couple days, I had a mass break out of ich. My LFS reccommended this because the garlic and warmer temps aren't working. I treated it last night and hoped to see some improvements, but really didn't see any. On the bottle it says a single treatment lasting 5-7 days is sufficient. I am assuming that I need to put a treatment in every day for 5-7 days...I am not much into using chemicals on my fish, so it is confusing.

Thanks!
Shannon
 
Shannon,

Mike has posted a series of articles that he and I both have shown you a couple times now. You've gotten some good advice here regarding ich, and links to some of the best articles out there. Warmer temps aren't working because... well... it doesn't work. Read the articles and they'll tell you why. Seems like you're looking to try everything except what folks here have suggested.

I'm not personally familiar with PraziPro, but I *think* it's primarily a dewormer. Perhaps Innovator will wander across this thread and educate us! But I don't think it works on ich... that's why you're not seeing results.
 
PraziPro is a liquid concentrate of praziquantel (Droncit), an agent used to treat teleosts for cestodes and monogeneans. In other words, it is indeed a de-wormer. It will not combat cryptocaryon (ich), but it is always wise to de-worm your animals anyways. If you are not willing to spend the money on Chloroquine, the next best solution is hyposalinity (IMO) to eliminate ich followed by copper (Cupramine).
 
Kurt,

I am surprised at your response...I did respond in the other forum on the temp thing...I cut it back, one of my fish looks like it has a secondary infection that someone reccommended prazipro for...and also we have a 55 gallon QT comming tomorrow...I have been taking your advise and not sure why you think I haven't. I just posted something new because there is a new question I had. I did read all the articles and appreciate them. My Coral Beauty has a powdery look to it, and its left eye is cloudy. My local Fish guy said to use prazipro..the instructions on the bottle were very vague and I wanted to know if anyone knew anything about it before I went ahead and screwed something up. My LFS doesn't open til noon and I was hoping to get a response before then if needed. I had a high nitrate build up and let the LFS run with changing my tank around. Now we have more issues building up. These guys are good, but not open 24 hrs like this forum...and now I feel that I probably shouldn't use this either. We have only been at this for a couple years, and yes I understand we are new, but being chided like a child doesn't help. I have been taking all your advise....lower temps....new QT tank...etc...
 
PraziPro is a liquid concentrate of praziquantel (Droncit), an agent used to treat teleosts for cestodes and monogeneans. In other words, it is indeed a de-wormer. It will not combat cryptocaryon (ich), but it is always wise to de-worm your animals anyways. If you are not willing to spend the money on Chloroquine, the next best solution is hyposalinity (IMO) to eliminate ich followed by copper (Cupramine).


This is exactly what we are doing, will have the tank here tomorrow to start...thank you for your information and expertise.
 
You are welcome and remember that medications should only be used in a quarantine tank, not your main tank. Happy dosing :)
 
Kurt,

I am surprised at your response......but being chided like a child doesn't help. I have been taking all your advise....lower temps....new QT tank...etc...

Shannon,

Sorry you took my posting as treating you like a child, but please go back and reread your original post - I think you'll see why I responded the way I did...

Has anyone had any experience with this chemical? I have been treating my tank with garlic and water changes every couple days, I had a mass break out of ich. My LFS reccommended this because the garlic and warmer temps aren't working. I treated it last night and hoped to see some improvements, but really didn't see any.

Maybe my reading comprehension is off, but it sure sounds like you're saying you're treating your tank with PraziPro for the ich. And you're doing that because warmer temps aren't working and your fish store recommended it.

Nowhere do I see any mention of secondary infection. Nowhere do I see any mention of gearing up to treat the ich by a method known to kill the stuff. I just see repeated mention of heat treatment. We can only offer advice here based on the words typed.

Sorry I made you feel like you shouldn't use this forum. I'd hate for you to feel like you shouldn't use this forum, so rest assured... you won't be hearing from me again! Good luck with everything.
 
Kurt,

If you read my last post on the temp issue, you can see that I stated with the thermometers off....it is at 78...that is the temp I usually run at and also am at again. It was because of the web sites that you and Mike sent, that I did get the 55g QT going.

Mike, the 55g QT is up and running with prazipro, copper and hyposalinity. the fish made the transition well. The blue hippo is being her usual drama queen...but did end up eating dinner fine. Not exactly sure if we will skate without any casualties because since yesterday our puffer has been very sick. We will see how that goes.

The main tank is doing great!! In fact we moved some live rock around and low and behold we have a new bunch of brittle stars nestled in one of the rocks. Best we can count is 6 or more. We do have a brittle named Bully...I wasn't sure they could asexually reproduce...(well maybe the live rock already contained them but they look like our star) They decided tonight after the QT was set up that it was a good time to come out and say hello. I am posting pictures to my profile. The main tank looks different now with the rock moved and re-arranged. Thanks for your help.
 
OK... going to go back on my word about not hearing from me...

But you don't want to do both copper AND hyposalinity. One or the other. Not both. If you use copper with hypo, you will more than likely kill the fish because it is not meant to be used at that low of salinity.
 
It sounds like you introduced the fish directly into the hypo environment without bringing it down over time? I'd keep a close watch. With that environment shock and the copper.. What's your hypo sg at?
 
Capt, we drip lined them for about an hour and a half to aclimate them to the QT, hypo is at 1.014, they seemed to handle the transition well but our 3 sickest fish did die. Our puffer was hanging on in the main tank for 3 days, but finally went after being in the QT 2 days. Our Blue hippo was our sickest one and went south the next day, we finally pulled her out when we tested and got an ammonia spike at 1.0, the Coral beauty was covered in ich and something else that was attackign its eyes, that one died first. Again that one was fine - even better than the blue hippo the first day. The puffer died 3rd. Still we have a sail fin, a silver and blue angel, 2 clowns, and a blue damsel. They all seem to be doing ok, but no one really is eating well. Any suggestions?
 
IF your fish are still on a downward spiral I would do the following: Since the fish are in qt already, which they should have been from the start *playfully scolding you* XD keep up the hyposalinity treatment, but nix the copper. In a separate vessel, I prefer a 5g bucket, make a copper bath solution and dip the remaining fish. I would drain and scrub the tank, refilling with fresh sw at the appropriate salinity current to your current readings.

To me it just sounds as if your fish or on their deathbed, but perhaps I am reading your words differently than intended. The above solution is intended to hit the ich hard and fast...if your fish cannot survive the dip, they more than likely wouldn't have survived anyways. As far as not eating, copper and many other medications have this effect so try live brine shrimp for now...
 
Thanks for the scolding "dad"...lol. I could have used that awhile ago...

The remaining fist really seem to be doing ok...of course the damsel is the hardiest and we expect him to sail through this. The clowns are also doing fabulous. The Sail fin and the angel also look great at this time. The water does look a bit cloudy and had to treat for amonia, but the rest of the fist have no signs of ich. We are planning to keep them in QT for 6 weeks. We will do a 14 gallon water change every week starting tomorrow. I won't be replacing the copper but will keep the hyposalinity....does this sound ok? These fish have been so stressed that I would hate to put them in a tank with such fresh salt. I figure that each week would bring the copper down about 25%, but we also did a quick 7 gallon change without adding copper. So it is under the .2 that we were told to do. I was not told to get a copper test kit, so I will get one tomorrow...hmmm gonna need a second job here to keep up with my fish..lol. How do I clear the water in the QT, we have 2 sponge filter bubblers and an aquaclear 50 filter on the back minus the carbon.
 
If they are seemingly on the mend then, as you said, either keep the hypo. treatment or continue copper and I would perform 50% water changes daily or at least every other day. If you add carbon it will help reduce the copper content along with a poly-filter if you prefer the hypo. route.
 
Thanks for your help! Will start the water changes tomorrow...we buy the salt from our LFS. Have a poly filter going on the back, will add the carbon portion to it. I am hoping the water changes will help with the cloudy appearance to the water...you have been a huge help!!
 
Hey Inn...I was looking at my main tank today and saw something growing on the back of my live rock...it looks like a green see through cluster of ob long eggs, maybe 4mm - 6mm long...any ideas?
 
What are these???

26663-albums783-picture5384.jpg
 
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Yes, that is a form of Valonia sp., or bubble algae. They can be quite beautiful, but tend to be a menace if allowed to overgrow a tank. You can siphon them out during a water change or if you have to dislodge them, make sure you have a siphon over the area at the same time since "bursting their bubble" usually just causes more to form down the road.
 
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