Reef controller questions

[acolotto]

Hey guys

So I have had saltwater tank for a year now and I'm just hearing about reef controllers such as the neptune apex. I'm just wondering what these things are? What are they used for? Also would it be a good idea to invest in one? I just have a 55 gal reef system with no sump so I'm just curious and kind of pondering the idea of getting one

 

[acolotto]

Also In my tank I have 3 power heads, skimmer, hob filter, ub sterilizer, and water heater. I don't know if this makes a difference but thought id say it.

 

[cmor1701d]

There are two main competitors in the controller market, Neptune (makers of the Apex line) and Digital Aquatics (maker of the Reef Keeper line).

Basically you monitor a condition and based on that you turn an outlet on or off.

Both allow you to control your lights (on/off), pumps, heater(s), chiller, etc and can monitor temp, pH and other probes. By using a temperature probe the controller can be programmed to shut off the heater when the temperature reaches the high point you set, and turn on when the temperature drops below your set point. The same holds true for your chiller.

pH and SG probes can be added (pH and temp are usually included). You can control calcium reactors, add float switches and control auto top-off etc.

 

[KAhner]

Reef angel seems to be really nice too. With a great price tag.

 

[acolotto]

Thanks! But are they worth it? Should
I invest in one? I'm just wondering if I want to get on or not

 

[carey]

I got the reefkeeper for christmas and I love it. I use it for everything that plugs into a socket. My lights, skimmer, fuge light, auto top off, gfo reactor everything. lol I have it shut down the heater when it reaches my set mark and turns it back on after it drops to the level I indicated. I have the temp and ph probes. I also had it shutting down my ATO if the Ph got to a certain point since I was dosing Kalkwasser which raises Ph.
I also have my powerheads set up for random so it actually creates a wave in my tank. And at night it shuts down my powerheads. I was hoping to hook up a second tank to this controller as well. Lots of neat stuff you can do with it. Just have to NEED things done.

If you just have simple needs then you could get a reefkeeper Lite which is cheaper and is a bit limited as far as expansion.

 

[KAhner]

I think they r definately worth it. In the long run they can save you a lot of money. Most heaters suck. Eventually your gonna get one that sticks in the on position. That could wipe out your whole tank pretty quick. A good heater controller is around a hundred dollars, an auto top off about a hundred, a waver maker 50+ dollars. That's your money back right there. And there is a lot more you can do.

 

[cmor1701d]

@Carey, I hope you have RODI water for top off and not just Kalk. If dosing Kalk you really need another ATO for pure water, or are you currently lucky enough that top off and Kalk replenishment are in balance.

I have the Apex Jr. set up for CA and Alk additions at night, as well as controlling all power heads (like Carey's set up). The PS and Main pump are set for a feeding period to allow a bit of quite time with just the power heads runnings. I already had a separate ATO controller and heater controller so I have not added those to the Apex JR.

My fuge light has been running 24/7 but I might move that over and run opposite my light schedule. My LED unit has full control of my light schedule to a degree that could not be done by either of these controllers.

The Apex Jr had a built in web server so I can check everything from my iPhone when I'm at work. It will also send me text messages if anything goes out of whack. I might set up a flood detector to get notified is anything really goes bad. Then I can log on to my video camera and see what's going before rushing home from work.

Your first year it's best to concentrate on getting the maintenance down correctly and learning about your tank. After that one of these controllers adds a lot to the mix and just makes life easier.

 

[carey]

I was using a single reservoir with ro/di water mixed with kalk. The only thing I noticed was my ph was more stable but my calcium and alkalinity were still dropping daily....I've since stopped using the kalk and have been doing massive water changes every few days to keep the levels where they should be.

 

[KAhner]

Y not just continue with and supplement with two part? That's what I plan on doing.

 

[carey]

I'm going to move over to just two part dosing. I have the stuff just havent mixed it up in the jugs yet.

 

[cmor1701d]

Sorry for the thread hijack,, but Carey, grab a couple of BRS dosers and add them to your RK. Once you mix your solutions you need to test how many cc's you need to add/day to maintain. Then set the dosers to run for however many minutes each needs to equal that volume. Much easier than dosing Kalk (IMO).

 

[carey]

Yep, cmor, thats the plan. I didn't find the kalk to be all it was cracgked upt o be so 2 part is the way to go. I think I have the amounts needed for the calcium and alkalinity parts somewhere around here lol. My magnesium always seems to be good. I bought the BRS jugs with the dispensing pumps just havent actually mixed any yet.

According to BRS I can dose that amount in a single dose, leaving some time between Ca and ALk doses. Woudl that work as well or is there a reason why that isnt recommended?

Thanks as always!

 

[acolotto]

Ok so now why dose? Like should I start looking into this I only have two coral pieces right now but want to get a lot more

 

[cmor1701d]

@acolotto, No need for you to dose yet. NEVER DOSE ANYTHING YOU DON'T TEST FOR! (That's #2 on my reef tank rules). Until you find that Ca and Alk are dropping faster than a normal PWC can keep up with there is no need to dose either Ca or Alk. So test weekly especially as you add corals and they grow, and keep up with PWC's.


@Carey, I have those same jugs and pumps, but find that I need a daily dose. Much easier to have the doser pumps turn on for 20 - 30 minutes during the night and drop 1.1 mL per minute into the sump. Nice and slow so no coral gets an Alk or Coral mass dose. That can happen when you use the jug pumps. With the Alk you will notice a cloud spread out and cover a few corals before dissipating. Does it do any harm? I can't say for sure. But the slower dosing from dosers make me feel better about it.

I got some jug caps and drilled a hole just large enough for the tubing from the doser to fit through. One of them is such a tight fit that the jug compresses and caves in during the month. I just made the hole slightly larger last month.

 

[carey]

That sounds liek you have it all figured out. I kinda wish I could afford the dosing pumps now but it's just not viable right now. My membrane is going on my ro/di unit so thats first on my list for next weeks group buy. lol

Yep, I was thinking I would have to daily dose the 2 part, when I do dose I go really really slow when I add it to the sump. I do see that cloud your talking about and to be honest I think it's bad. I had two corals right in front of the return that either died or was close to dying. I lost my ora Hwakins SPS and my birdsnest is just about dead, looking a little better but it I don't have high hopes. I kinda attributed it to the kalk dosing. :-(

Is there any way I can use some other kind of pump to dispense the dosing liquid? I know it's probably not a good idea, but would aqualifter pumps work at all? The only thing is they do I think 1.5 gallons an hour.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks so much!

 

[Mpfaff77]

That sounds liek you have it all figured out. I kinda wish I could afford the dosing pumps now but it's just not viable right now. My membrane is going on my ro/di unit so thats first on my list for next weeks group buy. lol

Sorry off topic but quick question. How do you know if membrane bad???? Just time? Aprox 5 years is what I think I remember reading when got my RO DI.

 

[KAhner]

I think an aqualifter is 3.5gph with 0 head loss

 

[KAhner]

It's more like a year but depends on how much it's used. Use s tds meter to check.

 

[carey]

Thats how I know the membrane is going, I'm starting to read TDS AND phosphates. You should test your ro/di water every once in awhile if you can. A tds meter is really cheap too, I paid like $9 on ebay for one and you'll need it.