Sick puffer..Help!

[Balrog]

I know that this is late in the game and I hope that everything turned out well with your yellow tang . I have a golden puffer that is really sick and he has several white spots about his body. Earlier in the week, my lion fish died within a couple days of exhibiting similar symptoms. As some time has passed since your last post, I was wondering if the garlic juice was all the remedy that you needed??? The following is the status of my tank:

SG = 1.021
pH = 8.2
Nitrate = 10 PPM (per liquid test)/160 PPM??? (per strip test)
Nitrite = .5 PPM
Alkalinity = 300 PPM
Ammonia = .10

Everything seems to look right, aside from the abhorrent strip reading. However, the more I look at the white spots, the more I'm convinced that they are Ich. I introduced the recommended amount of medication (Rid Ich+) to the tank today. The puffer is breathing a bit better than he was yesterday, but he sinks to the bottom of the tank regularly (not charateristic of him) and curls his tail (in pain?) often. He ate well tonight, but again, he does not look good. I've read some posts that recommend a quaranteen... but I'm sure that the water is infected and the other fish will get it (if they don't already have it) regardless, if I don't medicate the water?

 

[steve-s]

I introduced the recommended amount of medication (Rid Ich+) to the tank today.

I am hoping that the tank in question is a FO tank. Rid Ich is a combination of formalin and malachite green which can be very toxic to invertebrates. If an FOWLR tank, there is a strong likelyhood the product will remain after treatment.

Please read the literature provided by the >>manufacturer<< as there are very specific needs and requirements whe using this product.

I would also urge that all new additions to the tank (if any) are properly >>quarantined<< in the future to prevent these problems from arising and the unfortunate need of treating the main tank again...

Cheers
Steve

 

[Balrog]

thanks ... it is a FO w/o live rock. I had been feeding the lion, wrasse and tusk feeder goldfish, which is where I think the desease(s) came from
I have since learned that was a stupid move. I'm going to go out and set up a quaranteen tank for the puffer today and pray that this works. Thanks for the help.

 

[steve-s]

I have split your post from the last thread to give you better answers to your specific questions.

As I noticed posted by Guage earlier and I completely missed , you have both ammonia and nitrite readings. These unto themselves will not cause parasitic infections but will stress the fishs' immune system so it has absolutely no resistance of it's own. I would strongly recommend that you do some additional water changes to bring that down. Even at this point, a proper QT tank would allow for a more effective treatment and you to fix the water quality issues with the main display tank.
Remember you must QT all the fish in the diplay tank wether infected or not. The tank itself will have the parasite and in time the other fish will become infected as well. Only by leaving the main tank fallow for 4 weeks can you eliminate the parasite properly.

Very often introducing FW fish will cause more intestinal problem than anything esle. They are a very poor nutritional source and should never be used for that reason alsone. Always feed marine carnivors, marine based meats. FW fish will not bring in disease with them as FW parasites cannot live in a SW environment. The osmotic increase would kill them almost immediately.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Balrog]

Thanks ... I'll be going to B&N to get some books on saltwater aquariums this afternoon, as I feel pretty inept at this point. One final question ... is there a relatively inexpensive way to set up a quarantine tank that will allow my fish to survive for 4 weeks? With a large puffer, large wrasse, large tusk, small trigger and a large juvenile emperor, I cannot imagine a 20-gal tank would suffice. Further, I read your recommendations on the quarantine setup and it appears to be only for short-term; for introducing a new fish ... I'm assuming I would need a protein skimmer, bio-balls, current source, etc. to keep them alive for an extended period?

 

[steve-s]

is there a relatively inexpensive way to set up a quarantine tank that will allow my fish to survive for 4 weeks? With a large puffer, large wrasse, large tusk, small trigger and a large juvenile emperor, I cannot imagine a 20-gal tank would suffice.

Best solution there would be to get larger bins if possible and also set up two and divide the fish. It's not really cost effective but will greatly decrease potential aggression and water quality issues. Those fish will definately have big problems if all are housed together in one QT.

Further, I read your recommendations on the quarantine setup and it appears to be only for short-term; for introducing a new fish ... I'm assuming I would need a protein skimmer, bio-balls, current source, etc. to keep them alive for an extended period?

No you do not need all the extra equipment and I also do not advise it. Short term or otherwise the QT set up is still pretty much the same. Just ensure there is enough PVC for the animals to properly hide and that they are large enough for the fish in question. Depending on the meds that are used to eventually rid the problem, the equip may not be able to be used on the main tank again. I would not risk it. The levels in the QT's can be easily controlled via water changes in the interim while the sponge filter accumulate some bacteria.

Be careful if using copper instead of the Rid Ick you have, the puffer may not react well with it. If available get Seachem's Cupramine as well as their corresponding Seachem copper test. They should be used hand in hand if that's the route you choose. With the fish you have >>hyposalinity is also a good option.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Balrog]

Steve - Thanks so much!!!! You guys are all awesome! I'll let you know how it turns out in a few weeks. Just one last Q, when you mention "bins," would disinfected, 30-gallon trash cans suffice??? If I can bare-bones this one, I'd prefer it. I have 2, 10 gallon tanks, but they would not be large enough for a 4-week stint.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

[steve-s]

Just one last Q, when you mention "bins," would disinfected, 30-gallon trash cans suffice???

Provided it is not metal and is disinfected very well, keep in mind that "wider" containers are better tan taller ones for easier gas exchange and ph. I would suggest a 10:1 water/bleach solution for cleaning. Make sure it is the common unscented household variety. Soak overnight, rinse several times very well. Fill and add some vinegar to neutralize, run with a PH for a few hours and then rinse again. Try filling it once ready with as much tank water as possible to ease the transition time of the fish. Adding a water conditioner like Seachem's Prime or other treatments that do not contain aloe would also be a plus.

Cheers
Steve